My first motor mount/oil pan gasket/steering rack bushing job. Worklog. 92 GTS. - Page 2 - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums

Go Back  Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums > Water Cooled Technical Discussion Areas > 928 Forum
Reload this Page > My first motor mount/oil pan gasket/steering rack bushing job. Worklog. 92 GTS.
Notices
928 Forum
Sponsored by: 928 Specialists
Sponsored by: 928 Specialists

My first motor mount/oil pan gasket/steering rack bushing job. Worklog. 92 GTS.

Reply

Old 01-05-2018, 11:27 AM
  #16
paalw
Addict
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
paalw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 394
Default

I hear what you say about the strap. I am not concerned about it snapping if using a heavy duty one, but I see the point of not being able to adjust it. I'll use the eye bolt setup. Thanks.
paalw is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 01-05-2018, 02:30 PM
  #17
StratfordShark
Addict
Rennlist Member
 
StratfordShark's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Stratford-upon-Avon
Posts: 2,473
Default

Originally Posted by DeWolf View Post
I removed the all the power steering hoses and pump etc on that side and the air-con compressor and bracket the other side and removed the radiator. Then got them from underneath with a long breaker bar towards the front of the car.
Thanks for explaining. I think I'll take my chances in future with the horizontal support bolts!
StratfordShark is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 01-05-2018, 05:27 PM
  #18
gbarron
User
 
gbarron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 154
Default

I used something similar to this:





Amazon Amazon

I happened to find one for sale locally for cheap as the guy was done his repairs and didn't have to space to store it. Now I have it stored for future repairs when necessary. The home-built wood style will do the job as well.
gbarron is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2018, 03:21 PM
  #19
paalw
Addict
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
paalw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 394
Default

I went home made style. Lift support, check. Pre lift height with old mounts measured. And steering rack is lowered. That is all for today. So far so good. I also see the steering rack rubber is showing signs of age, no holes, but I think I'll replace them too while I'm at it.



paalw is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2018, 06:46 PM
  #20
Mrmerlin
Petie3rd
Rennlist Member

This Post Sponsored by:
Dow Corning« & DeoxIT«
 
Mrmerlin's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Philly PA
Posts: 20,828
Default

Please add another 2x4 to that cross bar its holding up 500 LBS,
one is asking for trouble.
ALSO put some hardware into the side braces to the cross bar so they dont move ,
maybe you have them coming from the bottom?
Mrmerlin is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2018, 09:11 PM
  #21
[email protected]
Addict
Rennlist Member
 
j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Park Ridge, IL (near Chicago)
Posts: 2,408
Default

Sorry to interrupt, but I cannot tell if the engine bay strut brace is in place or removed in the course of lifting the engine for subsequent crossmember removal. I never gave it much thought until now, but is it OK to have the lower crossmember out as well as the strut brace. I could see where the front of the car could move from lack of support.
Thanks and again sorry,
Dave
j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2018, 04:38 AM
  #22
paalw
Addict
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
paalw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 394
Default

Originally Posted by Mrmerlin View Post
Please add another 2x4 to that cross bar its holding up 500 LBS,
one is asking for trouble.
ALSO put some hardware into the side braces to the cross bar so they dont move ,
maybe you have them coming from the bottom?
From bottom

Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
Sorry to interrupt, but I cannot tell if the engine bay strut brace is in place or removed in the course of lifting the engine for subsequent crossmember removal. I never gave it much thought until now, but is it OK to have the lower crossmember out as well as the strut brace. I could see where the front of the car could move from lack of support.
Thanks and again sorry,
Dave
Good point, I hope someone will clarify. Mine is out..
paalw is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2018, 08:44 AM
  #23
Mrmerlin
Petie3rd
Rennlist Member

This Post Sponsored by:
Dow Corning« & DeoxIT«
 
Mrmerlin's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Philly PA
Posts: 20,828
Default

the chassis bar being out shouldnt damage anything the whole idea was that the windshield might crack if the bar was removed.


