What to lookout for when looking at a 924 Turbo?
#1
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Hi everyone. I am a serious noob when it comes to Porsches and I am looking at a 1981 924 Turbo. I guess it is called a 931, correct? I stumbled across this car locally for sale by a guy I know vaguely. It is a decent price and the car seems to look solid but I need to go drive it still. Is there anything major I should keep a lookout for? I know timing belts are an issue with them because they are interference and I am pretty sure this car had a timing belt done fairly recently. Thanks in advance. I am sure to learn a ton of new things. I have always had a passion for the 924/944 cars and have enjoyed driving the couple 944s that I have driven.
Keith
Keith
#2
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Correct, the timing belt. Look also for water leaks or signs of, like damp/mouldy carpets. '81-82's are more desireable, due to the suspension (brake - same as early 944) and engine upgrades (turbo and engine management).
Look for a car that's been driven a fair bit; they don't like to sit, rust or varnish or dirt are not friendly to the fuel system. If it's not running, it should be cheap; to replace all possible parts in the fuel injection to get them running can and will cost between $1-1.5k (fuel pumps, fuel distributor, warm-up regulator, etc).
Don't expect to find a cosmetically good one; they all tend to suffer from cheap, poor-quality resprays, cracked dashes, faded carpet, etc. Expect to pay a premium for one that is cosmetically nice, even if not running.
Don't worry too much about sloppy shifters or suspension; it's all shared with the 944 and easy to repair/restore. If you plan on new shocks/struts, tires perhaps, and new front suspension bushings (a-arms and strut mounts), the cars can really drive beautifully again, and parts aren't too expensive.
Steering will be manual, so don't be surprised by a stiff steering wheel.
Be sure to get it up over 50mph - that's when they really wake up and feel good. They're not really all that much fun to drive around town.
Be sure to give the turbo time to warm up before you work it hard (at least 5 min of driving, preferably 10-15) and also give it time to cool off after before shutdown - at least 30sec. When you do drive, look for signs of hesitation off-boost - caused by vacuum leaks mainly, not too bad to fix, just hoses mainly. Make sure to do some full-throttle runs as well, and make sure it doesn't fall off or stumble at higher revs (3000-4000+) - might indicate fuel delivery problems, often the in-tank pump.
Check clutch hydraulics - look for leaks on the boot at the clutch pedal. If its damp, you'll want to replace it, and the slave cylinder as well, they both tend to go at the same time, and can be a little bit of a PITA to replace. Price isn't too bad, though, maybe $100-120 for the pair?
Also look for the car to be run with synthetic oil - the turbo is only cooled by the oil, no water cooling, so that's KEY to turbo longevity. Otherwise they can coke up and stick, and it's rather a major PITA to R+R the turbo for a rebuild. Rebuilds aren't too bad, though - there's a well-regarded company in-state, Michigan Turbo, I've heard they'll rebuild for around $300, depending on possible broken parts, and thats less than half the price for a rebuilt or new one off-the-shelf!
That should give you plenty to go on for now - good luck, and I hope you find a good deal!
(PS - and if you don't like that one, but are nearby - I do also have one for sale!
)
Look for a car that's been driven a fair bit; they don't like to sit, rust or varnish or dirt are not friendly to the fuel system. If it's not running, it should be cheap; to replace all possible parts in the fuel injection to get them running can and will cost between $1-1.5k (fuel pumps, fuel distributor, warm-up regulator, etc).
Don't expect to find a cosmetically good one; they all tend to suffer from cheap, poor-quality resprays, cracked dashes, faded carpet, etc. Expect to pay a premium for one that is cosmetically nice, even if not running.
Don't worry too much about sloppy shifters or suspension; it's all shared with the 944 and easy to repair/restore. If you plan on new shocks/struts, tires perhaps, and new front suspension bushings (a-arms and strut mounts), the cars can really drive beautifully again, and parts aren't too expensive.
Steering will be manual, so don't be surprised by a stiff steering wheel.
Be sure to get it up over 50mph - that's when they really wake up and feel good. They're not really all that much fun to drive around town.
Be sure to give the turbo time to warm up before you work it hard (at least 5 min of driving, preferably 10-15) and also give it time to cool off after before shutdown - at least 30sec. When you do drive, look for signs of hesitation off-boost - caused by vacuum leaks mainly, not too bad to fix, just hoses mainly. Make sure to do some full-throttle runs as well, and make sure it doesn't fall off or stumble at higher revs (3000-4000+) - might indicate fuel delivery problems, often the in-tank pump.
Check clutch hydraulics - look for leaks on the boot at the clutch pedal. If its damp, you'll want to replace it, and the slave cylinder as well, they both tend to go at the same time, and can be a little bit of a PITA to replace. Price isn't too bad, though, maybe $100-120 for the pair?
Also look for the car to be run with synthetic oil - the turbo is only cooled by the oil, no water cooling, so that's KEY to turbo longevity. Otherwise they can coke up and stick, and it's rather a major PITA to R+R the turbo for a rebuild. Rebuilds aren't too bad, though - there's a well-regarded company in-state, Michigan Turbo, I've heard they'll rebuild for around $300, depending on possible broken parts, and thats less than half the price for a rebuilt or new one off-the-shelf!
That should give you plenty to go on for now - good luck, and I hope you find a good deal!
(PS - and if you don't like that one, but are nearby - I do also have one for sale!
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#3
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Keith, are you Jason's friend up in Seattle... that I talked to via email last night from AudiWorld?
I tried to get in touch with my friend James but he is indeed at ALMS Laguna Seca. These guys here can definitely hook you up though.
I tried to get in touch with my friend James but he is indeed at ALMS Laguna Seca. These guys here can definitely hook you up though.
#4
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Nope. I am in North Carolina. I am heavily involved in SCCA autocrossing and some track day stuff. Right now I am without a good trackday car and I am using my daily driver which is a 2005 Chrysler Crossfire for autocrossing. It works well but I really miss he simple pleasure of having no electronic nannies and manual steering that my Miata had. I fell in love with my friend's 83 944 for how balanced it was with nothing done to it but a set of Koni shocks and a big front sway bar. This car just kind of fell in front of me when I wasn't looking and I think it is really a cool car.
#5
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Crazy. OK then... you are not alone! I heard from someone else who is going to check out a car today and was looking to have this same question answered.... hopefully he sees these posts.
Good luck on your search, the 931 can be quite potent... My friend's car with some engine tuning but still full interior is just as fast as my stripped 944. We have great fun at the track.
Good luck on your search, the 931 can be quite potent... My friend's car with some engine tuning but still full interior is just as fast as my stripped 944. We have great fun at the track.
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Isn't that Shaggy???
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