1. Rear of lower control arm must be left very loose, so outer portion of rubber bushing can turn in the hole.

2. Lower shock mounting bolt (which is also upper sway bar link attachment) left loose enough so that the metal insert inside the bottom rubber in the shock can easily pivot....along with the upper sway bar link.

3. Lower sway bar link to sway bar bolt.

4. Upper control arm outer nuts.

Never switch lower A-arms from side to side. Never replace only one of the lower control arms. The front bushing is vulcanized to both the inner and outer pieces of aluminum. Because this is a "hard" attachment, that piece of rubber becomes a part of the spring rate of the car!

+1

This is not unique to the 928, every car ever made with rubber bushings this applies. Control arms, sway bars etc... Any suspension piece held in place by rubber (versus a solid type heim joint which is almost never found in production cars).

The idea is rubber bushings should be torqued at the "neutral" location. Some cars it's impossible to do this once dropped so you have to "best guess" and hold up the pieces while torqing the fastener.

True. You should see the preload on the rubber bushings on a 997TT. Bolt it up hard without the car on the ground and expect a 1-2" extra ride height....

Thanks guys... will check / re-torque with the weight on the car. Learn something new every day :)