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My front spoiler was beginning to ground on speed bumps unless I took them very slowly, and yesterday I measured them at FR 165mm, FL 167mm. I'd originally set them at 175mm when I installed new Boge shocks and new springs 4 years and 6,000 miles ago.
When I put in the new shocks, I used replacement used adjuster nuts and threaded rings from 928 International which were in excellent shape. At the time I used Optimoly TA on threads, but I remember after the install thinking I hadn't put any anti-seize on where the lower sprint perch sits on the adjuster nut.
With both wheels in the air, the FR side moved fine with a C-spanner, so I wound it up to target height. However on the left side the entire spring wanted to move round with the nut, so I think I'm paying for not remembering the anti-seize on spring perch. You should be able to tell from photo that everything is in pretty good condition.
I've sprayed some penetrant around there and will let it soak for a day or so. meantime what would people recommend as best strategy for getting the adjuster nut moving independently on the threads? I'm hoping it can't be that jammed up, since the right side was relatively easy to adjust.
Putting wheels back on and letting her sit on ground (I've heard loading suspension can make it easier to turn nut free of the spring perch)? Using a spring compressor to take pressure off perch? Spraying in more penetrant, but where is the best place to direct it so it will soak into mating area of perch and adjuster?
It will be -hard- to compress the spring in situ that much.
And..when things are not frozen, they turn rather easy.
The front ones suck a lot..the inner ring is way smaller than the outer nut, so when it corrodes...its a huge PITA to break free.
In my experience, you need to soak in it in a high frequency cleaning tub with heat overnights...then put it on a muffler pipe spreader to HOLD the inside tightly, then work the nut slowly...then repeat as needed to break free the steel to aluminum corosion that sets in.
The rears...mucho easier. The inner collar and outer nut are both AL, and you can grab both nicely...and being both the same metal, its just road grit that gets in there to lock em up mostly, easier to recover from.
Just to close this, I was able to return to this job today, and it was easy to raise the height with adjuster once I'd used a spring compressor to relieve pressure on the lower perch.
Thanks Speedtoys. I bought them over ten years ago when I first changed shocks on my first 928. Wanted to get a good quality, substantial pair as was nervous of what I'd heard about spring accidents? These have performed very well since on both cars — lovely smooth action to the threaded part too. They also have a safety lock (sliding metal arc) which I normally attach between the two, but I didn't on this occasion as the compressors were not parallel in this application, so I was worried about losing them together (I'd never before applied them to spring on the car). But they do have a locking ring that is screwed down onto the lower pair of jaws.
I will dig them out of garage later and see if any clues to manufacturer.
Edit: Here you go they are Sealey AK3843. Sealey has good reputation here in UK for quality tools. No idea whether available in USA, but I just checked and lowest price here is around $185 equivalent. A lot for spring compressors, but not if you value keeping your head attached to your body!
Edit: Here you go they are Sealey AK3843. Sealey has good reputation here in UK for quality tools. No idea whether available in USA, but I just checked and lowest price here is around $185 equivalent. A lot for spring compressors, but not if you value keeping your head attached to your body!
06-20-2018, 09:40 AM
Freeing up front adjuster
