I have a leaking fuel injector, can you rebuild? thanks
#4
Chronic Tool Dropper
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In the US, you can get replacement hose pieces and sections from any of our forum sponsors, including 928 International, 928 Specialists, 928SRUS, plus some who aren't 928-specific. A phone call to any of them will get you what you need to do the whole project at once. Greg Brown here in the forum offers some pretty nice upgrades to many of the lines in the engine bay and under the body in the the rear. The uprated hoses are better suited to longer-term exposure to "modern" ethanol-contaminated fuels now sold here.
#5
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Were I to do it again I think I would convert to a modern injector and rail design.
OTOH doing the hoses isn't a hard job, sending the old injectors out for cleaning well worth it if you don't want to upgrade or change from stock.
OTOH doing the hoses isn't a hard job, sending the old injectors out for cleaning well worth it if you don't want to upgrade or change from stock.
#6
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Pull all injectors and rails, and carefully cut all hose bits from the barbs and from under the 'mushroom' captive end caps - these can be reused w/o clamps if done correctly.
Source a couple feet/half meter of the correct hose plus eight each of the small lower seals ( 311 133 261) and large upper seals ( 311 133 263) .... make up a jig to allow a razor blade/knife to square cut to EXACT length 8 pieces of replacement hose..
Lightly lube the ID of the hose ends, add 'cups', and reassemble: having the hoses to exact length keeps equal pressure on each injector post reassembly - I have never used FI hose clamps.
Worthwhile to clean the injectors prior to reassembly of the rails - soak pintle tips overnight in injector cleaner/diesel fuel/kerosene, etc: Arrange a battery source and a momentary switch to allow you to 'tap' the injector, as if it were in service to assure the pintle solenoid cycles correctly - they should all sound the same . If you have an air source, jig up clear hose with a few mls of WD-40 in it, and with ~ 20 psi air behind it, all connected to the top of the injector. With air on, and tapping the DC power, a clean injector will throw a conical spray ... gas can be used, but do so with caution - outdoors.
The remaining hose should cover the sections to the dampner and pressure regs. (3 in total IIRC).
Source a couple feet/half meter of the correct hose plus eight each of the small lower seals ( 311 133 261) and large upper seals ( 311 133 263) .... make up a jig to allow a razor blade/knife to square cut to EXACT length 8 pieces of replacement hose..
Lightly lube the ID of the hose ends, add 'cups', and reassemble: having the hoses to exact length keeps equal pressure on each injector post reassembly - I have never used FI hose clamps.
Worthwhile to clean the injectors prior to reassembly of the rails - soak pintle tips overnight in injector cleaner/diesel fuel/kerosene, etc: Arrange a battery source and a momentary switch to allow you to 'tap' the injector, as if it were in service to assure the pintle solenoid cycles correctly - they should all sound the same . If you have an air source, jig up clear hose with a few mls of WD-40 in it, and with ~ 20 psi air behind it, all connected to the top of the injector. With air on, and tapping the DC power, a clean injector will throw a conical spray ... gas can be used, but do so with caution - outdoors.
The remaining hose should cover the sections to the dampner and pressure regs. (3 in total IIRC).
#7
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For powering the injectors as Garth S suggests as part of a flush procedure, use a 9V transistor radio battery rather than a high-current 12V source. It will ve a lot closer to what the injectors see in normal service.
You can buy "pigtail" connectors at local parts places that will help with getting the loose injectors powered up. Remove the wire bale in the temp connector and you'll be able slide them on and off each injector without a fight.
O-rings get replaced too when the nozzles come out.
You can buy "pigtail" connectors at local parts places that will help with getting the loose injectors powered up. Remove the wire bale in the temp connector and you'll be able slide them on and off each injector without a fight.
O-rings get replaced too when the nozzles come out.