UKKid35

How clean does the block have to be before putting the heads back on? Is this good enough?

http://www.928.org.uk/ukkid35/projec...ture%20072.jpg
http://www.928.org.uk/ukkid35/projec...ture%20073.jpg

If not what should I be using to clean it?

John Struthers

Paul,
I'd go cleaner try to keep away from scraping with metal objects if you can't keep them level/square with the work.
It isn't good practice to scrape the pisions if that's what happened.
Unless you clean the whole thing you CAN get Hot Spots.
Green pads and solvent, various grades of steel wool and solvents, maybe
Could be the light but the bores look nasty as well.

GlenL

No. It should be completely shiney except, maybe, for a few pits

3M green pads, lacquer thinner and lots of elbow grease. (That's a term for work, if it doesn't translate.) Don't use steel wool as you'll get the fibers everywhere. Put a rag in each bore to collect the dust and solvent.

I've seen the pads in a variety of purposes. Make sure to get the ones for cleaning metal. Might see ones that are almost black, those are OK too.

.

Sab

See if you find anyone that does Dry Ice Blasting in your area. It'll look like new in just a couple of minutes.

Tony

Dry Ice blasting...WOW, havent heard of that one!

Im looking at having things cleaned up as well, so this post intrests me also. Thanks

Sab

It's a process similar to sand blasting but it uses small dry ice pellets as a blast media.
The advantage is that it is non abrasive and the blast media dissipates upon impact and leaves nothing but the removed contaminant behind.

http://www.green-tech.net/

UKKid35

Thanks for your replies, I was originally unhappy with using abrasive pads where I knew I wouldn't be able to clean out all the debris. However I've used the green pads and hopefully this is good enough:

http://www.928.org.uk/ukkid35/projec...ture%20102.jpg
http://www.928.org.uk/ukkid35/projec...ture%20103.jpg

(It's wet because it's raining)

Also, any idea why I have "2" stamped on the pistons and on the top edge of the block?

Thanks

Erik - Denmark

UKK;
That's the tolerance group

ErnestSw

Use the green pads with lacquer thinner. It's one of the "hottest" solvents and should take you all the way to clean.

GlenL

I'd say a bit mote to go. Cylinder #1 looks good but #2 needs some work. The corrosion around the outside is too much is places, especially by the pin above #1.

The head gaskets are supposed to go in without sealant. The thinking is that the heads and block move a bit when heating and the sealant can crack. Some do it anyways and it's a personal/religious issue. If you were thinking to use some sealer to fix the bad spots I'd suggest to keep working on them.

But a 90% improvement from the first pictures!

UKKid35

Thanks guys, I've done some more cleaning and posted more pics, please have a look and tell me what you think:

http://www.928.org.uk/ukkid35/project/index

Pics 109 to 119 - block/head surface
Pics 120 to 125 - water pump face

I know I must seem like the laziest person on earth, but I only get about 12 hours per week to work on the car at the weekend when there's enough light, assuming it doesn't rain.

ErnestSw

Believe me when I say that lazy people don't undertake the job you're doing inder the conditions in which you're working.
My respects to you for your perserverance.

Tony

Where can you get these "3M Green Pads"...any pics of them..thanks.
Nice job with the clean up!

Lizard928

personally I would recommend using/shooting some brakleen on them, that clears that stuff right off,
also you can get rim scrubbers which are plastic bristles and you can use that to cut through the carbon, however if you do that try not to catch the cylinder wall, I personally would keep going till everything is off the top of the piston, or to leave it alone completely

Lagavulin

For those brown spots on the block, you can take a NEW razor blade and carefully scrape it away. I bought a pack of the type which are used in those hand-held box cutters/openers. Be very careful not to gouge the surface. If you use both hands on the blade (..thumb and index finger), it can be done as it'll be much easier to keep the blade flat on the surface. It took me over 4 hours to do both the block and the top of the cylinders. It was excruciating, but it had to be done.