merchauser

Previously I posted about a bad hall sensor and help on removal.

Roger sent a new sensor in time for the weekend (thanks roger) and the sensor
made a HUGE difference in the car! noticeable from the first take off, out
of the driveway. All around gain across power band. Car revs nice and smooth
thru 5k, and is very different. plenty more acceleration. above 4k I would get
a tiny bit of hesitation, which is completely gone with new sensor.

I was lucky enough for a friend to share his bosch hammer and that's how I found out
that there was a short to ground with the hall sensor. I thought the car was fine,
because it idled well, and seemed to be OK all around; did not notice anything wrong,
but had no delta to compare to. But now.......what a difference.

replacing the sensor was certainly much easier because I deleted the air pump and all
brackets and smog related parts. certain that it is more of a PITA with all that in place.
I also found it best to remove the engine hoist bracket that comes out with a single 13mm bolt.

the lower bolt is easier to get at from below with a 1/4" drive 4mm allen bit, an extension and ratchet.
the upper one is a bit more challenging and might be easier with the RH cam cover off. I mentioned in
a previous post that I stripped out the upper one, but tapped it with a chisel and was able to back it off.

a better way to get it out would be to take a 4 mm allen wrench and cut off the 90' angle so its just a
straight piece. then use a 4mm socket a couple of long extensions so I you're clear of the shock tower
towards the firewall. that's how I put it back together

of note: the replacement hall sensor has a shorter pigtail and not enough wire to route properly in the
bracket behind the sensor. the correct positioning is for the sensor plug to face downward, and then you
plug the chassis harness in from below. (the original sensor pigtail starts down, and then has enough length to loop
around the top and allow the connector to slide in the bracket and face down.) the only way you could get the new one
to work, with the bracket, is either cut the sensor wires and splice in some wire to make an extension, or add
some wire to the main harness and allow the sensor connector to face upward. I did not want to make any cuts,
so I just positioned the connected plugs, as best I could, in the bracket.

if you are feeling a loss of power and all else seems fine, you may want to check out the hall sensor. it was
like remapping a chip; it made that much of a difference to the car!

SeanR

Chances are you needed to clear the code from the faulty hall sensor. So try that first, clear it then go drive a bit.

I've not noticed any difference in the length of the wire, but can't say i've looked all that close either. It's a bit tricky to get them on the bracket all the time.

merchauser

[QUOTEChances are you needed to clear the code from the faulty hall sensor. So try that first, clear it then go drive a bit.][/QUOTE]

hey Sean, all I did was leave the battery disconnected overnight. do you think I need to clear the codes with the hammer??? my buddy is going to lend it
to me tomorrow. without anything officially cleared, car runs much different. pigtail length is no big deal to me, especially since Roger price was 150 and he told
me the factory OEM bosch ending in 005 is more than double! I'll take the value sensor every day!

worf928

Yes, the new Hall sensors have a shorter pigtail harness.

No, it is not too short route properly:
- Loosen the set screw on the harness clamp on the sensor.
- Tug a tiny bit of slack out of the pigtail harness.
- Put harness connector into bracket's connector retainer.
- Wind sensor body into bracket body.
- Tighten set screw.
- Install assembly.

merchauser

Dave: I tried that, but it looked like there was too much tension on the wires direct at the magnet.
thought that would not be a good idea.

I would prefer to have it routed correctly, but that would mean I would have to take it out again!

I could be convinced to do it......?????

worf928

Not worth it. As long as the connector is secured to something on the engine and not flopping around.

merchauser

I was able to slide the smaller part of the connector, closer to the pigtail, but still part
of the plastic connector, into the bracket, and then pinch the outsides of the bracket
enough to keep it snug.