Help! Error type 12??
#16
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Based on everything you have said - I'd suspect a ground strap issue (else battery or primary wiring connections elsewhere).
Try this: tug on the battery strap* at the battery end - tug on the battery strap at the car ground point end - then for good measure tug on it in the middle.
* wiggle it up/down & side to side
If the car starts (or even just cranks) after this - then replace the ground strap (it won't last)...
I this makes no difference then use a booster cable to supplement the ground strap from the battery lug right to the ground point and see if that helps. If yes - replace the ground strap.
If no joy then start cleaning & evaluating all the primary connections (power & ground) from battery to the starter & CE panel. battery to starter, starter to alternator, alternator to jump post, jump post to CE, frame to engine block ground.
Also take the battery in and have it tested on a proper heavy duty load tester (not a handheld device).
Alan
Try this: tug on the battery strap* at the battery end - tug on the battery strap at the car ground point end - then for good measure tug on it in the middle.
* wiggle it up/down & side to side
If the car starts (or even just cranks) after this - then replace the ground strap (it won't last)...
I this makes no difference then use a booster cable to supplement the ground strap from the battery lug right to the ground point and see if that helps. If yes - replace the ground strap.
If no joy then start cleaning & evaluating all the primary connections (power & ground) from battery to the starter & CE panel. battery to starter, starter to alternator, alternator to jump post, jump post to CE, frame to engine block ground.
Also take the battery in and have it tested on a proper heavy duty load tester (not a handheld device).
Alan
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Assuming that the ground strap is good and that the battery connections are good, clean and tight...
We are all assuming that the "Reconditioned fitted in Dec" starter hasn't failed. If the ground strap is ruled-out, I would want to throw on a different starter unless the provenance of the 'reconditioned' starter was well understood. After that, it's time to breakout the wiring diagrams and meters.
IMO, the quality of rebuilt starters - even those in a Bosch box - has been on the decline for a while. I would not be shocked if a no-name rebuilt starter acquired for short money went t*ts up after a couple of weeks.
We are all assuming that the "Reconditioned fitted in Dec" starter hasn't failed. If the ground strap is ruled-out, I would want to throw on a different starter unless the provenance of the 'reconditioned' starter was well understood. After that, it's time to breakout the wiring diagrams and meters.
IMO, the quality of rebuilt starters - even those in a Bosch box - has been on the decline for a while. I would not be shocked if a no-name rebuilt starter acquired for short money went t*ts up after a couple of weeks.
#18
Right, update. The dash lights are back on for no apparent reason.... However, still no start. Cranks hard but doesn’t fire. Fuel pump runs when pins jumped so I changed the fuel relay to rule that out as the issue. Pulled a spark plug - plug dry and got spark. So tomorrow going to see if there’s fuel on the supply line at the fuel rail. I’m starting to think the injectors aren’t firing.
#19
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OK change out the ground strap (classic behavior). If you don't this symptom is likely to reappear.There is a secondary issue for the starting, but your primary failure mode is clearly intermittent in nature.
I'd still get the battery tested - it may still be too low - even if it can crank the engine over.
Alan
I'd still get the battery tested - it may still be too low - even if it can crank the engine over.
Alan
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I hate intermittent 'lectrical issues.
You are likely correct that the injectors aren't being grounded (so as to 'fire.')
With none of the other evidence presented in this thread, it would be natural to assume that you LH has failed (as they all have already, or will.)
However, with the evidence from this thread, it is more likely that you still have a 'current' issue. Bad, poor grounds are the next suspect.
For the LH, the two primary grounds are at the back of the block in the general vicinity of the MAF. If they were already 'about to go', R&Ring the MAF might have been the final straw.
A long time ago I posted a picture of where these grounds are, but I can't find it right now.
You are likely correct that the injectors aren't being grounded (so as to 'fire.')
With none of the other evidence presented in this thread, it would be natural to assume that you LH has failed (as they all have already, or will.)
However, with the evidence from this thread, it is more likely that you still have a 'current' issue. Bad, poor grounds are the next suspect.
For the LH, the two primary grounds are at the back of the block in the general vicinity of the MAF. If they were already 'about to go', R&Ring the MAF might have been the final straw.
A long time ago I posted a picture of where these grounds are, but I can't find it right now.
#21
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still waiting for answer about post 7............. how about it dawg
#22
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It would be good to know what was happening when you turned the key to Ignition - without trying to start?
Did you get dash warning lights (in bulb test mode) or none? assuming that even if you got them - they then all went out while trying to start?
The more exact/concise info you give us the better and less iterative the diagnosis is...
Alan
Did you get dash warning lights (in bulb test mode) or none? assuming that even if you got them - they then all went out while trying to start?
The more exact/concise info you give us the better and less iterative the diagnosis is...
Alan