In the picture with the single piece of 2X4 and the eye bolt going through.

that needs to have the wood doubled or better use a 4x4.

WARNING The single board spanning the engine bay might not be strong enough to hold 500lbs thus the engine could fall

the single piece could fail as its not being used in the strongest direction of the wood,
and you also want to attach the edges of the cross bar to the boards sitting in the fender channel so the board wont slip..

Ideally you might also put a bolt into the crossmember tube bolt hole for each channel board to hold it in place as well as securing the cross brace .
Mrmerlin is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2018, 03:01 PM
  #24
dr bob
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
 
dr bob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Bend, Oregon
Posts: 16,303
Default

The crossbar is not a critical piece while there is no load on the suspension. The warning about lifting the car with the crossbar removed is aimed at lifting from one front jack point only, where there's risk of twisting the body structure. Using the scissors lift as the OP illustrates, no worries about that crossbar being out.

Stan's mention of the bridge structure is spot-on. A couple 2x6's made into a crossbeam is much better, with a top 2x6 "plate" for the bolt and washers to pull on.

While I was in SoCal, we had access to a real metal engine support for clinic events similar to the one illustrated in post 18 above, thanks to Rob Edwards' generosity. After receiving asylum in Oregon several years ago now, I decided to mix a 25%-off Harbor Freight holiday coupon with a gift card to add one of those supports to my own tool inventory. They sell for around $75 if you time the purchase well, and remove all the casual fear I have about my structural calcs and the variability of lumber strength. There's nothing quite like working under the car with masses of critical stuff supported on makeshift structures. Sometimes you get to hear the first crackles that signal impending failure. You have time to get the first "oh..." out as you try and squirm out from underneath. Sometimes you don't. In my limited experience, the gravity is faster than my lateral squirming. Invest well in your personal safety, live long enough to enjoy the fruits of your work.
dr bob is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2018, 03:54 PM
  #25
paalw
Addict
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
paalw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 394
Default

I'm having trouble seeing where it might fail. The 2x4s are lined parallell to the fenders in a "V", it is a snug fit, and it can not go anywhere neither back(upwards) or forward. And looking at the support in action, I'm having trouble seeing how it could fail. Well maybe I'll find out the hard way.. At least I have added a couple of cargo straps as a kind of failsafe.

Anyway, the engine is lifted (without any drama, yet..) and the old mounts are out.

Next I guess will be trying to get to all the oil pan bolts and remove the pan. Any tricks there?



paalw is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2018, 04:30 PM
  #26
[email protected]
Addict
Rennlist Member
 
j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Park Ridge, IL (near Chicago)
Posts: 2,408
Default

Originally Posted by paalw View Post
I'm having trouble seeing where it might fail. The 2x4s are lined parallell to the fenders in a "V", it is a snug fit, and it can not go anywhere neither back(upwards) or forward. And looking at the support in action, I'm having trouble seeing how it could fail. Well maybe I'll find out the hard way.. At least I have added a couple of cargo straps as a kind of failsafe.

Anyway, the engine is lifted (without any drama, yet..) and the old mounts are out.

Next I guess will be trying to get to all the oil pan bolts and remove the pan. Any tricks there?



Great progress. I'll be watching.
Thanks for sharing.
Dave
j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2018, 05:15 PM
  #27
bureau13
Addict
Rennlist Member
 
bureau13's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: South Florida
Posts: 2,517
Default

So you trust that HF support? I've thought about picking up something like that for when I eventually do it. I just wasn't sure if that were more trustworthy than something DIY. Pelican has a similar device for over $400! Yikes...


Originally Posted by dr bob View Post
The crossbar is not a critical piece while there is no load on the suspension. The warning about lifting the car with the crossbar removed is aimed at lifting from one front jack point only, where there's risk of twisting the body structure. Using the scissors lift as the OP illustrates, no worries about that crossbar being out.

