Electrical
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From: Grosse Pointe, Mi
Electrical
Well, the car had been sitting in the garage for a couple weeks. I decided to start it up and take it for a spin. I like to let it warm up for a couple minute before I drive it. Started it up, went back in the house for a couple minutes, came back and the voltmeter was dancing, radio was cutting in and out, interior lights dimming, etc. I shut the car off for a few minutes, started it, and the same thing happened. I decided to check the windows, lights, moonroof...all working fine. I turned on the rear defrost and the light for the switch blew(smoke from the switch). Now I'm freakin'. I turned the to shut off the motor, pulled the keay out of the ignition...CAR STILL RUNNING. I put the key back in the ignition, squealed the starter and it finally shut off. At this point I had enough and went to bed. The next morning when I went to start the car she fired up no problem, voltmeter @a steady 14, no dimming lights, no problems. I check all the ground points and all seem fine. Been running flawless for a week now. What do you think?
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From: Nova Scotia
BTW, to stall the eng., it's a little easier on the ring gear/starter to stand on the brakes, slip into gear and drop the clutch.
As to the 'nutty' electrical problem, the part re. the eng. continuing to run after you had 'shut it off ' and removed the key - my first suspect would be the ignition switch!!
As to the 'nutty' electrical problem, the part re. the eng. continuing to run after you had 'shut it off ' and removed the key - my first suspect would be the ignition switch!!
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From: St. John's, NF, Canada
I'll second with Garth on this one. I recall a post some time back on a similar topic and someone mentioned that the electrical connector on the back of the ignition switch can work it's way loose over time. The fix might be as simple as reconnection this plug...seem to recall that these is a screw that holds this in place, but not sure about that.
Based on my experience, you should be able to access the back of the ignition switch without removing the pod by loosening the pod retaining bolts a bit (or just removing the right-hand side ones anyway). you should be able to gently lift the pod up and over to access the ignition switch stalk on the column. If you have small hands, you might even try getting at it from under the dash. Tight, but you may be able to determine if the ignition switch electrical connector is loose that way.
Check the archives for more on this problem...lots of posts in there, I beleive.
Regards,
SteveCo in St. John's
Based on my experience, you should be able to access the back of the ignition switch without removing the pod by loosening the pod retaining bolts a bit (or just removing the right-hand side ones anyway). you should be able to gently lift the pod up and over to access the ignition switch stalk on the column. If you have small hands, you might even try getting at it from under the dash. Tight, but you may be able to determine if the ignition switch electrical connector is loose that way.
Check the archives for more on this problem...lots of posts in there, I beleive.
Regards,
SteveCo in St. John's
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From: Grosse Pointe, Mi
Ive been driving the car for 3 weeks since it happen and no problems. I did take the advice of Wally P and clean up the electrical (points, relays, etc.) That was quite time consuming but I bet well worth it. Thanks for the help!
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From: Anaheim California
the running on after the key is turned off CAN BE a bad wiring harness on the front of the engine the alternator , oil pressure oil level etc. if it shorts out the wrong wires it can feed back and continue to run . I have not traced the wires to determine exactly how that can happen simply noting that it HAS happened to several early cars . It is also possible that the electrical portion of the ignition switch is failing this has caused cars to start running by themself ......when the switch falls apart and shorts internally SO please use your parking brake!
