Pressure plate exploded
#1
Race Car
Thread Starter
Pressure plate exploded
83
Found only one finger in place and 4 in the bottom of the bell housing the rest are probably on the road.
When taking it apart I found someone spot welded the rear small shaft clamp and now I can’t move it back enough to drop the clutch. I’m going to try removing the rear clamp unless someone else comes up with a workable solution.
Fingers gone
Look at the bent Cps pins
Spot welded
Found only one finger in place and 4 in the bottom of the bell housing the rest are probably on the road.
When taking it apart I found someone spot welded the rear small shaft clamp and now I can’t move it back enough to drop the clutch. I’m going to try removing the rear clamp unless someone else comes up with a workable solution.
Fingers gone
Look at the bent Cps pins
Spot welded
#3
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You don't see that everyday! I don't think that weld will cause the problem you think it will. Don't let that slow you down!!
Dave
Dave
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David Roberts
2010 Jaguar XKR Coupe - 510HP Stock - Liquid Silver Metallic
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David Roberts
2010 Jaguar XKR Coupe - 510HP Stock - Liquid Silver Metallic
928 Owners Club Co-Founder
Rennlist 928 Forum Main Sponsor
www.928gt.com
928 Specialists on Facebook - 928Specialists
Sharks in the Mountains on Facebook - 928SITM
#5
Rennlist Member
Your pictures show the clamp screws still in place-- they both need to loosened and removed before that coupling sleeve is going anywhere. The front one fits a groove in the short-shaft and must be removed for sure, the rear one will try to get itself into trouble so remove it also. And both need replacement, available from your favorite parts vendor.
#7
To Tampa 928s,
As other have said, that is a factory spot weld. Given the condition of your clamp, your drive shaft and clamp might be rusted together which will make moving it back very difficult. Suggest using a generous amount of liquid wrench or other oil penetrant in the clamp and drive shaft union, letting it soak and then pry it back carefully with a pry bar. Be careful of the aluminum bell housing, use a piece of wood to pry against. Leave the rear clamped, since you could move the drive shaft backward through the bearings if you don't while trying to pry the front clamp rearward.
Good luck!
As other have said, that is a factory spot weld. Given the condition of your clamp, your drive shaft and clamp might be rusted together which will make moving it back very difficult. Suggest using a generous amount of liquid wrench or other oil penetrant in the clamp and drive shaft union, letting it soak and then pry it back carefully with a pry bar. Be careful of the aluminum bell housing, use a piece of wood to pry against. Leave the rear clamped, since you could move the drive shaft backward through the bearings if you don't while trying to pry the front clamp rearward.
Good luck!
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#9
Looks like your drive shaft migrated forward a bit in the torque tube and is now resting against the short shaft.
Loosen the rear clamp and pry back on the drive shaft to move it back in the torque tube bearings the needed amount.
Loosen the rear clamp and pry back on the drive shaft to move it back in the torque tube bearings the needed amount.
#10
Rennlist Member
#12
Race Car
Thread Starter
I want to verify the position of the of the preload washer 16 and thrust washer 12 since it was all in pieces when I received it.
Part 16 does it locate in front of the pressure plate does not seem correct seems it should be in the rear.
This is how I believe it should be installed
Assuming flat portion of thrust washer is face down as shown. Preload washer fingers beveled facing up on thrust washer then snap ring
Part 16 does it locate in front of the pressure plate does not seem correct seems it should be in the rear.
This is how I believe it should be installed
Assuming flat portion of thrust washer is face down as shown. Preload washer fingers beveled facing up on thrust washer then snap ring
#13
Rennlist Member
You've got it backwards. It's a pull-clutch, and the heavy washer #12 is what exerts the force against the PP diaphragm-spring fingers. So the spring-washer (15) goes on the bearing side-- below the PP diaphragm spring in your photos-- with the teeth oriented towards the bearing. On the top side (as shown in your photos) the heavy washer (12) goes on with the rounded side against the PP fingers. Then the snap ring (11) to hold it all together. As the clutch actuates (disengages) the release bearing pulls the center of the PP spring (downwards as pictured in your photos) via washer 12 and snap-ring 11.
Don't forget a light coating of hi-temp Optimoly grease on the splines, and also on the PP spring fingers where they contact washer (12) and the edge of the spring-washer (15).
Don't forget a light coating of hi-temp Optimoly grease on the splines, and also on the PP spring fingers where they contact washer (12) and the edge of the spring-washer (15).