Stan's mention of the bridge structure is spot-on. A couple 2x6's made into a crossbeam is much better, with a top 2x6 "plate" for the bolt and washers to pull on.

While I was in SoCal, we had access to a real metal engine support for clinic events similar to the one illustrated in post 18 above, thanks to Rob Edwards' generosity. After receiving asylum in Oregon several years ago now, I decided to mix a 25%-off Harbor Freight holiday coupon with a gift card to add one of those supports to my own tool inventory. They sell for around $75 if you time the purchase well, and remove all the casual fear I have about my structural calcs and the variability of lumber strength. There's nothing quite like working under the car with masses of critical stuff supported on makeshift structures. Sometimes you get to hear the first crackles that signal impending failure. You have time to get the first "oh..." out as you try and squirm out from underneath. Sometimes you don't. In my limited experience, the gravity is faster than my lateral squirming. Invest well in your personal safety, live long enough to enjoy the fruits of your work.
bureau13 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2018, 05:32 PM
  #28
Basal Skull
Addict
Rennlist Member
 
Basal Skull's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Vancouver BC
Posts: 2,659
Default

Originally Posted by Mrmerlin View Post

In the picture with the single piece of 2X4 and the eye bolt going through.

that needs to have the wood doubled or better use a 4x4.

.
I think that's just an optical illusion in the pic and it is a 4x4.
Basal Skull is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2018, 06:13 PM
  #29
Mrmerlin
Petie3rd
Rennlist Member

This Post Sponsored by:
Dow Corning« & DeoxIT«
 
Mrmerlin's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Philly PA
Posts: 20,828
Default

Ahh OK upon closer inspection you are probably correct that its all good
Mrmerlin is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2018, 06:55 PM
  #30
dr bob
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
 
dr bob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Bend, Oregon
Posts: 16,303
Default

Originally Posted by bureau13 View Post
So you trust that HF support? I've thought about picking up something like that for when I eventually do it. I just wasn't sure if that were more trustworthy than something DIY. Pelican has a similar device for over $400! Yikes...

Mine worked perfectly the one time I used it. Rob's is a different color and more $$ from a different vendor, but to my expert eye looks to be the same tool. It rather effortlessly managed the weight of the S4 engine at the front bracket, including a few turns tightening to accommodate the slightly taller Volvo mounts. I had the car on the lift this time, vs the last time I did the mounts with the car on stands and the engine supported from below with a separate cradle and jack. That particular job pushed me to add a lift in the garage; I'm getting too old to be wrestling filthy engine and suspension parts around under the car on stands.

After that episode, I bought cases of engine cleaner to donate to clinic car owners to use before the car came in the driveway. I was about 50/50 success on that one. One clinic car owner came back proudly with 11 of the 12 cans unused; he did most of the work himself, having missed the point of the engine cleaner. If you are getting close to this surgery, invest in at least half a case of spray "Foamy Engine Bright" or similar, and use it all before you do any more than drop the belly pans.

The engine support thing is a tool I don't plan to use a lot. Still, it's the right tool for the job, and removes any doubt about how well a DIY work-around might fare. It shows up as an available community resource here, although the local fleet of candidate 928 users is pretty darn tiny here in the high desert of central Oregon. Pretty much new in box right now, with the only sign of use being a thin film of synthetic red grease on the threads of one of the J bolts. I'll use it for the Timing Belt/Water pump/Tensioner project on the Honda Pilot DD sometime next year. It will pay for itself again.
dr bob is offline  
Reply With Quote
 

Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Michael Benno
928 Forum
5
07-07-2017 09:19 AM
Simon928
928 Forum
20
02-07-2017 05:33 PM
Mrmerlin
928 Forum
87
09-02-2016 08:51 AM
Geo55
928 Forum
2
07-04-2016 02:10 PM

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -3. The time now is 12:30 PM.


Copyright ę 1998 - 2017 Rennlist.com We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
 
  • Ask a Question
    Get answers from community experts
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: