What do you do when...
#1
Drifting
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you drop the double hex tool as you're undoing the cam shaft "clamps" and it dissappears down the oilway as quick as a rat down a drainpipe?
I pressume it's in the sump now, it went down the oilway at the front left of the engine. I know I'm a plonker for letting it happen but before you tell me so check pics 39 to 41 so you can see the conditions I'm working in (and that isn't where I live either - I live ten minutes walk away).
http://www.928.org.uk/ukkid35/project/index
So my question is, how do I get it out? This is an engine in operation, I don't have the option to take it out.
It's my intention to remove the plenum (mostly there now as the fuel rails have been removed), and remove the heads. Assuming the block isn't obviously damaged and the pistons appear to be OK I'll put another set of heads on and try to put it all back together.
One last question, how do you get the triangular plate that bolts to the sprocket off of the camshaft (which is now out of the car)?
Thanks in advance!
I pressume it's in the sump now, it went down the oilway at the front left of the engine. I know I'm a plonker for letting it happen but before you tell me so check pics 39 to 41 so you can see the conditions I'm working in (and that isn't where I live either - I live ten minutes walk away).
http://www.928.org.uk/ukkid35/project/index
So my question is, how do I get it out? This is an engine in operation, I don't have the option to take it out.
It's my intention to remove the plenum (mostly there now as the fuel rails have been removed), and remove the heads. Assuming the block isn't obviously damaged and the pistons appear to be OK I'll put another set of heads on and try to put it all back together.
One last question, how do you get the triangular plate that bolts to the sprocket off of the camshaft (which is now out of the car)?
Thanks in advance!
Last edited by UKKid35; 12-09-2008 at 07:02 PM.
#2
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Kid: Sorry about that tool, it happens. I can't visualize the hole, but one of the first tools I bought was a magnet on a stick. I assume the item you dropped was not aluminum. There are telescoping ones, there are dental mirrors and tiny mag lights to peer into such rabbit holes. Harbor Freight and/or Micro Mark have long hemostats for working in tight spaces. HTH.
#3
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That really su*ks...BTDT.
The magnets on the telescoping rod work very well and are a must for your tool box.
However, if the hole has twists or bends to it, I have used a small magnet tied (very securely!) to a piece of string which allows it to bend and twist down the hole.
GOOD LUCK!
The magnets on the telescoping rod work very well and are a must for your tool box.
However, if the hole has twists or bends to it, I have used a small magnet tied (very securely!) to a piece of string which allows it to bend and twist down the hole.
GOOD LUCK!
#4
Drifting
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Thanks Guys, looks like I'm going fishing!
Just bought a few little magnets, about the size of throat lozenges, however I'm not sure how I'm going to tie some cord or string to them. I can't imagine they're too easy to drill holes through either.
They're also somewhat larger in diameter than the tool I droped so may not follow it's path, got to be worth trying though.
Now I'm really glad the engine is aluminium, it is all aluminium isn't it?!?
Just bought a few little magnets, about the size of throat lozenges, however I'm not sure how I'm going to tie some cord or string to them. I can't imagine they're too easy to drill holes through either.
They're also somewhat larger in diameter than the tool I droped so may not follow it's path, got to be worth trying though.
Now I'm really glad the engine is aluminium, it is all aluminium isn't it?!?
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On the subject of fishing ...........
Paul, If your magnets are of the 'rare earth' type, they'll be sufficiently strong.
Rather than use string/cord, I'd be tempted to attach a length of solid core, ductile copper wire. Std. house wire here is 14 g.(120v). @220v there, likely 18 g. - even better (stainless works too)
As you'll be fishing in the oil galleries, I'd prefer a connection that allowed leverage on both sides of the 'push/pull' equation.
Now, as to drilling that hole....
Paul, If your magnets are of the 'rare earth' type, they'll be sufficiently strong.
Rather than use string/cord, I'd be tempted to attach a length of solid core, ductile copper wire. Std. house wire here is 14 g.(120v). @220v there, likely 18 g. - even better (stainless works too)
As you'll be fishing in the oil galleries, I'd prefer a connection that allowed leverage on both sides of the 'push/pull' equation.
Now, as to drilling that hole....
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You will not run into anything that isn't aluminum other than the bit you dropped as you snake your way down the oil gally. A couple of those take a left-right turn on the way down - so your tool may have lodged in the turn.
You should also be able to buy a "springy" retrieval tool on the end of which you can mount a magnet.
You should also be able to buy a "springy" retrieval tool on the end of which you can mount a magnet.
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Kid,
Once you remove the plenum (entire intake right?) you will be able to remove the oil filler neck. Under this there is a big opening down into the sump. You should have acces to the front half of the sump from there with a telescoping magnet. FWIW a telescoping magnet is about $4 USD.
Before removing the intake be sure to clean around it as best as possible. Two of your cylinders will have open intake valves. If anything makes it past those valves into the cylinders it's not coming out.
HTH,
Andy K
Once you remove the plenum (entire intake right?) you will be able to remove the oil filler neck. Under this there is a big opening down into the sump. You should have acces to the front half of the sump from there with a telescoping magnet. FWIW a telescoping magnet is about $4 USD.
