Clutch Bleeding Advice Needed
06-23-2018, 02:14 PM
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Clutch Bleeding Advice Needed
Greetings
Replaced both the master and slave cylinders.
Currently in the process of bleeding the slave with a mity vac and I can't get all the air out. Pedal still drops to the floor with no resistance
I've been careful about keeping the reservoir full, have gone back to rechecked all the connections and have checked that brake bleeders are shut.
I've pulled at least 8 ounces through the slave and I'm still seeing mini bubbles.
What am I missing?
Thanks in advance
Replaced both the master and slave cylinders.
Currently in the process of bleeding the slave with a mity vac and I can't get all the air out. Pedal still drops to the floor with no resistance
I've been careful about keeping the reservoir full, have gone back to rechecked all the connections and have checked that brake bleeders are shut.
I've pulled at least 8 ounces through the slave and I'm still seeing mini bubbles.
What am I missing?
Thanks in advance
06-23-2018, 03:08 PM
#2
Rennlist Member
It sounds like you haven't bled the master from under the dash. This can be painful. Seat as far back as possible. Position yourself upside down, chest toward bottom of dash, weight on your shoulders. You have to unhook the pedal, remove c-clip, and slowly pull piston upward. Have some cloth around to catch fluid. Some air will come out, wait for fluid to start, push piston back in. Re-install clip, etc. I would re bleed the other lines.
06-24-2018, 03:45 AM
#3
Rennlist Member
Reverse bleeding
have you researched reverse bleeding? This worked for me pretty well after changing my clutch line. I used my power bleeder to force fluid up into the reservoir.
06-25-2018, 09:31 AM
#6
Team Owner
What am I missing?
before you go any further do you have the replacement line for the slave from Greg Brown at Precision Motorweks?
This line attaches at the sway bar mount then to the slave it makes bleeding the slave a snap..
It removes the original flex line and hard line that goes over the starter
before you go any further do you have the replacement line for the slave from Greg Brown at Precision Motorweks?
This line attaches at the sway bar mount then to the slave it makes bleeding the slave a snap..
It removes the original flex line and hard line that goes over the starter
06-25-2018, 11:07 AM
#7
I had the same symptoms when trying to gravity bleed, as well as trying to power bleed it from the fluid reservoir. Pedal to the floor, no resistance. Then, I reverse bled and got it perfect in one shot, very easy.
This is the thread that I posted on it:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-cylinder.html
The video that was posted above is very helpful in explaining how it all works. Make sure that you pull the clutch pedal all of the way out before beginning.
It will help to have a second person to watch the fluid reservoir for you, but I managed to handle it myself by adjusting the ball valve on the power bleeder to get a pretty slow flow. Which gave me time to move from watching the reservoir to shutting off the power bleeder before the fluid got too high.
I did this with the slave cylinder attached to the flywheel housing and with the OEM hardline. I would have preferred to have had a flexible line, but I worked with what I had.
This is the thread that I posted on it:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-cylinder.html
The video that was posted above is very helpful in explaining how it all works. Make sure that you pull the clutch pedal all of the way out before beginning.
It will help to have a second person to watch the fluid reservoir for you, but I managed to handle it myself by adjusting the ball valve on the power bleeder to get a pretty slow flow. Which gave me time to move from watching the reservoir to shutting off the power bleeder before the fluid got too high.
I did this with the slave cylinder attached to the flywheel housing and with the OEM hardline. I would have preferred to have had a flexible line, but I worked with what I had.