951and944S

Bummer, I might have a good used one that meets spec if you want to go that route.

If you have to buy a whole set (which you will) to get a new one, PM me, I'm interested in the grooved uppers.

Thinking about using grooved uppers on both sides.

T

darek_u

Sorry to hijack the thread - just a quick question about measuring bearing clearance with plastigauge. For main bearings - do I need to torque down ALL of the bolts and nuts on the girdle or nuts alone are enough? I'll be doing it next week, just doing a sanity check.

mikehayes

If I've learned anything from this experience, torque down everything. I'm almost positive you could get away with just the 10 19mm's but is the extra 10 minutes (tops) really worth worrying you measurement isn't accurate?

darek_u

Yeah, you are right, it's not worth it. Thanks!

mikehayes

So, in case I haven't proved my complete and utter ineptitude yet, I'll swallow my pride in hopes that some poor idiot in the future benefits from reading this:

The main bearings with two seperate sides are grooved on top and solid on the bottom. Apparently it's easy to overlook the difference if your're a complete moron. I'll take a look tonight and see just how badly I messed up. Thanks T for making this apparent to me.

It'll be a miracle if this engine runs when I'm done with it.

kevin12973

do you still need that bearing? I have a new one . Lindsey was sending two per kit by mistake. Just pay shipping. 518-376-4782

kevin12973

Bearing is boxed up and shipping it out tomorrow. You can thank Lindsey Racing for the bearing. LOL

Tiger03447

Hope that the new one fixes the problem. Fingers crossed...hope it all spins freely..

951and944S

That's very cool of you Kevin.

Mike, per PM, I did have a good one but it looks like Kevin is gonna take care of you on this.

I'll PM to confirm that you are covered.

T

mikehayes

Thank you very much for your help Kevin!

I'm with you man, I'll be sure to give an update once I get it back together.

T thank you again for your offer, I'm going to go with Kevin since his is new. I appreciate everyone's willingness to help me remedy my mistakes!

951and944S

Not a problem. Had found a good one for you but not having to run to Fed-Ex takes at least one thing off my plate.

Make sure (or maybe Kevin already has) that the bearing is identical to the one that came with your set or match it against your old one.

The manual makes a note of a revision from early to late but I would have thought they would have discontinued the one that was replaced.
I think it may have been grooved all the way around inside diameter as opposed to the 220 degrees like the late one.

Take care, and good luck.

Feel free to PM with any questions along the way.

T

mikehayes

Believe me, I'll be going very slowly and checking everything very carefully this time. The biggest reason I messed up last time was because of the 574. I was worried about how fast it would cure so I was in a rush to get everything together. Is there an acceptable amount of time to have it on the flange before I torque everything down? The technical data sheet says put everything together "as soon as possible"

Regardless, it will be much easier now that I have a stand.

951and944S

Yes, you have unlimited time so go slow and be methodical.

The 574 is anaerobic, meaning it only cures in the absence of oxygen that's why it never clogs the tip like RTV or silicone if there's extended time between use.

Go to your hardware or paint store, they have a 3 inch wide velour roller cartridge. You don't have to buy the special roller itself, just form a coat hanger or a tig filler rod into a 1 use handle for the roller cartridge.

This is the proper texture you want on the interface of the two crankcase halves. It's just enough sealant but not too much.

Keep us updated,

T

T&T Racing

I find this topic very helpful because I am about to venture into assembling an '88 engine with no previous Porsche 944 engine building experience. All my engine building experience is Chevy SB vintage 1970's, those were the KISS principle.

I have decided to do the Michael Mount rod journal
bearing modification for the race engine.

I would appreciate any more ideas to simplify the assembly and avoid pitfalls. I know Van has a video posted on assembly.

Scott at Team Harco

I was about to post the answer. You found it. I did exactly the same thing a couple of weeks ago!

I too could not understand why the crank was so hard to turn - and I did check with plasti-gauge.

Took everything apart and started over.