wheel bearing 999.053.050.00 vs 999.053.55.02 ?
01-25-2018, 06:02 AM
#1
Burning Brakes
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wheel bearing 999.053.050.00 vs 999.053.55.02 ?
I am in need of redoing my rear wheel bearings. I was wondering if the superceeded part # xxx..055.02 is superior in any way to the original Porsche one that is xxx..050.00 ?
Also any guess as to how many hours labor I might be looking at for these rear bearings to be replaced?
Also any guess as to how many hours labor I might be looking at for these rear bearings to be replaced?
01-25-2018, 01:05 PM
#2
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The 02 versions last 41 years !! 
As far as time it depends greatly on the experience level of the mechanic and the tools used..... Most end up taking the rear suspension all apart to get the wheel upright off to use a press to remove and install the bearing.. A few have an on the car pressing tool which makes it simpler or using caveman technology it can be done on the car with a large slide hammer and some threaded rod....
As far as time it depends greatly on the experience level of the mechanic and the tools used..... Most end up taking the rear suspension all apart to get the wheel upright off to use a press to remove and install the bearing.. A few have an on the car pressing tool which makes it simpler or using caveman technology it can be done on the car with a large slide hammer and some threaded rod....
01-25-2018, 02:20 PM
#3
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No opinion on the bearing differences.
The amount of time to budget varies depending on the replacement method. The common method includes removal of the rear carriers and having bearings pressed in. Then back together and a wheel alignment. Highlights include disconnecting and removing service and parking brakes, removal of the half-shafts, pull the bottom pin and disconnect the top radius arm. The carriers come out and go to a machine shop with a press.
Alternative methods allow you to leave the carrier in place, saving the suspension disassembly and alignment steps. Folks use a big slide-hammer or a purpose-made press fixture to get the drive hub and bearing out, and a screw press to put things back together. These are the same tools used to change cartridge-style wheel bearings on many front-wheel-drive cars as well as the rear bearings on other RWD or AWD Porsche models including 911 variants. I use a tool package "Sir Tools B90" that includes what's needed for the actual stub axle and bearing R&R. The only additional interesting tools needed are a large snap-ring pliers, and for me a MAPP gas torch and sacrificial chisel to get the inner bearing race off the drive hub. This method takes maybe a few hours to do both sides, working slowly and carefully.
A few of us have the tool sets and shared them around. The last couple "shares" resulted in some serious storage-case damage due to poor packing, so at this point anyway mine is available for local use only. There have been a few sets with east-coast owners, certainly worth asking. I know there was one a bit north of you in NJ, but the IIRC owner has since sold his car. Might be an opportunity to own one if he's done with it. The toolsets are available from the normal online sources, and have been priced consistently at about the expected labor costs for having the work done at an independent shop. The actual pieces needed for the 928 bearings are a subset of the master kit, and you can shop for the sub-kit.
There are some good write-ups here that include using a rented slide-hammer axle-puller with a simple screw press kit you can find at Harbor Freight. Success with this method varies, based on how "stuck" the drive hub is in the bearing and how big the slide hammer is.
The amount of time to budget varies depending on the replacement method. The common method includes removal of the rear carriers and having bearings pressed in. Then back together and a wheel alignment. Highlights include disconnecting and removing service and parking brakes, removal of the half-shafts, pull the bottom pin and disconnect the top radius arm. The carriers come out and go to a machine shop with a press.
Alternative methods allow you to leave the carrier in place, saving the suspension disassembly and alignment steps. Folks use a big slide-hammer or a purpose-made press fixture to get the drive hub and bearing out, and a screw press to put things back together. These are the same tools used to change cartridge-style wheel bearings on many front-wheel-drive cars as well as the rear bearings on other RWD or AWD Porsche models including 911 variants. I use a tool package "Sir Tools B90" that includes what's needed for the actual stub axle and bearing R&R. The only additional interesting tools needed are a large snap-ring pliers, and for me a MAPP gas torch and sacrificial chisel to get the inner bearing race off the drive hub. This method takes maybe a few hours to do both sides, working slowly and carefully.
A few of us have the tool sets and shared them around. The last couple "shares" resulted in some serious storage-case damage due to poor packing, so at this point anyway mine is available for local use only. There have been a few sets with east-coast owners, certainly worth asking. I know there was one a bit north of you in NJ, but the IIRC owner has since sold his car. Might be an opportunity to own one if he's done with it. The toolsets are available from the normal online sources, and have been priced consistently at about the expected labor costs for having the work done at an independent shop. The actual pieces needed for the 928 bearings are a subset of the master kit, and you can shop for the sub-kit.
There are some good write-ups here that include using a rented slide-hammer axle-puller with a simple screw press kit you can find at Harbor Freight. Success with this method varies, based on how "stuck" the drive hub is in the bearing and how big the slide hammer is.