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Erik,
Bring the shark back to Texas for gawd's sake. We can bait all the rats you want here.
Go ahead and admit it... Y'all are just gonna miss the old-school beast LSD tail-happy tire-shredding antics this November!
All the Idahoans I met, said to invite more Texans (cuz they run off the Californians...)
Originally Posted by Red Flash
Erik, are you crazy?
You have a nice looking 928 with a EURO S motor in it and you are leaving it covered over the dirt/soil
Get that car off the dirt/soil!!! The humidity will corrode everything... Ask me how I know about these things...
I have overwintered her outside before, in a wet climate. I think she will be OK. But in looking at that pic of mine, I may add a 3rd layer to her to really button her up. Another tarp that seals tight down to the ground mostly. But in my experience, you do want some airflow under the chassis though.
I have overwintered her outside before, in a wet climate. I think she will be OK. But in looking at that pic of mine, I may add a 3rd layer to her to really button her up. Another tarp that seals tight down to the ground mostly. But in my experience, you do want some airflow under the chassis though.
You miss the point completely - it is the moisture that comes up from the ground that causes the corrosion. The bottom of this car will be terrible if you continue to do store it like this. See my earlier post above.
You miss the point completely - it is the moisture that comes up from the ground that causes the corrosion. The bottom of this car will be terrible if you continue to do store it like this. See my earlier post above.
Agreed, it's the condensation from the ground that's the problem. Maybe some areas have it less worse than others, but I'd never want to store anything over grass or dirt for any length of time. Especially not if it was covered, further trapping more moisture.
That and be sure to add fuel stabilizer, and run it for a bit to make sure it gets into the fuel lines.
Living in a seriously cold place, combined with way too many vehicles and not always keeping track of what is what, one thing I have learned is that there is a real difference between a freeze up with water, and a freeze up with too little antifreeze. Water freeze ups are almost always expensive, too little antifreeze can be inconvenient but is generally not expensive. When the weak coolant freezes you end up with slurpie, this allows the pressure to be distributed evenly. If the pressure gets too high the hoses usually take the hit if the pressure relief in the fill cap doesn't work. Port in the cap doesn't flow slurpie well.
I can't say at what point it changes from low refrigerant to water, but we would leave farm equipment that wasn't used in the winter with 30% and at that level we didn't have an issue.
We do on occasion get to a real before wind chill -40 so that is as much as a test as you're likely to see.
I've taken to putting a tarp under my cars when I park them for storage, even in my winter storage tent.
Living in a seriously cold place, combined with way too many vehicles and not always keeping track of what is what, one thing I have learned is that there is a real difference between a freeze up with water, and a freeze up with too little antifreeze. Water freeze ups are almost always expensive, too little antifreeze can be inconvenient but is generally not expensive. When the weak coolant freezes you end up with slurpie, this allows the pressure to be distributed evenly. If the pressure gets too high the hoses usually take the hit if the pressure relief in the fill cap doesn't work. Port in the cap doesn't flow slurpie well.
I can't say at what point it changes from low refrigerant to water, but we would leave farm equipment that wasn't used in the winter with 30% and at that level we didn't have an issue.
We do on occasion get to a real before wind chill -40 so that is as much as a test as you're likely to see.
I've taken to putting a tarp under my cars when I park them for storage, even in my winter storage tent.
OK this is some valuable input. I had thought about putting a tarp underneath.. could be easily done. I am guessing that the chassis corrosion is a result of a damp ground, then having the whole vehicle sealed in with deep snowfall?
I think that my location won't see that. They get only about 3-4' of snow there, and is a relatively arid place otherwise. Maybe the melting snow could be an issue? My Suburban still looks fine underneath after 10 years, but it is taller and has better ventilation.
Pat: re the mouse bait as an attractant... it makes sense. That it lures them in to breed and make pups before they die. With the Suburban, it was a stinking dead rat mess every year before I incorporated coolant traps into the rodent defenses.
Re: the 30% slurpie, I have heard that elsewhere, but kind of thought it was made up... I figured the coolant was either frozen, or not. You have actually seen a partially frozen slurpie coolant mix? Maybe I should have left the radiator cap off?
The slurpee business is real. A pure substance freezes at a single temperature. Adding something to it (the "solute") changes this melting/solidification point to a solidification range. Metallurgists can take a phase diagram and explain that the first stuff to freeze has a low solute content, and the last to freeze has a high solute content. Depending on the two substances, the last stuff may be a "eutectic", which then freezes out at the same temperature. Otherwise, solidification will be continuous, with liquid present until the last bit freezes. This liquid can ooze out, in principle, and relieve the pressure. In a radiator, it can ooze into the hoses - but maybe not if the hoses freeze solid first. We're talking about very high pressure here, and for ice an elevated temperature where it can undergo "creep" deformation, glacier-like, as long as it has some place to go and can take its time.
Everything freezing at once is the worst case for handling the increase in volume of ice upon solidification (a weird property of water). There is little opportunity for liquid to ooze out somewhere to relieve the pressure. Pure water bad; a mixture that goes to the eutectic less bad; a mixture without the eutectic good. There is a eutectic in the water-glycol system - car people know it well as the mix with the lowest freezing point, but since it all freezes at a single point, it might be risky in Antarctica.
Water corresponds to the left edge of this diagram - the freezing point is clear at 0°C. Going to the right means added antifreeze. The solidification start temperature drops, and the region below that is where you get the slurpee. The eutectic is at about 65% glycol. Metallurgists live and die according to phase diagrams like this. Geologists, too. (Edit: this phase diagram is simplified, not showing detail for the two pure materials that makes it clear they freeze without any slurpee stuff.)
Hi guys. Before you jump to conclusions, I am not a complete idiot, yet...
50 miles down a dirt road up by Canada in the Idaho panhandle.
Having grown up in Montana and spent more than my share of time in the woods... I never did see a Porsche used to access those beautiful and wild places.... would have been something to see.
Since you have to go and add more antifreeze, I would park the car on a tarp to seal it from ground moisture. Next to grass, dirt is the worst place to park over when storing a car.
Since you have to go and add more antifreeze, I would park the car on a tarp to seal it from ground moisture. Next to grass, dirt is the worst place to park over when storing a car.
Unless you bag it and use dessicants there's not really a way to 'seal it from ground moisture'. A tarp under it helps avoid some of the effects of condensation between the vehicle and the ground. But it's still not ideal.
Have to ask, why bother keeping a nice vehicle if not going to store it with a better eye toward it's condition? I get why a truck used out in backwoods might not get a 'while glove' treatment, but the 928?
07-26-2017, 10:49 PM
