Need Advice - Flywheel Lock Tool Issue
#1
Need Advice - Flywheel Lock Tool Issue
Tool after it was removed.
Flywheel after tool was removed.
Hi All, First Time Posting, Long Time Lurking. I have an 85 928. I've done the TB job on this car before, and I updated to the Porken at the same time. This week was my third trip in, to inspect the belt and replace the water pump. My point being, I'm pretty comfortable with this job and using the flywheel tool.
So I installed the Flywheel lock tool as I've done in the past. It went in with no issues. I then tried to loosen the crank bolt. It was (is) very tight. I am using an 18" breaker bar. The third or fourth time I applied force, something gave but it wasn't the bolt. The crank moved. I pulled the tool and saw the teeth on the tool were slightly worn.
None of the mounting bolts were sheered. I made sure the tool was pointing in the correct direction. I reinserted the tool, and tried again, and the same thing happened. But this time, there was no resistance. I could just turn the crank and at the same time hear what sounded to me like the tool working against the flywheel teeth loosely.
Given what I experienced, I expected to see flywheel teeth missing, or a really damaged tool. But from what my amateur eye is telling me, the damage isn't bad enough to cause what I'm experiencing.
Any thoughts, guidance, advice you folks can offer is much appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
#4
Team Owner
do you have the radiator out? if so then you can use a gun to remove the crank bolt .
my guess is that the flywheel is pushing the tool out of position,
and then this will make it jump .
So your going to need to clean the mounting areas and then move the teeth back and forth till the tool is fully seated.
use longer bolts so all of the threads in the bell housing are used.
NOTE its best to have a helper with a breaker bar on the crank bolt while you fit the tool.
The tool will probably be OK
my guess is that the flywheel is pushing the tool out of position,
and then this will make it jump .
So your going to need to clean the mounting areas and then move the teeth back and forth till the tool is fully seated.
use longer bolts so all of the threads in the bell housing are used.
NOTE its best to have a helper with a breaker bar on the crank bolt while you fit the tool.
The tool will probably be OK
#5
Thanks for all the responses folks. I appreciate it. I'm going to take your advice and see if I'm not fully engaging the tool. I'll let you know what happens.
If it comes down to it, how difficult is it to replace the flywheel?
If it comes down to it, how difficult is it to replace the flywheel?
#6
You know, I've used the tool on the earlier 16v cars and it works great. Doing first belt on an 85, and did not like the way my tool fit either.
Eventually rocked and tapped it into a firmer place, but didn't like it.
Yes, I had purchased the correct 32v tool, but it did not fit as positively as the 16v tools did.
Are there different manufacturers of these tools?
Eventually rocked and tapped it into a firmer place, but didn't like it.
Yes, I had purchased the correct 32v tool, but it did not fit as positively as the 16v tools did.
Are there different manufacturers of these tools?
#7
I wanted to circle back around on this one with an update. I ended up rotating the engine a bit (a few degrees?) past 45 degrees, and then attaching the tool. This worked. The tool grabbed and I was able to easily remove the crank bolt.
That said, based on the helpful feedback I received here and from Roger at 928sRus, I sourced a new (used) flywheel and, though I don't need it now, will put it on my list to R&R.
Thanks Everyone!
Joe
That said, based on the helpful feedback I received here and from Roger at 928sRus, I sourced a new (used) flywheel and, though I don't need it now, will put it on my list to R&R.
Thanks Everyone!
Joe