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Ok, got it out by screwing a lag bolt into the rubber hose and pulling it out through the hole. .
Crazy thing is that after drying the gas off it, I connect the flying leads to a 12v power supply and it seems to run fine. Did not try pumping gas with it. The rubber hose seems eaten as well. very crumbly.
Leaves me wondering if there was some sort of cathodic process eating the metal and the crystals are what is left of the aluminum. The aluminum oxide. I have heard of this in water, but never in gas.
Obviously my hope that the threaded collar in the tank was ok was wishful thinking.
Originally Posted by neuperg
Leaves me wondering if there was some sort of cathodic process eating the metal and the crystals are what is left of the aluminum. The aluminum oxide. I have heard of this in water, but never in gas.
That is some messed up $h1+. You don't have a specified location so I don't know if you are in the U.S.... but, I've never seen nor heard of anything in gas eating the aluminum like that even with the Ethanol-laden gas we are forced to buy.
Makes me wonder what was used to clean the tank N years ago (Simple Green?) and if a 1/2 gallon of it was left in the tank.
The real question is, is the tank toast?
No idea. The tank material itself is pretty resilient. The threaded collar (lack thereof) is a big problem. There are some threads 'round these parts detailing how folks have fixed it.
Edit: I would also be worried about whatever ate-up the aluminum has done to the rest of the fuel system: injectors, rails, cooler, hard lines, hoses...
Interesting that the aluminum on the body of the pump is not touched. Just the tank boss and the bulkhead of the pump were eroded.
For purposes of discussion the key word here is "corrosion" not "erosion" or so I would suggest. Galvanic corrosion- if that is the cause - could eat at the nozzle preferentially if there is appropriate cathodic potential and an electrolyte [i.e. water] in play but it is difficult to fathom out how that could be the case. Corrosion can occur through bacterial action [this used to be a problem in aircraft fuel tanks many years ago] but why it would be so localised to attack the nozzle and not the pump casing is beyond me.
Sounds like something Curt needs to chip into. Now the question is what condition is the rest of the system in and whether anyone has seen anything vaguely like this!
OP this info should have been in the first thread.
The more accurate info you provide the better the diagnosis will be .
This is pretty important to know when trying to guess a fuel system failure
Recap:
Car has been sitting ~ 3 years in no start condition with ~ 1/2 tank fuel.
Prior to no start, the car had been driven ~ 900 miles after having tank flushed and both fuel pumps. fuel filter as well as the small interconnecting hose replaced.
1. I siphoned ~ 8 gal of gas out of the tank before starting to loosen hoses
2. I loosened hose at the external fuel pump first and was surprised that no gas came out.
based on the picture, I would suggest to replace the following parts.
If you dont your going to be repeating this work or looking at a non running engine
get another tank, good used will work,
New fuel sender,I will bet the inside of the sender is filled with rust and will fall apart if taken apart
New 1 inch transfer hose, tank body to vent port
New external fuel pump, your choice on model since the one you have is done.
New fuel filter , goes without saying.
New short flex hose, pump to tank strainer or intank pump.. NOTE this means there are two different hoses so know that.
New short curved metal line , from pump to filter.
New.. either a intank pump or fuel strainer. NOTE this means there are two different hoses so know that.
NOTE based on the interior tank photo this fuel supply system needs to be replaced,
I would not try to rescue these parts .
Also while your waiting for new parts to arrive ,
remove the fuel injectors and send them off to withchunter,
replace the fuel lines in the engine bay,
inspect the fuel rails , replace if filled with rust,
Inspect the dampers and the fuel pressure regulator my guess is they will all need to be replaced
NOTE replace the short fuel hose that connects to the fuel sender with the tank removed.
NOTE inspect the feed and return hard lines under the car for corrosion blow them out with air to see if they are damaged
I would estimate your looking at about 3500.00 in parts to fix this fuel system.
Agree on taking a close look at the sender. Pulled this one last week because the return was clogged up. Took me an hour of cleaning, after it soaked in acetone over night to get it to flow again.
FWIW with a rusty sender the part thats corroding is the fuel return tube inside the outer aluminum housing,
NOTE after the original steel tube is exposed to moisture it will begin rusting again and contaminate the whole fuel system.
NOTE the best thing to do is install a new sender.
as replacing the whole fuel system can cost thousands of dollars
I have seen a few of these fuel system issues.
I believe the ethanol is partially to blame,
also storing the car with a less than full tank ,
and having the car exposed to temp swings that run it from below freezing to above ,
this causes condensation to occur ,
the water attacks the metal in the system
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
02-04-2018, 07:57 PM
George Layton March 2014