JDY928

Hello All,

I have a 1983 928S, Australian, right hand drive, k-jet. The car has been running well but the fuel accumulator in the right rear wheel well has been leaking. I purchased the new part and fitted it yesterday. I then tried to start the car. Much cranking but no fire, not even a little stumble. The cranking got slower and slower, even from a fully charged battery. I then tried to jump the fuel pump, to let it circulate fuel for a while, to see if that would solve the problem. Pump ran for a bout 15 seconds and then made sort of a "sparking" noise a couple of times and stopped. It appears that it blew the fuse. From this, would I possibly be right in thinking that I have a blockage? Is there any trick to putting in the accumulator (I do have it the correct way around)?

Thanks in advance,

Jed in Sydney

AirtekHVAC

JDY928

Hi All,

Bump! Does anyone have any other thoughts? The fuel pump is quite new (less than 5 years) and I will check it, but was running fine a couple of weeks ago.

Regards,

Jed in Sydney

Hilton

Hey Jed - the fact that the pump isn't working at the same time as you replaced the accumulator is too much of a coincidence to be fuel pump death IMO.

The fuse popped - so first thing I'd try is running 12V direct to the pump to see if it runs (2 jump leads from battery - with a fuse).

Or bust out a multimeter and see where you do/don't have voltage or continuity in the fuel pump path (e.g. undo one terminal from the pump, and then check both ends at the relay position to see if there's a short).

jpitman2

Get an ammeter like this https://www.jaycar.com.au/automotive...meter/p/QP2257 - I know its discontinued, but they are on ebay. Get a blade fuse holder, connect a lead to each end with a 6mm spade tag male on the other end, plug one end into the pump relay socket (output side)with the ammeter connected, connect the other tag into the relay socket live side briefly (in case it blows), see what sort of current you see. My CIS pump showed 7A. I had a pump fail once, but when I applied reverse voltage it spat out an obstruction and kept running for years afterwards. With the proper pump relay you should hear the pump run for a few seconds at turn on, without cranking. I alos burned out 2 relays before I found the issue - high resistance at the fuse due to bad contact - clean, and apply Deoxit to the fuse ends and holders. If all else fails, disconnect the return line at the engine, and try blowing air back through to the tank. Blowing back through the supply line is harder, as you would have to disconnect also at the accumulator, and/or at the pump check valve.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k CIS

Hilton

Good idea John - I've got both a blade fuse holder and the above ammeter.. and some spade terminals.

Jed I can come by this weekend, and bring the bits along with a multimeter, and an external 13.4V power supply. Should be able to figure out which bit isn't right.