kaamacat

On my 81', the starter just quit last week. The one and only "symptom" prior to that was on a very cold day when starting the car, it almost sounded like my battery was very (very) low and would barely start the car. (but it did). Later and about 2x since then it was fine.

Last week nothing. (Only the "click" to the relay panel). FYI. I get 12+V around the car, dash panel is fine....etc.

I've been down to the starter solenoid and get 12v on the main, but, when the ignition is in the start position I only get 7.xV at the other terminal. (the switch/energized one I assume).

Questions are this.

1) Is that 7.x v what should travel to the switch side on the solenoid to engage?
2) If that is ok, then is it a 99.99% fact that the starter and/or solenoid just need to be rebuilt or replaced?


Thanks,
Bob

GlenL

Sounds like it could be a ground issue. You can always take the starter in for a free test at an auto parts store.

Garth S

If you're referring to the 1.5mm black/yellow wire @ the starter solenoid indicating ~7v...This wire passes fr. the key switch thru a 0.4 ohm ballast, so should give ~12v - if I read the diag. correctly. Could be failing/corroded contacts in the ign. switch.
Disconnect the battery ground and 'exercise' the key switch - reconnect & if by some fluke it starts, replace the electrical part of the ign. switch.
On the auto, there is also a 'starter blocking relay'; however, from your ~7v observation, look at the ign. switch first.
Failing this, pull the starter as Glen suggests: with care and a set of jumper cables, you can test it.... or, there's autozone/etc.

T_MaX

Do you have to drop the sway bar on the early 928 cars?

kaamacat

Appreciate the replies.

Let me 2x check those readings again and be a bit more accurate, clean the solenoid connections, and try again. (along with your suggestions).


Bob

WallyP

You should have about 12 volts at the yellow wire, with the wire disconnected. Remember that the voltage will measure low if the solenoid is connected, pulling the voltage down. Also remember that you must have sufficient current flow (amperage) thru the yellow wire to energize the solenoid.

My first suspicion is the 14-pole connection at the jump start terminal on the passenger terminal. If you are missing the plastic box-like cover over these connections, or are missing the slip-on piece on the edge of the fender, water and car-washing soap can drip into the connector, causing corrosion and poor connections.

As mentioned, a bad connection in or at the ignition switch can also cause this problem. So can a faulty start relay in the fuse panel, but I would suggest some testing first. Throwing parts at a 928 electrical problem is rarely effective.



Check for

Normy

[Can I please buy this part somewhere?]

The one part that my car has been avoiding via my ******* PO and my own lack of knowledge all these years has been the cover over the major electrical connector at the right/passenger side of the engine.

Uhmm...I've driven my '85 S2 for nearly 5 YEARS in Central Florida's humidity without this guard....without problem. Hello? Is it really that important?

N!
'85 S2 and 5 Speeds

Eric G

Bob,

I just got done spending the weekend fixing a similar start problem. Walley is absolutely correct. Find the problem first, then fix it.

I found one of Walley's step-wise methods posted somewhere (I'll find it for you if you need) and began testing voltage at the ignition connection at relay XIV, the automatic transmission start block, the 14 point connector by the jump start (+) pole (which was broken, so I replaced it - but not the actual fix), and finally the wire at the solenoid. I was getting voltage at the 14 point connector, but not at the solenoid. I could jump the solenoid and the starter would start (indicating the starter is OK).

Therefore, my problem was the wire from the 14 point connector to the solenoid. Replaced the wire, and presto! The car starts!

By the way, it's not too expensive to get the cap for the 14 point connector, so I would go for it. There are quite a few wires connecting through there that could really mess up your electricals if they get corroded.

HTH

kaamacat

Wally, Eric.

Not to sound dumb (but like they say only dumb people dont ask questions).

Exactly where is this 14Pole connection you refer to. (literally). Is it near the passenger side, engine compartment, mid-way, black cover cap on large (+). (See what happens when you dont get to work on some problems......knock-on-wood........you dont get familiar with your electrical gremlin buddies). :-)



Bob

Eric G

It's on the passenger side of the engine compartment, attached to a metal flange just under the edge of the fender. The (+) jumper pole is right next to it. The connector is dark brown, about 1 1/2 inches long. It just pops out of the flange.

kaamacat

Well. Lets just say that I found it. Kinda like looking for King Tut's mummy at a beachside vollyball contest. (taking digital pics would only make it worse).

Just for starters at 1st look (2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th) I see coorosion on the exposed wires (where covers have fallen off). Needless to say I will be working on this area a bit like a Dr. I can't wait to see whats inside the
cover itself.

...............So I'll be on this little mission for a bit, and greatly appreciate the inputs. (stay tuned !!!).




Bob

kaamacat

Sometimes it's the easy things to fix. (read on)

I did start to look at the underhood connector, and yes the "wire wrap" going into the plug was nasty, some sheething missing from being dry. So I carefully did a cleanup on that.

I go to start the car, battery dead. (So I figure hmmmm strange, but who knows). I measure all of 2v......not good, so lets try to recharge it. I pull the battery, place it on a charger...........WOW.......its not only taking a charge BUT charged a little too fast I thought, along with an initial noise that sounded like a starwars weapon.

I put the fully re-charged battery in the car, and wham, it works.............for all of 10seconds........and slowwwwly dies (the starter cranking that is). I check and only have 10v at the battery. Needless to say whether it was just 1 bad cell, that battery was hosed. But it would trip from 13 to 10 immediately with a large load from the starter.

Went to Autozone for a Group49-D (1000cca), perfect fit, plastic cover on the "+", nice venting tube. , and its perfect. So sometimes the simple stuff is the problem!!! (thanks all for the inputs)


Bob