Rattling windows
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Rattling windows
Both the windows in my car rattle when they are up and one is so loose I have to help it down. I haven't removed the door cards yet. Just curious of what I'm getting myself into. I'm dreading working inside the doors.
#2
Lots of adjustments and a few write ups on these. Did mine a few times, split the motors open (easy) and clean/re-grease made world of difference. Check your felt pads near the top of the door inside frame where the windows rub against. New plastic/Teflon guides through roger for the vertical tubes. Look for Stans "shower curtain" trick. There are few adjustments on the bracket down low for the regulator too. Take lots of pics of where things are exactly after you remove the door panel. Be careful of the plastic pop pins at the bottom of the door panel. Mine had a little Philips screw up near the side mirror as well
#3
Rennlist Member
Mostly its the wear in the nylon guides, and rattles when up?? A lose bolt on one of the guides probably. Could also be a worn or missing "insert", 92853728502, at the bottom of the guide rod.
Im good with window adjustments, and I have a spare set of all of this from the parts car already pulled out and in excellent shape,
Im good with window adjustments, and I have a spare set of all of this from the parts car already pulled out and in excellent shape,
#5
Nordschleife Master
As was noted, if they are rattling when up, then the guide bolts are likely loose.
If there's slop in the guides, a zip tie may fix it.
Or you can simply replace the guides. Roger has them.
Also, there's a rubber 'foot' at the bottom of the guide tube/rod. It gets hard and disintegrates over time.
It's actually a pretty easy job. Get the door card off, support the window (tape it to the door frame or put a 2 x 4 inside the door), remove the old parts and put in the new. Nothing tricky or difficult or hard to reach.
This job is NOT the door handle.
If there's slop in the guides, a zip tie may fix it.
Or you can simply replace the guides. Roger has them.
Also, there's a rubber 'foot' at the bottom of the guide tube/rod. It gets hard and disintegrates over time.
It's actually a pretty easy job. Get the door card off, support the window (tape it to the door frame or put a 2 x 4 inside the door), remove the old parts and put in the new. Nothing tricky or difficult or hard to reach.
This job is NOT the door handle.
#6
Team Owner
if you want to extend the parts life of the current window guides,
get two smaller sized zip ties and put them around each guide collar.
This will take up the space between the center tube and the collar,
and stop the rattle,
also check the guide bolts they will come loose.
I like to use a clear shower curtain from the BBB store ,
its vinyl, I also use the Weldwood brush on cement to stick it on .
I just brush the cement on let it sit for about 2 mins then stick the vinyl on
Make sure to make drip panels first,then cover the whole door.
NOTE use a phillips screwdriver to poke holes into the door clip holes and the bolt holes for the arm rest or the door panel will not snap into place.
NOTE one other thing to consider you can remove the window lift assembly if the window is in the up position use blue tape to hold the window up.
remove the wires then the 4 bolts then slide the assembly to the rear of the door and out the big opening.
What you need to do with the lift arm is make sure the lift arm pivot is free.
First remove the bolts that attach the motor to the gear case.
Then use PB blaster on the arm pivot,
once it will easily travel to its stop with the spring then you can move on.
Then lubricate the pivot with oil or some other long term lubricant,
put some grease into the gear case ,
then spray some Deoxit 100 into the motor brushes and lube up the motor bearings.
Next look at the arm stops they will probably be crumbling , the best thing to use is a sidewall of a tire.
cut it so the piece will fit into the slot then sit proud about 1.5 mm then clamp it ,
the internal part of the clamp has a ridge that will hold the rubber in place.
Install the motor onto the arm then reverse the operation to put it back together.
get two smaller sized zip ties and put them around each guide collar.
This will take up the space between the center tube and the collar,
and stop the rattle,
also check the guide bolts they will come loose.
I like to use a clear shower curtain from the BBB store ,
its vinyl, I also use the Weldwood brush on cement to stick it on .
I just brush the cement on let it sit for about 2 mins then stick the vinyl on
Make sure to make drip panels first,then cover the whole door.
NOTE use a phillips screwdriver to poke holes into the door clip holes and the bolt holes for the arm rest or the door panel will not snap into place.
NOTE one other thing to consider you can remove the window lift assembly if the window is in the up position use blue tape to hold the window up.
remove the wires then the 4 bolts then slide the assembly to the rear of the door and out the big opening.
What you need to do with the lift arm is make sure the lift arm pivot is free.
First remove the bolts that attach the motor to the gear case.
Then use PB blaster on the arm pivot,
once it will easily travel to its stop with the spring then you can move on.
Then lubricate the pivot with oil or some other long term lubricant,
put some grease into the gear case ,
then spray some Deoxit 100 into the motor brushes and lube up the motor bearings.
Next look at the arm stops they will probably be crumbling , the best thing to use is a sidewall of a tire.
cut it so the piece will fit into the slot then sit proud about 1.5 mm then clamp it ,
the internal part of the clamp has a ridge that will hold the rubber in place.
Install the motor onto the arm then reverse the operation to put it back together.
#7
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Got it! Thanks to everyone. At first I thought it was a door rattle as normally our cars are really tight. Since my car has been completely apart for painting, one starts to blow off a rattle here and there. I'm on it!