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'85 32v US automatic high idle

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Old 09-20-2017, 05:52 PM
  #16  
bureau13
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Doesn't that thermoswitch connect to the vapor recovery emissions? I was recently rerouting vacuum lines...my thermoswitch had a broken nipple, so I have a new one. I'm not sure what you mean by "shift valve" though...
Old 09-20-2017, 05:59 PM
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byrdman454
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Found this. It should explain some of the naming in the thread.
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Old 09-20-2017, 06:02 PM
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ihoe
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I follow this thread as I have the same issue. Changed all the same parts and I also have the s300 chip.
Old 09-20-2017, 06:49 PM
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monkez
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Here is the diagram I've been using, which is where I get the terms (#13 & #14).
Again, this is all related to the fact that the idle increases as the engine gets warmer.

If the thermo switch is tight and the lines or components *after* the thermo switch are not, then I can see a vacuum leak getting stronger as the engine warms up, thus increasing the idle speed.
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Old 09-21-2017, 09:59 AM
  #20  
bureau13
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Apparently they named it "shift valve" just to confuse me Yes, that makes sense to me...if that shift valve won't hold vacuum, it seems like that would only show up after the thermoswitch opens. Pretty easy to check by removing the line from the shift valve and plugging it (make sure the line going back to the thermoswitch holds vacuum when cold).
Old 09-21-2017, 01:31 PM
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Andre The Giant
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WOW you learn something new every day !
Old 09-29-2017, 10:53 AM
  #22  
SMTCapeCod
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Bump

Conquered, or no?
Old 10-02-2017, 10:57 AM
  #23  
mj1pate
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Originally Posted by SMTCapeCod
Bump

Conquered, or no?
hmmm, also interested. same symptoms here. Isn’t that control valve a $400 part ?
Old 10-02-2017, 12:06 PM
  #24  
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I am still getting a list together to order.

The control valve is in the $700 range according to Roger. There were some old posts about how the DFW guys found a cheaper replacement, but according to Rog it did not work out.

I am going to replace the shift valve and see what happens. It is around $37 I think. I will update the thread with results. It will be a week or so.
Old 10-04-2017, 03:33 PM
  #25  
mj1pate
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Originally Posted by byrdman454
I am still getting a list together to order.

The control valve is in the $700 range according to Roger. There were some old posts about how the DFW guys found a cheaper replacement, but according to Rog it did not work out.

I am going to replace the shift valve and see what happens. It is around $37 I think. I will update the thread with results. It will be a week or so.
better than the stock market by far. Roger could have gotten me that control valve last year for <$500 as I recall. They’re small enough we could bundle those up with our krugerrands.
Old 10-04-2017, 04:13 PM
  #26  
PorKen
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Originally Posted by byrdman454
...a cheaper replacement


Old 11-12-2017, 10:31 PM
  #27  
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bump
Old 11-14-2017, 09:54 AM
  #28  
Tampa 928s
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I always wondered how would this effect a boosted 86 if bypassed or or no vacuum due to a bad Thermo switch. I know my 84 Euro is vented to air with the 86 USA is there enough pressue with no vacuum would that force open the shift valve under boost?
Old 11-14-2017, 01:56 PM
  #29  
davek9
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My 86.5 twin Screw is bi-passed as PKen shows above, no place to run it once SCed anyway.

I have also blocked it all off and Bi-passed it on a NA '85 as a boatload of little black pellets came out of the "Valve" when I went to test it. I figured they came from the Charcoal canister, its still connected just looped back as Ken shows.

Dave K

Last edited by davek9; 04-27-2018 at 12:34 PM.
Old 11-21-2017, 07:41 AM
  #30  
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Shift valve replaced, no change.
Temp II replaced, no change.
Throttle position switch harness replaced (this one was crumbling), no change.

I honestly don't know what else to check or replace. I guess I am going to do a smoke test and/or pressure test with the engine hot. Maybe there is a vac leak showing up only when hot. I have done these tests before cold and didn't find anything, but I am out of ideas.


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