Notices
928 Forum 1978-1995
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: 928 Specialists

Pressure plate exploded

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-29-2018, 11:23 AM
  #1  
Tampa 928s
Race Car
Thread Starter
 
Tampa 928s's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Tampa Florida
Posts: 4,089
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 5 Posts
Default Pressure plate exploded

83
Found only one finger in place and 4 in the bottom of the bell housing the rest are probably on the road.
When taking it apart I found someone spot welded the rear small shaft clamp and now I can’t move it back enough to drop the clutch. I’m going to try removing the rear clamp unless someone else comes up with a workable solution.


Fingers gone


Look at the bent Cps pins


Spot welded
Old 07-29-2018, 11:34 AM
  #2  
Jerry Feather
Rennlist Member
 
Jerry Feather's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: 2706 Skyline Drive, Grand Junction CO 81506
Posts: 6,553
Received 589 Likes on 346 Posts
Default

I think that is a factory tack weld.
Old 07-29-2018, 11:38 AM
  #3  
DR
Rennlist Sponsor
Rennlist
Site Sponsor

 
DR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 4,306
Received 12 Likes on 8 Posts
Default

You don't see that everyday! I don't think that weld will cause the problem you think it will. Don't let that slow you down!!

Dave
__________________
David Roberts
2010 Jaguar XKR Coupe - 510HP Stock - Liquid Silver Metallic
928 Owners Club Co-Founder
Rennlist 928 Forum Main Sponsor
www.928gt.com

928 Specialists on Facebook - 928Specialists
Sharks in the Mountains on Facebook - 928SITM

Old 07-29-2018, 11:58 AM
  #4  
Tampa 928s
Race Car
Thread Starter
 
Tampa 928s's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Tampa Florida
Posts: 4,089
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

I feel better never seen that before just tight and has not moved did not want to beat on it.
Old 07-29-2018, 12:26 PM
  #5  
jcorenman
Rennlist Member
 
jcorenman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Friday Harbor, WA
Posts: 4,041
Received 292 Likes on 143 Posts
Default

Your pictures show the clamp screws still in place-- they both need to loosened and removed before that coupling sleeve is going anywhere. The front one fits a groove in the short-shaft and must be removed for sure, the rear one will try to get itself into trouble so remove it also. And both need replacement, available from your favorite parts vendor.
Old 07-29-2018, 12:39 PM
  #6  
Jerry Feather
Rennlist Member
 
Jerry Feather's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: 2706 Skyline Drive, Grand Junction CO 81506
Posts: 6,553
Received 589 Likes on 346 Posts
Default



I see it every time I look at this 928 auto flex plate clamp. It has however broken loose on this one.
Old 07-29-2018, 01:57 PM
  #7  
Constantine
Rennlist Member
 
Constantine's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,891
Received 206 Likes on 121 Posts
Default

To Tampa 928s,

As other have said, that is a factory spot weld. Given the condition of your clamp, your drive shaft and clamp might be rusted together which will make moving it back very difficult. Suggest using a generous amount of liquid wrench or other oil penetrant in the clamp and drive shaft union, letting it soak and then pry it back carefully with a pry bar. Be careful of the aluminum bell housing, use a piece of wood to pry against. Leave the rear clamped, since you could move the drive shaft backward through the bearings if you don't while trying to pry the front clamp rearward.

Good luck!
Old 07-29-2018, 02:44 PM
  #8  
Tampa 928s
Race Car
Thread Starter
 
Tampa 928s's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Tampa Florida
Posts: 4,089
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

I have removed the bolts picture was when I started.
i need a few more Mm to remove the short shaft any hints?


Need a few more Mm to remove
Old 07-29-2018, 03:35 PM
  #9  
Constantine
Rennlist Member
 
Constantine's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,891
Received 206 Likes on 121 Posts
Default

Looks like your drive shaft migrated forward a bit in the torque tube and is now resting against the short shaft.

Loosen the rear clamp and pry back on the drive shaft to move it back in the torque tube bearings the needed amount.
Old 07-29-2018, 08:19 PM
  #10  
Kevin in Atlanta
Rennlist Member
 
Kevin in Atlanta's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Roswell, GA
Posts: 7,971
Received 739 Likes on 447 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Jerry Feather
I think that is a factory tack weld.
Correct
Old 07-29-2018, 09:00 PM
  #11  
Tampa 928s
Race Car
Thread Starter
 
Tampa 928s's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Tampa Florida
Posts: 4,089
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

One clutch received a little side damage PP nothing remains and Tob can’t even be rotated.



Old 08-02-2018, 07:01 PM
  #12  
Tampa 928s
Race Car
Thread Starter
 
Tampa 928s's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Tampa Florida
Posts: 4,089
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

I want to verify the position of the of the preload washer 16 and thrust washer 12 since it was all in pieces when I received it.


Part 16 does it locate in front of the pressure plate does not seem correct seems it should be in the rear.


This is how I believe it should be installed


Assuming flat portion of thrust washer is face down as shown. Preload washer fingers beveled facing up on thrust washer then snap ring
Old 08-02-2018, 07:34 PM
  #13  
jcorenman
Rennlist Member
 
jcorenman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Friday Harbor, WA
Posts: 4,041
Received 292 Likes on 143 Posts
Default

You've got it backwards. It's a pull-clutch, and the heavy washer #12 is what exerts the force against the PP diaphragm-spring fingers. So the spring-washer (15) goes on the bearing side-- below the PP diaphragm spring in your photos-- with the teeth oriented towards the bearing. On the top side (as shown in your photos) the heavy washer (12) goes on with the rounded side against the PP fingers. Then the snap ring (11) to hold it all together. As the clutch actuates (disengages) the release bearing pulls the center of the PP spring (downwards as pictured in your photos) via washer 12 and snap-ring 11.

Don't forget a light coating of hi-temp Optimoly grease on the splines, and also on the PP spring fingers where they contact washer (12) and the edge of the spring-washer (15).
Old 08-02-2018, 10:45 PM
  #14  
Speedtoys
Rennlist Member
 
Speedtoys's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Boulder Creek, CA
Posts: 13,582
Received 1,034 Likes on 623 Posts
Default




Quick Reply: Pressure plate exploded



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 03:05 AM.