vanster

At last I got my new rack in along with ball joints, new brakes, rotors, tie rods, upper boots and a lot of cleaning. It all went together Ok ( only took 100;s of hours )
Now the steering hose leaks where it connects to the rack. I replaced it with another fitting and it leaked worse. The crush washers are not new and is there a sealing or a pipe thread tape I should have used. I have used yellow tape on my gas fittings on my Airstream...same Idea, kinda maybe?

dr bob

All the sealing is done by the copper banjo washers. They form into place when they seal, effectively work-hardening the surface in the process. They should be replaced every time a banjo bolt is loosened.

Thread sealing tape will buy you nothing, since the sealing is all done outside the threads.

I have gotten in the habit of adding a thin coating of Teflon pipe sealing paste to the faces of banjo washers, oil sump drain sealing washers, the galley drain bolts, etc. You can find it in the plumbing aisle at your favorite home store like Home Depot. White-and-grey "Oatey" brand at H-D in a few-ounces tube. You might try using some of that if you don't have new washers readily available. Know that almost any decent parts store has an assortment of copper washers that may very well include the ones you need. Note that with the teflon paste on the friction faces, reduce the torque you use on the bolts by maybe 20% to account for the reduced friction.

vanster

Thanks Dr Bob
I could only find aluminum crush washers from my local VW dealer and it still leaks. I'm going to try adding sealing paste. It appears to leak from the rack side and I'm uncomfortable with how it tightens. It feels like it won't tighten enough although it's really tight.

The Forgotten On

Those lines are torqued to 30 Nm or 22 ft/lbs as per the WSM. It isn't just snug and it will feel uncomfortable to do.

vanster

I agree. I'm at that uncomfortable stage.There was a bit of a burr on the rack, maybe from not getting it the bolt exactly straight one time so I cleaned it up. So maybe the surface on the rack is no longer perfect which is a big fear.

Mrmerlin

If your not sure of the mating surfaces then it would be wise to surface them best to remove the sway bar then use some 600 grit paper on a metal scale this should be good to find the high spots
NOTE also surface both sides of the banjo hole as they could have been crushed out of plane.

dr bob

Van --

Take your old washers and heat them with the propane torch. Let them cool slowly to anneal the copper. Install with the TFE sealing paste film on them.. Adjust tightening torque down a little. Make sure the sealing faces on the banjos are flat, but know that it takes a lot to damage them. The aluminum rack sealing faces are easier to scratch. Follow the guidance on using a little wet-or-dry on a flat pocket scale to find any high spots. Decide what to do when you find one. No amount of hand "sanding" will be flat enough to seal if you are going after gouges. Cleanliness is key on all this, as usual. Look at the machined faces of the banjo bolts too, replacing with new if needed.

The bolts are a snug but not tight fit where they thread into the rack. Finger thread in with no bolt. The threads are snug so the bolt stays square, and there's less chance of thread pull-out with full contact. Use The Torque Wrench. You'll be fine.

vanster

Got it
Thanks Bob

Mrmerlin

Best bet dont try to reuse the old sealing washers, even the reheated ones
its lot of work/mess to find out if they will leak.
Always use fresh sealing washers when you remove the banjo bolts.
Only took me two times to find this out,
I always order a second set of sealing washers. just in case.

vanster

Does aluminum or brass (new) Preference?

Mongo

Dr Bob, you seemed to have good luck with that Oatey sealing paste. When I did my rack, I used it but it never really 'stuck' to the copper washers. In the end, I went through 2 sets to finally find copper that made a good seal.

Old copper washers on the steering rack banjo fittings should be replaced always. Consider mandatory.

Rob Edwards

Neither. Copper. I can't speak to the quality of these but they're the right material, the right size, and stupid cheap:


Or you can go big and get a 10 times over- lifetime assortment that has 10x14, 16x20, and 14x18 for all your 928-specific copper sealing ring needs:

vanster

Thanks Rob
My brain said copper but my fingers said brass. I just ordered the assortment from Amazon

Mrmerlin

Roger sells the right ones as well as 928 INTL

vanster

I cannot get this rack to not leak!
I put in another 4 hours today and still cannot get the plumbing correct. The the line closest to the knuckle will not fit flush enough to create a decent seal
Now I am questioning if I have them in order.
I'm starting to loose it. I have more time on my back than most bar girls