INTAKE BOOT R AND R
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Joined: Dec 2012
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From: NEW YORK
INTAKE BOOT R AND R
I am planning on installing a replacement set of intake boots and would like to know if there are any tricks to doing so. Should I cut off the old boots or grease/remove them? The existing are original but do not leak.
Last edited by WALTSTAR; Jul 16, 2018 at 12:10 PM.
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From: Up Nort
16V
1. loosen up all 16 hose clamps
2. Push the rubber couplers onto the runner
3. Loosen the hose clamp under the plenum holding the rubber boot on the TB and Plenum (two clamps, but only have to loosen one)
4. Pull off plenum
5. Reinstall in reverse
Good idea to buy all new clamps too, including the two that go on the TB / Plenum end and that rubber boot too. 928 International, 928's R Us, and 928 Specialists carry what you need.
Have a multi-meter? Check the idle and WOT switch
Good time to change the O-ring which seals around the AFM in the lower "U" piece.
Speaking of the lower "U" piece, that is bolted to the block in three locations. A wedge of rubber with two studs sticking out. There is a good chance one if not all three are broken and the "U" is loose. Getting these studs out of the block can be a real challenge.
1. loosen up all 16 hose clamps
2. Push the rubber couplers onto the runner
3. Loosen the hose clamp under the plenum holding the rubber boot on the TB and Plenum (two clamps, but only have to loosen one)
4. Pull off plenum
5. Reinstall in reverse
Good idea to buy all new clamps too, including the two that go on the TB / Plenum end and that rubber boot too. 928 International, 928's R Us, and 928 Specialists carry what you need.
Have a multi-meter? Check the idle and WOT switch
Good time to change the O-ring which seals around the AFM in the lower "U" piece.
Speaking of the lower "U" piece, that is bolted to the block in three locations. A wedge of rubber with two studs sticking out. There is a good chance one if not all three are broken and the "U" is loose. Getting these studs out of the block can be a real challenge.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 874
Likes: 63
From: NEW YORK
The responses in the beginning were obviously addressed to some guy that doesnt know how to open the hood.....
What I was looking for is stated just above.
Thank you Hacker-Pschorr.
What I was looking for is stated just above.
Thank you Hacker-Pschorr.
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,261
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From: Park Ridge, IL (near Chicago)
Yeah, I dreaded removing those boots. When I first did it, they were no real problem. I did purchase new boots, and I have since removed and replaced them many times. An electric wrench really helps. The rubber has stayed soft, and just slides back out of the way very easily. I kept my old clamps.
Good luck,
Dave
Good luck,
Dave
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From: Boulder Creek, CA
The blue is cool, but considering the location...a massively fuel laden environment.
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It’s important to understand how oil, gasoline, and petroleum-based products interact with silicone. These products break down the molecular structure of the silicone, and can cause it to weep, leak, or rupture. Good results may be found if they have a fluorocarbon and fluoro silicone liners. (Flextech.com)
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Im no greenie, but silicone hoses/vacuum lines are the next worst thing to clean air than removing the cat...they weep so many hydrocarbons. Those will get..odd over period of time, an odd cleaning cant undo.
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It’s important to understand how oil, gasoline, and petroleum-based products interact with silicone. These products break down the molecular structure of the silicone, and can cause it to weep, leak, or rupture. Good results may be found if they have a fluorocarbon and fluoro silicone liners. (Flextech.com)
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Im no greenie, but silicone hoses/vacuum lines are the next worst thing to clean air than removing the cat...they weep so many hydrocarbons. Those will get..odd over period of time, an odd cleaning cant undo.
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I’ve tossed a few sets of those away and replaced with stock. Once they get oil soaked they slip, fail to seal and cause all sorts of issues. Same with those crap silicone coolant lines the 944 guys love.