intermittent NO crank.. what to look for
#1
intermittent NO crank.. what to look for
hi
79 has a problem of not cranking, intermittently,,i need to know what to look for.. i suspect the clutch switch but ,,
what else could it be??
i have already replaced the starter and the ignition switch
if it is the clutch switch,, could i just connect the two wires a to bypass is temporarily ?
thanks
79 has a problem of not cranking, intermittently,,i need to know what to look for.. i suspect the clutch switch but ,,
what else could it be??
i have already replaced the starter and the ignition switch
if it is the clutch switch,, could i just connect the two wires a to bypass is temporarily ?
thanks
#3
hello
sorry i wasnt aware i had to do that !!
Im Russ ,, i have a 79 928 5 speed that i got in a trade about 5 years ago...im a fan but dont know much a bout them so ??? the car has been sitting 15 years plus,,, it has been severely baked by the sun,, inside and out,, due to fuel pump problems and having idiots for owners,,, it has been messed with and fiddled with for ever,,,im trying to revive this car,,,, i have replaced the fuel pump.. repaired some wires on the panel and hit it with a hammer,,, now all the sudden it has intermittent no crank issues,, like i said i have replaced the starter and ignition switch. but still intermittently,, no crank,,,...so little help
plz
Russ
sorry i wasnt aware i had to do that !!
Im Russ ,, i have a 79 928 5 speed that i got in a trade about 5 years ago...im a fan but dont know much a bout them so ??? the car has been sitting 15 years plus,,, it has been severely baked by the sun,, inside and out,, due to fuel pump problems and having idiots for owners,,, it has been messed with and fiddled with for ever,,,im trying to revive this car,,,, i have replaced the fuel pump.. repaired some wires on the panel and hit it with a hammer,,, now all the sudden it has intermittent no crank issues,, like i said i have replaced the starter and ignition switch. but still intermittently,, no crank,,,...so little help
plz
Russ
#4
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From: Bend, Oregon
Russ --
The circuit passes current from the ignition switch, through a relay socket via a jumper (5-speed cars only), through Pin 1 of that 14-pin connector at the right front (that's the passenger side on US cars...) of the engine bay on the fenderwall, then through the front of engine wiring harness to the solenoid on the starter.
The 14-pin connectors are subject to corrosion from rain and car-wash water that flows down the right side of the hood, so an early step might be to clean the pins and little brass sockets in the connector. Use Care to not pull the cover off the top of that connector, and just "split" the two halves. Disconnect the battery ground strap first to avoid any sparks or other excitement. I use a brass-bristled "detailers brush" that's like an oversized toothbrush for the major part of this exercise, then a small jewelers or gunsmiths brush to get the female side of each connection. There's a handy product called DeOxit that will chemically clean a lot of the oxidation out.
The jumper I mentioned is in the socket for a relay in position XV in the central electrics panel. It connects pins 30 and 87, so that current from the ignition switch can pass through. No relay is installed in XV on 5-speed cars, just that jumper. If you have a DMM, you can test for voltage pass-through at that jumper, referenced to ground. You should see battery voltage there when the key is in position 3 (start). If voltage is erratic, look at the ignition switch and its wiring again. If voltage there is always present when key is in position 3, move on to the 14-pin connector and then through the wiring harness to the starter. Remember that the wiring harness across the front of the engine is now 40+ years old and by now extra-crispy. If it's the original, there's more than a very good case for rebuild or replacement of that harness. Our regular vendors offer these as rebuilds, usually with much more modern conductors (tinned copper marine cable) and all new connectors. 928 International, 928SRUS, Greg Brown at Precision in Anaheim, and Carl at 928 Motorsports all have premium offerings, usually for less than a new factory piece.
The circuit passes current from the ignition switch, through a relay socket via a jumper (5-speed cars only), through Pin 1 of that 14-pin connector at the right front (that's the passenger side on US cars...) of the engine bay on the fenderwall, then through the front of engine wiring harness to the solenoid on the starter.
The 14-pin connectors are subject to corrosion from rain and car-wash water that flows down the right side of the hood, so an early step might be to clean the pins and little brass sockets in the connector. Use Care to not pull the cover off the top of that connector, and just "split" the two halves. Disconnect the battery ground strap first to avoid any sparks or other excitement. I use a brass-bristled "detailers brush" that's like an oversized toothbrush for the major part of this exercise, then a small jewelers or gunsmiths brush to get the female side of each connection. There's a handy product called DeOxit that will chemically clean a lot of the oxidation out.
The jumper I mentioned is in the socket for a relay in position XV in the central electrics panel. It connects pins 30 and 87, so that current from the ignition switch can pass through. No relay is installed in XV on 5-speed cars, just that jumper. If you have a DMM, you can test for voltage pass-through at that jumper, referenced to ground. You should see battery voltage there when the key is in position 3 (start). If voltage is erratic, look at the ignition switch and its wiring again. If voltage there is always present when key is in position 3, move on to the 14-pin connector and then through the wiring harness to the starter. Remember that the wiring harness across the front of the engine is now 40+ years old and by now extra-crispy. If it's the original, there's more than a very good case for rebuild or replacement of that harness. Our regular vendors offer these as rebuilds, usually with much more modern conductors (tinned copper marine cable) and all new connectors. 928 International, 928SRUS, Greg Brown at Precision in Anaheim, and Carl at 928 Motorsports all have premium offerings, usually for less than a new factory piece.