Hello Gents,

So I recently had the front shifter ball coupling pop out on me as I was pulling in the drive way on a new (new to me) 928. So i ordered a new replacement from 928 motorsports.com which arrived a few days ago and I have been having a hell of a time getting the new one on.

What I've done so far:
-Removed exhaust and heat shielding for better access to the ball coupling.
-Unthreaded and removed the old ball coupling. The plastic insert was pretty far gone.
-Spent hours trying to figure out a way to thread on the new ball coupling.

Where I'm at now:
I can not for the life of me figure out how to thread the new coupling into the tube. I can get it about 3-4 turns threaded in and then it becomes much to difficult to thread any further due to lack of leverage and grip on the coupling. there is nothing to grab onto in order to torque in further in and I can't get a ratchet or wrench up into that spot. So I'm wondering, is this a common problem or is this abnormal? Should I be able to thread it all the way in with the very limited finger mobility I have in that cramp spot? Is there a trick to doing this that I am missing? Is the removal of the torque tube often needed to obtain greater leverage?

IDK...just really frustrated after spending an entire day trying to thread a bolt. Any help from those with experience doing this job would be greatly appreciated.

Thank You.

 

I have had to replace the ball cup on 2 of my 3 928,s. I replaced only the plastic insert and not the whole threaded cup, so not much help with that, either way I feel your pain, it is a bear. If you don’t mind unbolting your center console, you can buy a “lizard shifter from Roger, and do away with the front rod altogether. I am doing that to my 79.

 

I had a hell of a time adjusting it with the engine out and sitting comfortably with the torque tube at my lap. In your situation I would just replace the plastic insert on the stock piece.

 

Just replace the plastic bush - way easier.

 

Spray some Berrymans in the tube and blow out with compressed air, put the threaded cup in a freezer over night, spray some lubricant on the thread and try again? Else drop the torque tube?

 

^^ I agree .... but if you must replace the front coupler, try disconnecting the front rod from the gear lever, which allows you to swing the front end around to a (slightly) more accessible location. Just be careful you don't bend/damage the mount and plastic bearing/ring which it goes through.

 

Thanks for all the input, appreciate it.

 

That is abnormal. I wonder if a bit of dirt or debris got in there. Out of the vehicle, you should be able to easily thread it in and out with your fingers.

We also recommend that you lower your engine to make more room to work... many install this part while replacing their motor mounts and steering rack bushings at the same time. With the cross-member out and the motor mounts removed, you can lower the motor a tad and get good room to work on the shifter ball cup.

My email address and phone number are below - call or write me if we can help.

 

No doubt this is a tricky install, and I had the engine out at the time.

Now that it's back on the road, I rank it as one of the best mods, ever. Shifting is nice and tight with no vibration or noise - totally transformed my perception of the car.

BTW, I had to run a cleaner-tap on the female shifter-rod threads first; after that it screwed on easily.

 

Interesting. I'll check the batch I have in stock and make sure they don't have the same issue.

 

Carl no, your piece was good.

I had to clean out the female-end of the shifter rod as it was slightly corroded.

I edited my original post to make this clear.

 

After trying on the second day to thread on the new PC and being unsuccessful, I decided to try and see if the old one would thread on. It did and with great ease. Threaded it on and off twice within like 30 seconds. So since I am on a time crunch here in OKC I've decided to throw on a temporary fix by simply strapping the cable down to the coupling with the TT. This at least lets me move the car on its on power to a more desired location to work on it. I'm going to order a new replacement insert as I am done with that PC.

Little back story on the car and my position.

I've had it for about 8 years now but it's been in a storage unit for the last 3 years. I stored it after getting out of the military in a storage unit in OKC while I travelled the country for school and then work. Just now got a little time to pull it out and do some work on it. However that little bit of time is over as I have to head to Tampa for an interview but will be back working on it in a couple weeks or so...hopefully. It has some problems, always has, and I haven't really had the time to get to them while in the military or immediately after getting out. However I love the car and time is starting to come available along with the resources (money) so I'll be looking for a lot of advice on this forum in the near future with what I hope is common issues that will be relatively easy to diagnose. Been doing a lot of searches and have already starting compiling possible solutions to the current symptoms that I'll start checking off.

What would really be helpful is if there was someone very knowledgeable and familiar with 928's here on the forum that would be willing and able to give it a look over. I've tried calling local shops here and have been mostly unsuccessful in finding someone familiar with 928's. I live in Fort Walton Beach, FL. The car is located in OKC, OK but will be driving or flying to Tampa, FL this weekend for about a week. I may drive the car to Tampa, undecided on taking that chance (would rather replace old belts and hoses prior to any significant road time). Prior to storing the old car though, it did manage to make a trip from OK to TX and then over to Fort Knox, KY. If there is anyone around those areas or if you know any shops around these areas that would be beneficial to me, please let me know.

Thank you.

 

Would this list of shops that work on the 928 help?

It is sorted by City

https://928motorsports.com/parts/superinstall.cfm

 

I would plan my trip through Dallas and have SeanR look at it. Make sure you arrange a time in advance as I hear he books up quickly.

 

Thank you. This list does help out a lot. I'll be putting it to use once I sort out the brake lights.

I cannot drive right now though as the central warning light/Brake warning lights have come on and are not possible to reset while the brake lights are also not working. This was never an issue prior to storing it. Tried many suggestions I've found on the forums such as installing both new brake pressure switches under the master cylinder and checking fuses to no avail. Brakes feel absolutely fine so I do believe it to be an electrical malfunction and not a brake pressure one. When I pulled off the electrical contact boots to swap out the old for the new, I noticed the plastic covers would crumble under very little pressure. Very poor integrity in the plastic housing on those connectors. So I was wondering if anyone could explain to me a way to test those pressure switches and the electrical connections with a voltmeter?