homan

while everything is out figuired I would replace the rear main seal the old one seemed to be flush with the block, but the seal is 12mm thick and the seal cavity appears to be about 15-16mm deep. So question is does it go flush, bottomed out in the cavity or slighly recessed, after all the work I've done I'd hate to have the old girl pee on the garage floor.

Mrmerlin

when fitting the new seal you should be aware of burrs on the removal groove ,
this should be smooth and can get deformed with the screwdriver blade,
a fine file will surface the area.

If you have a new style seal that is not not like the original,
the new part has metal sides for a portion of the area,
Then it may need to go in a bit further.

normal insertion is flush with the mounting bore

homan

Yes it was deburred. New seal is an elring oiled it up put it in flush and was able to pop it right out no effort whatsoever I'm going to put it in dry outside diameter with a bit of adhesive but need to know proper depth

Mrmerlin

to get it a bit further in the bore use a paint stick laid flat over the face of the seal,
it will deform slightly and thus press the seal a bit deeper into the bore, work slowly

Ad0911

I have an elring waiting to be installed. But this doesn't sound so good. What kind of adhesive did you use? I assume you only lubricated the crankshaft hole

davek9

You can also use a CPVC plastic pipe of the correct diameter to drive the seal in far/deep enough to COVER that slot, else it will leak and you will be back in there

The main thing is to keep it square, lube the inner rubber, break in lube work well.
You should not need any sealant or lube on the outer shell, just press it in square.

homan

I used clevite 77 assembly lube on the sealing lips as well as crankshaft I didn't feel all that comfortable with how easy the seal went in so along the whole outside diameter i put a thin layer of 3m 5200 silicone