Reading through the forums (as well as the WSM) the general advice is to remove the two transaxle mount bolts and move the transmission to the rear to release the pins holding the bellhousing clamshell together (Im assuming this applies to automatics as well as manuals). I managed to get the bolts off after removing the transmission reservoir but how do I lever the transmission back? I coudnt get it to budge!

Also anther tip was to remove the crankmshaft bolt before removing the engine. It came out easily with an impact wrench but the spacer popped out and Im not sure of its original orientation. Which side of the spacer faces outwards the flat side or the side with a bevel/recess
Thanks
Sam

 

The transaxle mount bolts you seek are the vertical bolts passing up through the suspension crossmember into the bottoms of the mounts. No need to remove the reservoir for those two. I'm personally of the opinion that these bolts can be loosened but not removed.

Four bolts hold the bellhousing to the block. Two accessible from below, two from the top. The top two bolts are snug at the firewall, requiring a wrench with a little offset. The lower bellhousing inspection cover is off after removing the exhaust system. Mark the drive hub where it bolts to the flywheel so it can go back in original orientation, then take the bolts out that connect the drive to the flywheel. At this point, with engine supported from above, the bellhousing can be pried move back away from the block about half an inch, enough to get the indexing pins free. From the bottom you have easy access to pads at the flywheel junction on either side to pry on if needed. Support the bellhousing, and rock the engine a bit in the support, the bellhousing will come free with just a little effort.

The washer on the crankshaft nose is installed with the recessed/concave side towards the engine, flat side towards the bolt head.

 

Thanks! I did all the steps you mention but haven’t supported the engine yet so that’s probably the reason. Luckily I’ve been gentle so far so no harm done.

 

At some point you'll be hooking the engine hoist to the engine. Use a "load balancer" so you can shift the weight around some as you initially lift it out. You'll unbolt the motor mounts and brackets after the hoist is attached and loaded slightly, so you can move the block up and forward slightly with the hoist. At that point you -may- need to pry a little to separate the bellhousiing, but it won't take a lot. Have a safety stand under the bellhousing.

 

 

Put the engine crane in from the side rather than the front. Put a heavy movers blanket over the fender and wheel.