PO electrical mods.
#16
Electron Wrangler
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
#17
Electron Wrangler
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
I believe the the plug you are referring to in both cases is the green plug "O". It is best known as Plug O since there are multiple green plugs. It has 2 halves left & right. The terminals on the left side are O11 (bottom) -> O15 (top). The terminals on the rights side are O21 (bottom) to-> O25 (top). So your connections of interest are O15 & O21.
These are the outputs of the fuses for the marker lights (#40) left & (#41) right. I don't know why they connected them together there is no good reason - so evidently they didn't know what they were doing - just take these apart and leave them apart.
You need to reconnect the wires that were there before - same colors.
Alan
These are the outputs of the fuses for the marker lights (#40) left & (#41) right. I don't know why they connected them together there is no good reason - so evidently they didn't know what they were doing - just take these apart and leave them apart.
You need to reconnect the wires that were there before - same colors.
Alan
#18
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Edmonton, Ab
Posts: 2,286
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I believe the the plug you are referring to in both cases is the green plug "O". It is best known as Plug O since there are multiple green plugs. It has 2 halves left & right. The terminals on the left side are O11 (bottom) -> O15 (top). The terminals on the rights side are O21 (bottom) to-> O25 (top). So your connections of interest are O15 & O21.
These are the outputs of the fuses for the marker lights (#40) left & (#41) right. I don't know why they connected them together there is no good reason - so evidently they didn't know what they were doing - just take these apart and leave them apart.
You need to reconnect the wires that were there before - same colors.
Alan
These are the outputs of the fuses for the marker lights (#40) left & (#41) right. I don't know why they connected them together there is no good reason - so evidently they didn't know what they were doing - just take these apart and leave them apart.
You need to reconnect the wires that were there before - same colors.
Alan
Now no running lights or brake lights. They were functional before I removed the splicer.
I'll check those fuses.
#19
Electron Wrangler
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
This had nothing to do with your brake lights.
Marker lights may be different - check the fuses #40 & #41 - it still doesn't any make sense but start there.
Alan
Marker lights may be different - check the fuses #40 & #41 - it still doesn't any make sense but start there.
Alan
#20
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Edmonton, Ab
Posts: 2,286
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Lights
Well, I'm a donut! The pax-side map tray is still removed and the 14 pin connection to the light controller black box is unplugged.
Reconnected the black box and it's all good.
Thanks!
Reconnected the black box and it's all good.
Thanks!
Last edited by BrianG; 08-14-2017 at 10:58 PM.
#21
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Edmonton, Ab
Posts: 2,286
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Another thing......
Found this on the drivers side of the TT tunnel.
The connector looks to be oem. The trace on one of the spliced wires is black. The other two have no trace.
What's going on here?
What of the cut wire?
The connector looks to be oem. The trace on one of the spliced wires is black. The other two have no trace.
What's going on here?
What of the cut wire?
#22
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Edmonton, Ab
Posts: 2,286
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
One more identification if you would. I am sure hoping it's the last!
They took the splice to a nearby grounding point. I wonder where it was going to? There is no continuity to ground on the cut wire.
They took the splice to a nearby grounding point. I wonder where it was going to? There is no continuity to ground on the cut wire.
#24
Electron Wrangler
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
You really do need to get the wiring diagrams and learn how to read them. Without them you cannot realistically maintain the car.
Get the diagrams:- best to get the Jim Moorehouse set from Roger @ 928srus
Then See: http://928-electrics.com/wiring%20diagram%20primers.htm
Alan
#25
Electron Wrangler
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
I don't know for sure what the red black wire (etc) is, my best guess is that is is for the suppressor (inductor) for the Audio head unit. It has therefore been bypassed (maybe removed). This was a bad idea - it is actually an excellent high value inductor - it looks like a small transformer - but with only 3 connections. Should be on drivers side in the console near the ashtray area - look. There may be a ground (brown) wire attached to it or floating about there - that is the 3rd connection.
Seems you had a PO with some rather poor ideas (or no idea at all) - a cause for some general concern I think.
Alan
#26
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Edmonton, Ab
Posts: 2,286
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for all the wiring assistance. With your help I think that all of the current electron issues have been resolved.
The HVAC jumper is removed. The new fans run on a separate new circuit, complete with a separate a/c trigger.
The running light jumper is removed and the lights work properly.
The lighter circuit's Black/Blue non-variable illumination lead now triggers the auto-dim feature in the new radio head unit.
The dimmed clock backlight circuit now also provides dimming backlight to the boost gauge.
The persistent "Belt Tension" warning light is extinguished as desired with the PorKen tensioner.
I have a full set of 928 manuals but find circuit reading a challenge to match with chassis harness location. I have contacted Allen, with much hope, about his "928 electrics" project.
Thanks again for the help.
The HVAC jumper is removed. The new fans run on a separate new circuit, complete with a separate a/c trigger.
The running light jumper is removed and the lights work properly.
The lighter circuit's Black/Blue non-variable illumination lead now triggers the auto-dim feature in the new radio head unit.
The dimmed clock backlight circuit now also provides dimming backlight to the boost gauge.
The persistent "Belt Tension" warning light is extinguished as desired with the PorKen tensioner.
I have a full set of 928 manuals but find circuit reading a challenge to match with chassis harness location. I have contacted Allen, with much hope, about his "928 electrics" project.
Thanks again for the help.