monkez

Thanks Dave.

I probably won't be able to look at it until Friday or Sat. I typically don't get home from work until 8-9pm; by then, fat-boy is too tired to go the garage and tinker.

thanks,

adam

BIMMERMIKE

319 Additional engine cooling for hot climate countries

What is this option?

Otto Mechanic

Adam you better be rolling or you can't lay claim to "fat boy"!

monkez

at 6'2 & 350, I qualify...

monkez

as for the 319 code, it came up when I had the VIN searched on stuttcars. IIRC, Tom from 928 Int'l said that it may mean there is a higher ratio for the fan to spin. Don't really know. Although, being in SoCal and driving to AZ often, I like the idea that there is additional cooling somehow.

Frankly, I don't see any difference when you look at the parts.

monkez

Actually, did a quick search and found this on the 319 option.

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ry-option.html

928NOOBIE

This sounds like a symptom of the idle adjustment screw being too far open.

I have this car and this is a very sensitive adjustment. I adjust it in 8ths of a turn most of the time.

If I have opened the screw too far, acceleration becomes sluggish...sounds like its way way too far open, so much so that the ISV can't compensate.

monkez

thanks for all the comments. I will keep ya posted when I attack the issue this week-end.

davek9

Correct the "Idle Mixture" brass hex screw, not the throttle plate, that should not /never need adjustment.

This is why I asked OP where it's at, could be too far out,

Dave

monkez

So I dragged my butt out to the garage tonite and took a look at that hex screw. It took exactly 2 1/2 full turns to tighten the hex screw all the way down.

Additionally, i tried checking if the vent hole would hold vacuum when screwed all the way down and it didn't.

I maybe over thinking this, but should this hold vacuum? If not, then the system would never be completely vacuum tight because of this vent hole.

As always, any thoughts are welcome and much appreciated.

Thanks for all the insight and suggestions thus far!

-adam

Otto Mechanic

Adam -

Yes, it should hold vacuum and with a few hours I can tell you what the leak down numbers should be.

Have you built that tool yet? I wasn't completely clear on your earlier answer? I can send plans and pictures if you don't have them, but the basic answer is YES, it should hold vacuum.

Best Regards,

SMTCapeCod

i may have missed.this part of the discussion, but we're the o rings at each end of the rod for the throttle plates already replaced?
and, instead of pulling vacuum on it, how about putting a little pressure to and using the soap and water solution?

monkez

So a few things:

1. First off, all of the responses have been great and insightful

2. Yes, I've also used the rubber plumbing connections (modeled after the Dwayne's tester) to pressurize the intake system. It would go up to 3 psi and go right back down.

3. Built a smoker, but the smoke just seemed to "materialize" and it was difficult to identify where the smoke was coming from. Frustrated, I decided to pull everything out and that is how I've come to this point.

Things that I know:

1. Every vacuum line that leads to the throttle body holds vacuum (ie, everything connected to the 7 way splitter, the thermo vacuum switch, charcoal cannister, control valve & the diverter valve).

2. I discovered that the o-ring that goes on the MAF and leads to the TB was missing. My guess is that's where the smoke materialized as that spot is hard to see with all the vacuum tubes attached. I've noticed that the MAF (which has been rebuilt by injection labs) would start pop out once pressure got past 3 psi.

3. After pulling out the maf, TB and throttle control valve; I kept them connected and sealed everything up with plumbing fittings and rubber stoppers as needed. I did the soapy water test while pressurizing and saw bubbles come out of two places: the electrical connector on the throttle control valve (which is new) and the electrical connector on the throttle position sensor (also new). To be honest, I don't think I sprayed the hex nut on the vacuum vent for idle on the TB.

However, SMTCapeCod just mentioned o-rings for the throttle plate. That sure would explain the bubbles coming out of the TPS. I also noticed an o-ring on the hex nut, so I was going to replace that one as well.

Anything special to worry about on the o-rings for the throttle plate?

Again, this is all great stuff! thanks for the feedback and ideas! I will post pics once I get home.


-adam

SMTCapeCod

There is an old thread on here somewhere about someone going through similar battle...grey car in avatar IIRC,Edit: Mike Frye? Anyway, based on that thread, I ordered the O-rings from Roger, and again IIRC I think he said same part # as for S4 flappy valve.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-there-is.html
and
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...l#post12359750

There have been a few S3s now found to have intakes that were no longer true to the heads, required minor planning to lay flat. Worst case get ready to get out some plastiguage. There was some chatter about whether that seemed more common on cars with powder coated intakes (no, I do not mean coating on machined surface...) but I don't think we ever honed in on that.

monkez

AFter reading the comments on the o-rings, I did a quick search on and found the Mike Frye thread. I feel like a doofus because someone had forwarded me Mike Frye's write-up and I completely missed the part about the o-rings.

Also, I really wish I had thought of 3" plumbing

As for the second thread, I'm with you: what the *&$#! was that last picture depami was using on his?!?

I'm excited to tackle this on the week-end. I have left over o-rings from the cam covers.

thanks all!