1984 steering wheel removal direction
#1
Track Day
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1984 steering wheel removal direction
I recently bought a Grand Prix White 1984 S, auto transmission. I am attempting to remove the steering wheel. Before I add force to loosen the 27mm bolt, need to verify the rotation - counter clockwise (left=loose) or clockwise (right=tight). I have ordered the shop manuals, but haven't arrived yet, searched the forums, but have not found an answer. I have the PET in PDF, printed the 1984 Odometer repair procedure from Dwayne's garage 1984 ODOMETER REPAIR PROCEDURE . I am attempting to replace odometer, ignition switch (not bouncing back to correct position after starting), and dash bulbs. Pulling pod and dash as prep for replacement leather from Classic9. Other than cleaning, any items I may be overlooking that should be addressed when pod/dash are out?
So far I have performed the "Annual Maintenance" - cleaning grounds and replaced the starter relay (XIV). The relay was a VW part (not sure it was compatible), but the sides were "squished" in, and sometimes would buzz. TB/WP was done within last 6 months, has a Porken tensioner.
I will be posting a better "Hello, happy to be here" message (with pics) soon. I had a 84 928 (Ruby Red) from 2000 - 2010, had to sell. But these cars are so special to me, I had to replace when I got back on my feet. I appreciate this community, was so helpful first time around. It is good to be back
So far I have performed the "Annual Maintenance" - cleaning grounds and replaced the starter relay (XIV). The relay was a VW part (not sure it was compatible), but the sides were "squished" in, and sometimes would buzz. TB/WP was done within last 6 months, has a Porken tensioner.
I will be posting a better "Hello, happy to be here" message (with pics) soon. I had a 84 928 (Ruby Red) from 2000 - 2010, had to sell. But these cars are so special to me, I had to replace when I got back on my feet. I appreciate this community, was so helpful first time around. It is good to be back
#3
Team Owner
loosen the nut then leave it on a few threads,
then pull on either side of the wheel using a rocking motion ,
the wheel could suddenly come loose the nut will hold it.
then pull on either side of the wheel using a rocking motion ,
the wheel could suddenly come loose the nut will hold it.
#4
Three Wheelin'
Several good threads in the sticky regarding repairs/checks while dash is out.
mine just went back together, but while it was out...
1) clean everything
2) rewrap and tie wiring harnesses if cloth tape has come loose
3) remove excess wiring from PO stereo/alarm jobs
4) verify operation of hvac vacuum system and electronics
5) verify cruise control operation
6) clean everything
7) remove corrosion where possible from terminals, connectors and switches (eg dimmer rheostat).
good luck - it was a great feeling for me to do all of this
-scott
mine just went back together, but while it was out...
1) clean everything
2) rewrap and tie wiring harnesses if cloth tape has come loose
3) remove excess wiring from PO stereo/alarm jobs
4) verify operation of hvac vacuum system and electronics
5) verify cruise control operation
6) clean everything
7) remove corrosion where possible from terminals, connectors and switches (eg dimmer rheostat).
good luck - it was a great feeling for me to do all of this
-scott
#5
Burning Brakes
When breaking that nut loose, be sure you're turning down towards the seat and not in an upwards motion towards the windshield.
#6
Rennlist Member
You probably know this, but do not use the steering wheel lock to stabilize the wheel while turning the wrench to loosen the nut. You might break the locking mechanism.
Good luck,
Dave
Good luck,
Dave
#7
Track Day
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Thank you all for the replies, will do the best I can not to break the windshield of course now that I typed that, jinx. Again, thanks. will update with progress (or lack), once I get back into the garage.
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#8
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Steering wheel is off, no broken glass or teeth. I am finding more zip ties than bolts under the pod. Left side of pod will move a bit, right side is still locked down, will try again shortly.
#9
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Pod is off, replaced bulbs in instrument cluster, cleaning as I go. Replaced ignition switch, cranked right up (so good to hear) and key bounced back as it should. following the "sticky" thread of things to do while in there, thanks for the suggestion DrScott. Next is replacing broken odo gear. taking the opportunity to replace the aftermarket Clarion (wedged in so tight, has a CD from the PO stuck in it), with a Retrosound Hermosa B with BlueTooth. Have Infinity Reference speakers to replace originals. having trouble locating grilles, but will keep looking. Thanks to all who replied, help keep the confidence up.
maybe this question should go in the "what is it" thread. I have found an extra connector on the left side of the pod, wrapped in cloth, as if there would be 4 ***** (Lights/Fog/Odo reset, + something?).
maybe this question should go in the "what is it" thread. I have found an extra connector on the left side of the pod, wrapped in cloth, as if there would be 4 ***** (Lights/Fog/Odo reset, + something?).
#10
Three Wheelin'
Sounds like you are making great progress! That extra taped up connector is for a rear fog light switch (not found in the US cars).
I just tied mine back farther on the harness with a zip tie to keep it out of the way.
I just tied mine back farther on the harness with a zip tie to keep it out of the way.
#11
Burning Brakes
Maybe too late, but I just saw this thread -- another while-you're-at-it item is to replace the bearing for the steering wheel shaft! It will go out sooner or later, it leaves the car basically undrivable and is a pain to change on its own (but right there with the wheel and pod off).
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-grinding.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-grinding.html
#12
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Thanks DrScott, will zip the 4th connector further out of the way. Not too late at all rjtw, pod/dash will be out for a while as re-cover with leather from Classic9 (shipment confirmed yesterday). I will order the bearing, have looked at your write-up, but may have more questions. Many, many thanks to all, and to Rennlist for providing this service for our community.
#13
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I am finding a Steering Shaft Bearing Top (928-347-791-00) and Steering Bearing lower (911-347-771-02), any issues with lower bearing? Replace lower while I am in there and for peace of mind? There is also a Steering Bearing Support Ring (928-347-739-02). Knowing my luck with "mechaniking", am ordering another Circlip (113-415-531). I notice a bit of grease around the top bearing, any particular type suggested?
#14
Burning Brakes
Hey Scott,
Sorry, can't help with the other issues. I don't recall any discussions of the lower steering bearing here on the list, but haven't searched, and I don't recall putting any grease on the bearing but if I did it would have been whatever I had at hand and it's been well over ten years now. The only part I replaced was the upper bearing. Perhaps others can chime in.
BTW are you replacing the foil, or upgrading to LEDs? (Sorry if I missed that earlier). If so please post pics and let us know -- I've got an '83, virtually identical to your '84, and although everything is STILL working ok (knock on wood) one day may do both fixes!
Cheers,
Rick
Sorry, can't help with the other issues. I don't recall any discussions of the lower steering bearing here on the list, but haven't searched, and I don't recall putting any grease on the bearing but if I did it would have been whatever I had at hand and it's been well over ten years now. The only part I replaced was the upper bearing. Perhaps others can chime in.
BTW are you replacing the foil, or upgrading to LEDs? (Sorry if I missed that earlier). If so please post pics and let us know -- I've got an '83, virtually identical to your '84, and although everything is STILL working ok (knock on wood) one day may do both fixes!
Cheers,
Rick
#15
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Thanks Rick, foil still looks pretty good, a few dots here and there. I have only replaced the 3 12v 3w bulbs so far, using standard bulbs, not LED. Trying to work up the nerve to get into the odometer gear replacement.