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DIY: Clutch Replacement

 
 
Old 08-24-2009, 03:34 PM
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RajDatta
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Join Date: Feb 2003
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Default DIY: Clutch Replacement

Parts: 968 clutch kit (includes clutch disk, pressure plate and throw-out bearing), Fork Needle, Needle bearings, Guide Sleeve

Tools:Metric socket set, 3/8 rachet, metric wrench set, Triple square socket set, flywheel lock, copper based lubricant

Its easiest to perform this task by 1st removing the catalytic section of the exhaust.
Tips: Remove the exhaust with the O2 sensor still connected. You can disconnect the O2 sensor from behind the intake manifold. Break off the tiewrap that ties it to the oil filler neck.
Chance are the exhaust nuts/bolts that tie catalytic section to catback are corroded. In this case, you might be best off dropping the entire exhaust as 1 piece. Its much easier to break/cut nuts and bolts when the exhaust is off the car.

Disconnect Battery

Remove Catalytic convertor section of the exhaust by removing 6xM8 nuts/bolts holding the catalytic convertor section to the exhaust manifold, 2xM8 nuts/bolts that attach exhaust to hanger, 4xM8 nuts/bolts that attach to cat back section.
Make sure the O2 wire is disconnected and free. Remove exhaust

Remove starter by removing 2xM10 bolts holding starter to bell housing. Install flywheel lock by inserting it in place of existing starter and reusing M10 bolts

Disconnect clutch slave cylinder by removing 2xM8 bolts, do not disconnect the fluid line, keep it connected or else you will need to bleed the fluid.

Remove 9xM8 bolts/washers from the exhaust side of the bell housing. Remove additional M10 bolts holding clutch cover to bell housing. Once all bolts are removed, the cover should be free of bell housing.

Remove M6 bolt that locks the needle in place by 1st loosening the nut, Install cheesehead M8 bolt on to the needle and pull the needle out.

Remove rubber plug on torque tube, undo 1xM8 cheesehead bolt for clamping sleeve and push it back towards transmission. This should free up your torque tube to clutch setup.

Remove 2xM6 bolts from guide tube. This will free up the sleeve for the clutch.

Remove 9xM6 triple square bolts around the pressure plate. You will need to turn the crank to get to all of them. Use 24mm deep socket to turn crank clockwise. Remove clutch fork out of the housing and then remove pressure plate and disk as 1 unit.

Inspect flywheel for blueing or grooves. Also check to see there is no oil leak from the main crank seal. If the main seal is leaking, you will need to remove the flywheel using 9xM10 triple square bolts.

Inspect needle for grooves and swap if necessary
Remove needle bearings from clutch fork by using a hydraulic press or equivalent.

Installation is reverse of removal.

Make sure all moving parts like guide sleeve, needle, needle bearings, torque tube clamping sleeve and slave cylinder pin are lubed using quality copper lube.

Install guide tube into release bearing.

Insert clutch fork inside the bell housing but leave it out of the way for now.

Install complete clutch assembly to flywheel by hand, do not tighten it yet

Pull the tube clamping sleeve forward into the clutch disk

Tighten clamping tube 1xM8 cheesehead to the tube at 59 ftlb

Tighten all 9xM8 triple square bolts on the pressure plate to the flywheel evenly at 17 ftlb. Turn the crank to gain access to all bolts.

Tighten 2xM6 bolts to guide tube at 7 ftlb

Install release fork by aligning the needle through the fork.

Tighten lock nut for needle fork at 7ftlb

Install side section of bell housing

Install clutch slave cylinder

Install starter

Install exhaust. Make sure you fish the O2 cable back up the firewall and connect it back to its receptacle.

It is work in progress and hopefully i will add pics as we go. Feel free to add anything if you have valuable experience that might help others.
Thanks.
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