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I purchased these awesome wheels a few years ago used off of craigslist. They were light, vintage appropriate, and very cool. They are Gemballa Competition Course SL 2-piece rims. Manufactured by Speedline, Forged barrels, and faceplate, titanium screws. (Front: 18"x8" ET52 - 22lbs / Rear: 18"x10" ET52 - 23lbs).
I loved the look but I noticed that they would make ticking or creaking noises as they got dirty after washes. So I decided to take them to a rebuilder here in Portland. They dismantled them and inspected them and informed me that the threads holding the faceplates on are basically in the process of pulling out as a result of being over torqued from a previous rebuild. They are telling me the wheels are trashed. This is sad news, does the forum have any suggestions on other possible avenues?
Last edited by Michael Benno; 11-14-2018 at 11:56 PM.
I love those wheels have some Roock USA wheels that look almost just like them.
They are two piece and were offset for wide body cars.
Took them to have them re-barrelled.
When the bolts were in the condition yours are the previosu owner just glued them in.
Maybe you could do that? Maybe not.
If the treads are all that are messed up on the barrels a good repair shop should be able to fill and re-drill them. Even put in new bolts all round.
My local wheel shop was able to get some 3 piece barrels and weld them together to put the 2 piece centers in and change the widths and offsets for me. Ended up with 8x18 et 57 and 10x18 et 58 like Carrera Classics.
The Roock USAs just have more bolts between the spokes.
Last edited by RKD in OKC; 08-16-2018 at 03:43 AM.
I'd be looking up a thread repair specialist. I know there are threaded rivets that you need to press in that might work. Again, thread repair specialist. Some even come to you.
It would, but... Look for TimeSerts instead. They are easier to put in especially that close to the barrel. You'll be using a tap on an extension for both tapping the holes and setting the inserts. HeliCoils go in with a tool that holds the tang at the bottom, so the wire loops shrink a litle as you twist them in. I'm not sure I've ever seen a HeliCoil tool that is long enough to get down there that tight to the barrel. The tool in the kit has butterfly-wing handles on it -- it might work, but deserves a test fit by holding it there and maintaining the correct distance. Meanwhile, the TimeSert uses a tap that will fit on a standard tap extension. That will make relatively short work of the tapping job. In your application, the TimeSerts will be much stronger too. In my experience anyway.