Battery Conditioner Questions.
12-08-2003, 01:32 AM
#1
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Battery Conditioner Questions.
The PO of my car plugged a battery conditioner into the cigarette lighter and thought it would keep the battery charged. It didn't. I understand that there's a connector sold by the big three that will allow a constant trickle charge into the battery and prevent it from losing its charge.
Can anyone tell me how it's connected, and whether it's safe?
Can anyone tell me how it's connected, and whether it's safe?
12-08-2003, 10:44 AM
#2
Three Wheelin'
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The 928 cig lighter is only active when the ignition is on.......in most cases. So plugging a maintainer in the lighter socket is doing nothing when the car is off. The adapter that Porsche requires for the 928 is a pig-tail with battery clips at one end to either connect to the jump post and body or you could connect it directly to the battery.
You can either pay about $80 bucks for the whole setup new or this is the same setup for much less.....
http://www.batterymart.com/batteryminder.php
Or I use this....a little stronger and even less expensive......
http://store.ineedparts.com/store/vi...dProduct=18944
Got mine at Walmart for $19.99.
You can either pay about $80 bucks for the whole setup new or this is the same setup for much less.....
http://www.batterymart.com/batteryminder.php
Or I use this....a little stronger and even less expensive......
http://store.ineedparts.com/store/vi...dProduct=18944
Got mine at Walmart for $19.99.
12-08-2003, 11:03 AM
#3
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Thanks for posting this thread. My battery was dead this morning. I have something slowing draing my battery. It will die after 2 days of no driving. Now its getting worse and dying anyway. I need to get a battery maintainer and trouble shoot what is wrong.
I have a multimeter and looked up the procedure in the archives. But I think the drain is so small its hard to determine on my multimeter. Are there digital ones that would be more helpful? Any advice?
I have a multimeter and looked up the procedure in the archives. But I think the drain is so small its hard to determine on my multimeter. Are there digital ones that would be more helpful? Any advice?
12-08-2003, 11:04 AM
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That's true, the cig lighter is dead without the key on. The charger I purchased was about $20 and came with connectors that you can permanently attached to the battery, with another connector just under the rug by the tool kit. Just plug it in, as you need it, fully automatic. Make sure that the lid to your battery compartment has a seal that is in good condition to prevent battery vapors from entering the car.
12-08-2003, 11:27 AM
#5
Tom,
Check your door switches and glove box light. The battery load should not be that high.... It sounds like an interior lamp is running.
Ern,
Check www.batterytender.com I use this one.
I connected the pigtails to the battery, fused it next to the battery terminal and leave the wire hidden under the rear mat. I plug it in and close the rear hatch.... Works well and is about $50
Check your door switches and glove box light. The battery load should not be that high.... It sounds like an interior lamp is running.
Ern,
Check www.batterytender.com I use this one.
I connected the pigtails to the battery, fused it next to the battery terminal and leave the wire hidden under the rear mat. I plug it in and close the rear hatch.... Works well and is about $50
12-08-2003, 11:32 AM
#6
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Come to think of it. I just added new speaker wire to replace the old stuff. The orginal wire I just left. I think its possible the two female ends are touching the door and grounding itself out?
I had a battery problem before this but it didn't drain this fast. Now I'm going to get off my butt after work and get busy in this.
I had a battery problem before this but it didn't drain this fast. Now I'm going to get off my butt after work and get busy in this.
12-08-2003, 11:35 AM
#7
Burning Brakes
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Electrical Drain Troubleshooting
Hi Tom,
Harbor Freight had a $4 Cen-Tech 7-function digital multi-testor that goes down to 200mA DC a couple of weeks ago.
How can I make this quick and dirty?
Look into doors for rear red lights always on,… check door on off pins at front for corrosion,… easy to not drop wires in doors,… rear hatch can also be culprit.
Go to Autozone for free quick battery and alternator check,… could just be bad battery.
To locate an electrical "leak", you can fab a quick-and-dirty tester by soldering a pair of wires between an old fuse (blown) and a small 12V light bulb. The smaller the bulb the better I guess, so choose a 211 or something similar.
Plug the fuse into each fuseholder and see which circuit is drawing current. You'll want to take the door switch closed while you test each position with your new "tester". The light illuminates when there's current flowing, plain and simple. Small leaks will not be very bright, larger will go to full bright.
Similarly, you can install the bulb in series with the battery ground strap as you are hunting. Add leads long enough to reach to where you can see the bulb. Pull and replace fuses one by one until the light goes out, plain and simple.
See these links for clarification on above:
http://forums.rennlist.com/forums/ul...;f=14;t=007418
http://forums.rennlist.com/cgi-bin/r...;f=14;t=000650
http://forums.rennlist.com/cgi-bin/r...;f=14;t=002966
Another method: Pull the positive and put a volt meter between the battery pole and the battery cable, then pull a fuse and see if it drops, if yes then there is a draw from that circuit, if no then put the fuse back in, and you can tell how many amps are being drawn, when you pull a fuse and notice a huge difference, then you can find out what electrical system is causing the draw.
Let us know wazsup!
Harbor Freight had a $4 Cen-Tech 7-function digital multi-testor that goes down to 200mA DC a couple of weeks ago.
How can I make this quick and dirty?
Look into doors for rear red lights always on,… check door on off pins at front for corrosion,… easy to not drop wires in doors,… rear hatch can also be culprit.
Go to Autozone for free quick battery and alternator check,… could just be bad battery.
To locate an electrical "leak", you can fab a quick-and-dirty tester by soldering a pair of wires between an old fuse (blown) and a small 12V light bulb. The smaller the bulb the better I guess, so choose a 211 or something similar.
Plug the fuse into each fuseholder and see which circuit is drawing current. You'll want to take the door switch closed while you test each position with your new "tester". The light illuminates when there's current flowing, plain and simple. Small leaks will not be very bright, larger will go to full bright.
Similarly, you can install the bulb in series with the battery ground strap as you are hunting. Add leads long enough to reach to where you can see the bulb. Pull and replace fuses one by one until the light goes out, plain and simple.
See these links for clarification on above:
http://forums.rennlist.com/forums/ul...;f=14;t=007418
http://forums.rennlist.com/cgi-bin/r...;f=14;t=000650
http://forums.rennlist.com/cgi-bin/r...;f=14;t=002966
Another method: Pull the positive and put a volt meter between the battery pole and the battery cable, then pull a fuse and see if it drops, if yes then there is a draw from that circuit, if no then put the fuse back in, and you can tell how many amps are being drawn, when you pull a fuse and notice a huge difference, then you can find out what electrical system is causing the draw.
Let us know wazsup!
