Dear Rust,
05-12-2017, 03:03 AM
#16
Three Wheelin'
05-13-2017, 01:42 PM
#17
Racer
Join Date: Sep 2016
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05-15-2017, 04:31 AM
#18
Rennlist Member
Last time I drove the 87 was in 2 inches of snow. Not because I wanted to, but because I work nights, and I work 12 hours, AND i don't check the weather.... like ever. I was a nice day when I left for work, turned to snow overnight!!! LOL
Maybe the HG was it's revenge?
Maybe the HG was it's revenge?
05-26-2017, 03:35 PM
#19
Racer
Thread Starter
So here's the deal. It's rusted through both the inner and outer panels in that spot; however, the exterior of both were almost completely intact. What that tells me is it rusted from the inside out, meaning water got in there from somewhere up above. I can fix the hole, but that probably won't stop the water intrusion. Any clues where the water might be getting in?
05-26-2017, 10:13 PM
#20
So here's the deal. It's rusted through both the inner and outer panels in that spot; however, the exterior of both were almost completely intact. What that tells me is it rusted from the inside out, meaning water got in there from somewhere up above. I can fix the hole, but that probably won't stop the water intrusion. Any clues where the water might be getting in?
There is no paint inside the rocker sills so rust can easily form there.
Moisture can condense inside the rocker panels, especially given how low to the ground they are. And if the sill drains are clogged, which isn't unheard of, moisture/water can enter via capillary action. Between those two it is not hard for water to enter.
I guess water from a leaking sunroof or hatch could get inside, pool underneath the carpet and find its way into the sills. But I don't think any appreciable amount could build up in there from a leak.
05-29-2017, 08:10 AM
#22
Rennlist Member
+1 on what TR said. Be sure to check up above the wheel arch lip inside the fender and get rid of any dirt that may be up there, too. That will rust out too. a body shop can fix this..be sure they graft in a nice patch, and have them cold galvanize (spray can) the affected area from the inside as well. After you get it back from the body shop, pull the seats, and then pull back the carpets on the outside chassis rail. you will find several rubber plugs in that rail. Pull the plugs and fluid film down in there too. That will protect the chassis rails and some rocker access is in there also. If you want to FF the entire rocker, there are more plugs at the rear of the rockers in front of the rear tire buried under the undercoat. Pull these, and FF up into the rocker also, or take it to a garage where they can do bulk dispensers. FF is a lanolin based product and will repel moisture...I have done this on both of the lower areas of the inside where your rust spot is located, as well as up inside the area above the rear wheel inside the trim panels where it meets the outer skin inside the cabin. If this car ever catches fire, it will go up quickly...looks like I'll have to enlarge the sunroof opening for clearance when I hit the ejection seat..LOL
06-12-2017, 08:44 PM
#24
Rennlist Member
Interesting. The one thing my 944S doesn't really have is rust. As opposed to my old 914's, where rust was a factory installed option....
(I used to think they sprayed the insides of the rocker panels with salt water at the factory. Just to do it.)
(I used to think they sprayed the insides of the rocker panels with salt water at the factory. Just to do it.)
06-12-2017, 09:27 PM
#25
Rennlist Member
That's what factory galvanization on all Porsche's since 1980 get's ya. Wanna see rust look at a Supra or 280Z or 300Z. +++++++1 Goes to Porsche for that decision, it's saved countless cars!
08-27-2017, 11:30 PM
#27
Race Car
08-27-2017, 11:40 PM
#28
Race Car
https://www.tat-co.com/Products/Repa...oat-Chip-Guard
4303 is the one I use. Just rather the white.
You need to experiment with throttle, distance and speed travel of can on a scrap material.
Practice and you can replicate factory look perfectly.
You really should have gotten inside there, cleaned, dried and treated the inside or the problem will be back soon.
I use a spot blaster with a rubber press nozzle to minimize sand flying all over.
Acid etch primed, then a urethane sealer, all TranStar products.
T
4303 is the one I use. Just rather the white.
You need to experiment with throttle, distance and speed travel of can on a scrap material.
Practice and you can replicate factory look perfectly.
You really should have gotten inside there, cleaned, dried and treated the inside or the problem will be back soon.
I use a spot blaster with a rubber press nozzle to minimize sand flying all over.
Acid etch primed, then a urethane sealer, all TranStar products.
T
08-27-2017, 11:48 PM
#29
Rennlist Member
Whack a mole describes it. I just replaced and fixed all the AC, heat, and water issues on my 87 944S and the darn belt broke.
No, not the timing belt, the alternator belt. Bit easier to replace, but after 230k miles it's about time for the factory belt to go bye bye.
No, not the timing belt, the alternator belt. Bit easier to replace, but after 230k miles it's about time for the factory belt to go bye bye.
08-27-2017, 11:49 PM
#30
Race Car
Right side, epoxy primer, sanded (Tex Coat requires sand scratches to adhere) with Tex Coat applied.
Right side, paint/clear showing factory-like texture.
T
Right side, paint/clear showing factory-like texture.
T