Suspension replace
#1
Suspension replace
I've realized lately that my shocks (front and rear) are very worn out. I'm hoping to get the car back to stock performance or better. I've been looking on pelican for OEM replacement shocks all around and am leaning towards the Sachs shocks. Is this the best choice, or are there better options? Is there anything else I will need to buy to install them? Or can I just get the pieces off the old set? (Nothing is broken) also, is there anything else I should replace/upgrade at the same time?
#2
#3
Former Vendor
Sachs and Bilstein are both fine, although we do tend to favor bilstein. You might also consider replacing all rubber suspension bushings if they're still original. Worn out suspension bushings will cause your camber/caster/toe alignment to wonder making steering unpredictable.
#5
And speaking of unpredictable steering, I think my U joint is a little loose. My steering wheel jiggles a lot when I hit a bump in the road. What would I do to fix that? They don't have that part on pelican and I read somewhere a while ago that you have to get it rebuilt/refurbished. But how/where?
#6
Steering shaft rebuild service:
http://www.emotorsports.org/prod02.htm
Bilstein is a better performance option over Sachs. Sachs is closer to OEM standard.
http://www.emotorsports.org/prod02.htm
Bilstein is a better performance option over Sachs. Sachs is closer to OEM standard.
#7
Former Vendor
Bilsteins are a great choice for a modest performance increase over stock. You will also want to address the other wear items on the suspension, most notably the rubber bushings as mentioned above, but also ball joints and tie rods.
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#8
Thanks for the advice. And one last question. What is a good place to order the parts? I've used pelican in the past as it is far cheaper than going through the dealership but is there something better yet? Has anyone here used rock auto? I'm from Canada if it makes a difference.
#9
I've used RockAuto without issue for general items. For items like the Bilsteins or factory original parts, I'd use either your local Porsche dealer (if you have the Porsche part number) or Pelican.
#10
I just checked the difference ($) between the Sachs and blistein shocks. In the rear they are almost the same, but in the front they are double the price. Do they really make that much of a difference in terms of road driving? I'd rather have the blisteins but with such a large price difference I'm not sure it's worth it.
And with the tie rods. Would I only need to replace the ends? Or the whole thing? Or will I have to look at it? If so, what am I looking for?
And with the tie rods. Would I only need to replace the ends? Or the whole thing? Or will I have to look at it? If so, what am I looking for?
#11
My parts are on the way now. I went with the Sachs, and got tie rod ends and a few bushings. As far as the front goes I think it should be straight forward, as for the back however, is there a trick to doing it, or is it just as simple as a traditional rear suspension?
#12
Rear shocks are straight forward and fairly easy to replace. Just two bolts on each one.
Refer to your service manual (Haynes or Factory) and you shouldn't have any problems.
Refer to your service manual (Haynes or Factory) and you shouldn't have any problems.
#13
Problem is I don't have the original manual, or any manual for that matter. I can't find the Haynes manual anywhere. I've checked every Canadian tire in the city. Also, to replace my tie rod ends, I have to replace my steering fluid. I forget what I used last time to top it up, but I read somewhere that I'm supposed to use auto transmission fluid? Is that correct? And if I don't have gear pullers to remove the tie rod ends, is there a different way to do it?
#14
WHAT? STOP. Go order at least a Hayne's manual online from Amazon.ca or you know, ask the nose pickers behind the counter at CT to order it for you.
If you search around you could even find the OEM Factory manual available online (though it isn't legal and you should buy the hardcopy)
You only need to drain the steering system if you replace the inner tie-rods. The outers just screw on the ends. You'll want to have the alignment checked afterward. The power steering system does indeed use ATF, using Power steering fluid will break it.
Many parts stores will loan tools if you don't have them or don't/can't buy them. A simple pickle fork is sufficient if you don't have a puller available.
This should help with the rear shocks:
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/susp-03.htm
and buried in here is how you can change the outer tie-rod ends:
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/steer-01.htm
and here's how to do the front struts:
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/susp-02.htm
If you search around you could even find the OEM Factory manual available online (though it isn't legal and you should buy the hardcopy)
You only need to drain the steering system if you replace the inner tie-rods. The outers just screw on the ends. You'll want to have the alignment checked afterward. The power steering system does indeed use ATF, using Power steering fluid will break it.
Many parts stores will loan tools if you don't have them or don't/can't buy them. A simple pickle fork is sufficient if you don't have a puller available.
This should help with the rear shocks:
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/susp-03.htm
and buried in here is how you can change the outer tie-rod ends:
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/steer-01.htm
and here's how to do the front struts:
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/susp-02.htm
#15
Thanks. I appreciate the advise and references.
And for the record, I did ask them to order it, they said it would be there in a week. I checked back with them and it never came. Then they claimed they can't find one. So I replaced my clutch, pulled my engine and replaced the rod bearings and various seals without it, referencing only Clark's, Rennlist and YouTube.
And for the record, I did ask them to order it, they said it would be there in a week. I checked back with them and it never came. Then they claimed they can't find one. So I replaced my clutch, pulled my engine and replaced the rod bearings and various seals without it, referencing only Clark's, Rennlist and YouTube.