Before removing the intake be sure to clean around it as best as possible. Two of your cylinders will have open intake valves. If anything makes it past those valves into the cylinders it's not coming out.
HTH,
Andy K
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Hi Paul,
The telescoping magnets are available at most parts stores, Sears, etc. They can bend a little. I have a very light duty, and very heavy duty version. Hardly ever get use from the light version.
When working over a hole such as in the head, always stuff a paper towel or rag down there first. You can put the magnet at the end of your wrench to catch things before they fall as they are removed.
Good Luck!
The telescoping magnets are available at most parts stores, Sears, etc. They can bend a little. I have a very light duty, and very heavy duty version. Hardly ever get use from the light version.
When working over a hole such as in the head, always stuff a paper towel or rag down there first. You can put the magnet at the end of your wrench to catch things before they fall as they are removed.
Good Luck!
#10
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Paul
I may be free the sunday 14 dec if you need me to bring my Engine hoist over !
I did lend you both the 12point bits I think so you can finish the job and get the heads off !
Oh and if you go fishing with a magnet down that hole you may find that you can't get the crank back out of that small hole. LOL
Cheers
Jon
I may be free the sunday 14 dec if you need me to bring my Engine hoist over !
I did lend you both the 12point bits I think so you can finish the job and get the heads off !
Oh and if you go fishing with a magnet down that hole you may find that you can't get the crank back out of that small hole. LOL
Cheers
Jon
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Well there is always the "pull the oil pan". Probably could use a new gasket anyway.
I have a washer in the sump of my 914. It went in through the push rod tube and into the sump.. I have to pull the case halves apart!!!!!
I have a washer in the sump of my 914. It went in through the push rod tube and into the sump.. I have to pull the case halves apart!!!!!
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UKKid / Paul,
Your post made my heart sink for a bit. Good luck with your fishing expedition. I recently invested a total of $2.00 in two of the best tools I've ever owned: 1) a 24" long contraption that is made of wrapped wire (hence flexible) that has a push-button on one end that opens a set of 3-pronged "jaws" at the other end (I suppose you could put one of cough drop sized magnets from Radio Shack in there in your case); and 2) a dental mirror on a telescoping shaft (think portable radio antenna). I've already rescued several bits of hardware from deep inside the bowels of the engine bay of my old BMWs. Have not used it on the Shark yet...but someday, I'm sure they'll come in handy. Please let us know how you make out.
Best,
TUK
Your post made my heart sink for a bit. Good luck with your fishing expedition. I recently invested a total of $2.00 in two of the best tools I've ever owned: 1) a 24" long contraption that is made of wrapped wire (hence flexible) that has a push-button on one end that opens a set of 3-pronged "jaws" at the other end (I suppose you could put one of cough drop sized magnets from Radio Shack in there in your case); and 2) a dental mirror on a telescoping shaft (think portable radio antenna). I've already rescued several bits of hardware from deep inside the bowels of the engine bay of my old BMWs. Have not used it on the Shark yet...but someday, I'm sure they'll come in handy. Please let us know how you make out.
Best,
TUK
#13
Drifting
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I hadn't been overly cautious about dropping stuff as I have to take the heads off anyway, I simply forgot that I needed to be extra careful about the oilways. Anyway my magnet was too large to follow the tool's path, so I'm going to have to wait until I finally get the plenum off to try Andy's suggestion.
My "magnet on a string" did manage to recover my 10mm socket from the V which I must have dropped a little while ago, so that was handy anyway.
Jon, thanks again for the offer but what do we do with the engine once it's out? I've even started dreaming about owning a heated garage like yours! And yes the second longer 12 point bit enabled me to get at all but one of the remaining bolts - so I really need to fish it out!
Thanks everyone
My "magnet on a string" did manage to recover my 10mm socket from the V which I must have dropped a little while ago, so that was handy anyway.
Jon, thanks again for the offer but what do we do with the engine once it's out? I've even started dreaming about owning a heated garage like yours! And yes the second longer 12 point bit enabled me to get at all but one of the remaining bolts - so I really need to fish it out!
Thanks everyone
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Another subject: from the looks of your pictures you need new cam and oil pump sprockets. If you can see the shiny material on the ribs, you need new sprockets. Also, check the cranckshaft sprocket too. If you don't replace them, the life of your cam belt is reduced and you have the possiblity of slipping a few teeth.
Good luck! Those frosty pictures look cold.
Good luck! Those frosty pictures look cold.
#15
Drifting
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Thanks Rich, I was evenutally going to write some sort of warning to other high mileage car owners, as the condition of the sprockets isn't obvious unless you strip off a fair amount of stuff from the front of the engine, and you're probably only going to do that when changing the belt anyway. The sprocket wear was almost certainly the cause of my belt failure and my belt only had 43,000 on it. So the 40-45k belt change interval you typically read about isn't safe for high mileage cars where the sprocket condition is unknown.
There's nothing quite like finding out the hard way.
There's nothing quite like finding out the hard way.