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Old style fuse replacement.

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Old Apr 10, 2018 | 06:03 AM
  #1  
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Default Old style fuse replacement.

Hi,

This is really a newbie and stupid question but, as I've read here many times the only stupid questions are the ones that are not asked, here it goes!
What is the best and more secure way to replace an old style (ceramic, bullet) fuse in my 83S?
First step in security disconnect the battery, that one I know...
Besides having some physical difficulty to reach the fuse board in perfect condition, I know that one of the tabs "moves" to better accommodate the fuse. Is it the upper or lower tab?
Is there some recommended specific tool to do the job?
Thanks in advance for your answer and also suggestions!

Regards
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Old Apr 10, 2018 | 06:21 AM
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The top tab is the one that moves. A pair of needle nose pliers or your fingers are the best tool to remove the fuses. They come out pretty easily.
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Old Apr 10, 2018 | 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by The Forgotten On
The top tab is the one that moves. A pair of needle nose pliers or your fingers are the best tool to remove the fuses. They come out pretty easily.
Thank you very much!!
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Old Apr 10, 2018 | 11:36 AM
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the spade fuses are better. i recommend chopping up and rewiring the old CE panel with an later model fuse top... LOL
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Old Apr 10, 2018 | 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Ducman82
the spade fuses are better. i recommend chopping up and rewiring the old CE panel with an later model fuse top... LOL
Already re-wired my 81 fuse panel to work with LH / EZF...... now I gotta do that too????
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Old Apr 10, 2018 | 12:55 PM
  #6  
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That's exactly what I wanted to do when I had my 84! I HATED those damned bullet fuses. I never had the guts or necessary knowledge to follow through with it, but I still really wanted to do it.
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Old Apr 10, 2018 | 06:55 PM
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Really? I don't mind the bullet fuses. Old school for sure, but good enough in my experience! I do inspect them and every year or two give them all a gentle wiggle back and forth to keep their contacts clean.

To the OP: The fuses are super simple. Grab the fuse with one hand, then gently lift up the upper tab with the other hand. The fuses have pointy ends so you have to lift up enough to clear the tip. You can also gently push down on the fuse while you're gripping it if you need a little extra clearance. Don't let the fuse fall down. I've never used any tool in removing or installing the fuses (or disconnected the battery for a fuse change, for that matter).

While you're in there, make sure all the fuses are seated properly/firmly, and give them all a twist back and forth. If any seem too loose, you can gently bend either of the tabs to increase the holding tension (though I've never had to do that either).
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Old Apr 10, 2018 | 08:33 PM
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The only way these fuses pose an issue is when the seal around the recirc housing fails and water leaks onto the CE panel. At that point however corroded fuses are the least of your worries.

The old fuses also make it super easy to inspect the fuses for any failures.
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Old Apr 10, 2018 | 10:48 PM
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I saw a kit or something somewhere, that converted the bullet style to blade style...essentially 2 spade connectors on wire ends and a fuse holder....maybe Carl had them...?
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Old Apr 11, 2018 | 08:16 AM
  #10  
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Only use good quality bullet fuses real copper or brass,,, The cheap generic auto parts store fuses are made from aluminum and react with the brass fuse holders. This causes the fuse holder and the fuse to corrode quickly and makes an open circuit. Now you have a new looking good fuse and a circuit that still doesn't work..
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Old Apr 11, 2018 | 11:59 AM
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I saw a kit or something somewhere, that converted the bullet style to blade style...essentially 2 spade connectors on wire ends and a fuse holder....maybe Carl had them...?
When leaves and debris accumulate in the cowl, they can plug the cowl drain. Then, water builds up until eventually it drips in to the inside of the car and unfortunately, right on to the fuse panel.
It usually causes bad corrosion on just one or two fuse holders, making their electrical connection real iffy on the early cars.

This little kit was developed so that the owner of such a car could repair his old fuse panel a few times before replacing the whole thing entirely.
https://928motorsports.com/parts/fusepanelrepair.php






Last edited by Carl Fausett; Apr 12, 2018 at 10:48 AM.
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Old Apr 11, 2018 | 10:08 PM
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Yes! I thought it was you!

Thanks Carl.
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Old Apr 11, 2018 | 11:45 PM
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I burned out 2 pump relays before I found a bad contact at the relevant fuse - actual sparks seen! So, I built some adapters to use blade fuses that fit into the original connections in place, once the bullet fuse connections are pulled out. I have now done all the high drain positions now - pump, horn, headlights and motor etc. One small issue with a dry solder joint, but all working well now for 5+ years. There is a separate thread here by me on how I did it. Its well worth pulling and cleaning the top contacts, restoring some tension, and applying some Deoxit or similar. The lower contacts dont come out, so all you can do is clean in place, and Deoxit.
Check out this thread - https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...sockets-4.html

jp 83 Euro S AT 57k

Last edited by jpitman2; Apr 12, 2018 at 12:01 AM.
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Old Aug 29, 2020 | 10:22 PM
  #14  
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What replacement fuse should I use? Is this the right one?

https://www.amazon.com/50Pcs-European-Automotive-Assortment-Bakelite/dp/B07F2739HM/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=bullet+fuse&qid=1598750489&sr=8-2 https://www.amazon.com/50Pcs-European-Automotive-Assortment-Bakelite/dp/B07F2739HM/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=bullet+fuse&qid=1598750489&sr=8-2
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Old Aug 29, 2020 | 11:19 PM
  #15  
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Get ceramic fuses.

Check this out for ideas to refurb further - Dave doesn't post much here anymore - but he did a lot of work to his early car https://members.rennlist.com/sharksk...04-Bzzzzzt.htm

Alan
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