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More specifically, what ancillaries have to come off? It looks like - never having done this - that most can stay in place since the engine comes out basically straight up. Not sure if the alternator / AC pump will foul anything when the engine is pulled forward to free it from the bellhousing etc...
More specifically, what ancillaries have to come off? It looks like - never having done this - that most can stay in place since the engine comes out basically straight up. Not sure if the alternator / AC pump will foul anything when the engine is pulled forward to free it from the bellhousing etc...
Thanks in advance for the coaching.
Removing as much accesssories as possible will make the lifting process so much easier, since the engine will be lighter and smaller. Follow the WSM. I did it without much trouble and I am a complete rookie.
Not to be obtuse, but you need to disconnect everything that holds engine to the car. Up and out is easiest. I highly suggest loosening the crank bolt and pulley before removing - much easier while in the car, plus it gives you more room. Then it's matter of hoses, wiring, and fuel lines. Disconnect the BH bolts (tough-ish), clutch, exhaust manifolds, and finally motor mounts. THen it's up and out.
It's a full day of wrenching for sure. Invite a friend or two and buy some beer and pizza. All will be good!
Not to be obtuse, but you need to disconnect everything that holds engine to the car.
It is that simple. Here are additional pointers.
Remove radiator.
Remove crank-bolt while in car, accessory belts easily removed now.
Disconnect the alternator/power-steering tensioner bracket with both still attached to it. Support them with a jack, or tie them up with a big zip tie.
Disconnect the torque tube from bellhousing, remove engine with bellhousing attached, with hoist at the front of the car.
I recently did one through the bottom. In my case on a 4 post lift in a 10 x 20 garage, so this was my only option due to space.
Engine went back in smoothly, only took about 3 hrs with no rushing.
But if you have a larger space and no car lift then pull her out the top. And from the side as it's hard to go from the front with the bumper on, unless your lift has a very long reach.
For what you remove, the LH harness is the biggest PITA to get in and out through the firewall. So if you can take the harness off while the engine is in the car and then lay it over the fender while you pull the engine out that will save time.
-- Wiring harness is attached at the crossmember under the left side header pipes.
-- AC compressor stays in the car so the hoses aren't opened. Unbolt and suspend the compressor by something that will be there after the engine is out.
-- Power steering and alternator can come off so you can disconnect the hoses. Usually easiest to unbolt the alternator and PS console, support everything as you disconnect hoses and wires, then remove the pump and alternator.
Echo the hint to loosen and even remove the crank bolt and the pulleys. Makes a bit more room to play as you swing the engine in and out.
Fan console (S4+) or fan and bracket (pre-S4+), then radiator and the hoses. Put a protective shield on the AC condenser (a couple layers of cardboard taped on) to save it from casual damage as you R&R.
Wiring through the firewall can be a chore. CE panel moves, cables pass through big grommets/gaiters from the inside. Do This Before You Start Lifting The Engine Much. The wires don't stretch.
Offset box wrench for the bellhousing bolts from the top, with air cleaner housing removed.
If everything else is off except the motor mounts and bellhousng bolts it should be fine to move her, right? Final pull will be at a workspace with a lift and hoist (have a hoist at the house by neighbors aren't super fond of driveway engine pulls).
Remove (not just loosen) the two bolts at the transaxle that allow the transaxle to slide to the rear of the car 10-20mm. This will make the bell-housing release from the engine. you just need to push the axle back (easy). It takes 5 mins...and is well worth the effort.
Judging by the factory pics of the whole drivetrain standing free of the body I assume it was originally assembled then the body lowered onto the drivetrain? Is it a complete PITA to reverse the process if you have access to a lift? Seems like that would make some jobs like the shifter cup a lot easier to do it that way. Anyone tried?
Remove the ignition coil, PS fluid reservoir and the whole jump post.
then there's the issue of the third chain. (huh?) The lift points aren't located quite right and the engine will tilt too much without a third support. The official tool for lifting the engine has an arm that attaches to the PS bracket. I run a chain from the load leveler to that so the engine hangs level.
09-28-2017, 11:33 AM
What do you remove when pulling an engine?
And from the side as it's hard to go from the front with the bumper on, unless your lift has a very long reach.
