RJ80

I put Stoptech's slotted rotors on mine with Epic Friction pads (the latter recommended by Dave Lindsey at Lindsey Racing). Excellent combination with no noise, low dust, excellent stopping and less expensive than OEM.

DasSilberWedge

Zimmerman drilled rotors here. My car sees the same usage as you described and they've worked great for the last year and a half I've had them. The Porterfield R4-S work pretty well but I changed over to the Stoptech Street Performance pads for most of my driving and they've survived a few autocrosses too without complaint. Would recommend.

If I was to do it over again I think I'd probably do those Stoptech rotors or something similar for the slots.

951Dreams

Do you guys find slotted or drilled causes a big increase in brake dust?

And what pads are known to create the least dust?

Jfrahm

I don't care about dust, in fact I prefer dust to noisy grindy pads and/or rotor eating pads. If you wipe your wheels down with a cloth sprayed with silicone it's really easy to wash the dust off, however it does not bother me at all to have the front wheels dark with brake dust most of the time.

Low dust pads I suppose either create dust that is harder to see or dust that does not stick to the wheels. I think the rotor material that gets ground off is usually less black and maybe less sticky. I prefer pads that have a shorter life and spare the rotors, it's cheap and easy to swap pads.

951Dreams

Normally I'm the same way, but I just washed the car last week, and really cleaned the wheels. 150 miles later they are nasty with brake dust. Even the rears. So when it becomes time I'm just looking for something better.

Tom R.

How much bigger are the turbo/S2 rears than the NA? I bought two sets of rear Bosch Quietcast for the 944S and just a few minutes ago put one rear on, and it is about 1/2" bigger than stock. The specs say 299mm. I think that is a S2/951/911 rotor. they are vented, not slotted, not drilled.

I have them for you cheap since I don't think I can return them. If you are near Denver you can have the four for $80. I bought two sets because the tech inspector thought he saw a crack in one and I wanted a set in the garage since tech inspection is usually only a few days before a DE.

Arominus

299's are turbo/S2 rears, the NA/S takes a 289.

It figures i bought a set of OE rears last year. Which pads are you switching to?

Tom R.

we have the hawk blue pads on it. turns out the rotor doesn't have the beginnings of a crack, but the fourth we bought (you had three new ones) seems to be wearing on the inside faster than the one on the other side so I figured I would buy new ones. I just ordered a pair of 289 zimmermans off of amazon for $95 shipped. Edit, only one came in. lets see what the seller does. I didn't shop around before I ordered, but I don't see them for less than 70 each so I may offer to add $ to get to 140 for the pair if the seller isn't a jerk. Otherwise take them back and I will buy elsewhere.

dionphaneuf

Leaning towards the standard Zimmermans with Pagid or Porterfield pads. Will also replace the wear sensors.

Do I need to replace all the dampers? Good lord these are expensive. Here is what I see:
Front: 4x40 @ $7, 4x36 @ $6
Rear: 4x30 @ $15, 4x28@ $15

That's nearly $175 on dampers!!! WTF? Do these need to be replaced, and do any of the pad kits I mention include these?

If there's any other parts I'm missing, would be great to know.

thomasmryan

On the dampners. I found it easier to install the dampners, then pads and slip the caliper over the rotor. There isn't much space to remove the paper with new rotors and pads.

Pad rattle is annoying.

No Lag

Ah yes the dampers. I could'nt quite figure out which was the correct size. In the end I reused the old ones. Still sticky and stuck to the new pads. I did degrease the back of the pad for best results and fiqured worst case I replace them later, however it's all good no noise etc. My only problem was the brake sensors. My break light is on so I don't think one of them is plugged in all the way. Aftermarket sensor didn't quite fit like the stock ones. I did keep the old plugs and shorted the wires so I could use them to trouble shoot which one isn't plugged in all the way.

Mister Quickie

It'd be remiss not to mention that if the goal is stopping distance as opposed to aesthetics, that (less) weight will do more than high performance pads/rotors. If you're able to drop 50-100 lbs (between the car and yourself combined), the benefits will be far more noticeable.

DasSilberWedge

I skipped buying new ones and spent time to (carefully) clean them up and just reused them. They've been fine for the last two years I've driven the car.

DasSilberWedge

Between the Porterfield R4-S and the Stoptech Street Performance pads I've tried, the Stoptech was the least dusty pad. Not sure how much it has to do with the pad vs me not cleaning the wheels soon enough?.. But here goes another 8 hours cleaning them

Maybe try a ceramic pad?

Tom R.

We had Porterfield's on the S and switched to Hawk blue. The porterfields didn't last as long as we think they should have.

I have the stoptech on my 128i. They are nice for the street, OK for autocross, and good for a 20 minute track session. After about 20 minutes I think they lost some bite - or I lost some skills.

I would recommend the stoptechs for a street/track car, and the porterfields or hawks for a track/street car like our S