Archeologists have found amazingly well preserved animals buried for centuries in peat bogs...

 

Yesterday I got the balance and timing belts off, put new idlers and tensioners on both the timing and balance shafts, and put the new belts on, and I'm pretty sure I didn't miss any teeth while lining it up. My arnworx tool says the tension is right, too, I think. I also spun the water pump by hand, and it spins easily with no dead spots.

Also here's the options sticker.(I linked it because I don't know how to embed thumbnails in this forum).

I think it says C77, 220, 418, 423, 425, 567, 946.

Respectively
Catalytic Converter
Limited Slip Differential
Side Molding
Casette Holder & Coin Box
Rear Windshield Wiper
Windshield Gradiated Green Sun Tint
Partial Front Leather Seats

 

 

Very rare to find one with the limited slip diff option, although some would argue that it is not necessary on a car with the power of the NA motor. Good job on rescuing and treating this one right!

 

You may need some assistance on getting the first one into place. Hook the hood strut to the hood first, use the weight of the hood to help compress the strut and with a third hand, guide the ball into the socket. The second one should be easier. This way you don't risk putting a bulge in the aluminum hood in case it slips...Hope this helps some.

 

I've been replacing a lot of struts lately (5 on the Cayenne, 2 on the 968, 2 on the M45). When they are too long, you normally have to lift the hood or hatch or whatever you are fixing a little past what feels like the normal travel to get it to fit. Be gentle and don't go too far and bend something, but having to move the thing far enough for the strut end to clip onto the ball is "normal".

cheers,
c

 

Aluminum hood?

 

DearTrekintosh: Please read Zogster's column on hood replacement. Esp the part about strut removal and padding the windshield. Lots of good tips there.

 

So I finally got the hood struts in. My dad came to visit and made it extremely easy by...

lifting the hood up slightly more than I had. That was all it needed.

Though now it's kinda difficult to close the hood all the way because the struts are so strong :P

 

I cracked a windshield doing that once. I was probably pushing a lot harder than you were but the beck corner of the hood was pushing into the glass.
My $.02

 

Holy nuts! I'm back in action!

Car: In garage.

Timing job: Totally redone as one of the tensioners had come loose while towing. Now all tensioners are cranked down like a **** and tension is set within spec on the Arnworx tool.

Intake assembly: Reassembled.

Engine: Cranked around a few times via the crank pully. Timing and balance shafts are holding true to their timing marks. No skipped teeth.

Starter: Stone cold dead. Picking up a new one today.

Fuel pump: Working!

Fuel lines: Not clogged.

Fuel pressure: It exists! I don't have a gauge to put on the fuel rail, but it spits a fair bit when the pump is turned on.




Question time!

My grease monkey friend who has revived my interest in this vehicle says his uncle has a "race chip" from his 85 944. I assume it's an EEPROM to stick in the computer in place of the stock one, as he said you desolder a chip from the computer and solder on the new one (no problem there, I have a vacuum desoldering pump. I'd add a socket if doing this). He says it gives +25hp, +20tq, and an 8k rev limiter. I'm curious if this 85 chip will fit my 83 computer, and if it would be worth it. I'm told it's "The exact same chip as the 944 race car". Yeah right. Still, though, some little bit of more power would be nice. I'm not keen on the increased rev limiter on my tired old car, but I can also just not rev that high myself.

So the questions: Would it work in my early 1983 car? Would said car pass smog(California, woo!) after installing said chip? Would said chip require high octane gasoline?

I'm trying to get a picture of this magical chip to see if there's any identifying info for you guys.

 

Get the car running first.

+25hp, +20tq, and an 8k rev limiter. No, no and nope. Probably 5-8 hp, same on torq, and at 8K revs you will be picking up pieces of your engine.

Oil pump cavitates about 7200 rpm, and with stock oiling system you are part way through the #2 rod bearing babbitt alloy.

Stay with the stock setup, you're not driving a race car. "This is actually going to be my commuter car." Remember?

BTW, you've made remarkable progress in rescuing this 944. and I'm sure you will enjoy it thoroughly, even if left stock!

 

Exactly what Paul said. No 145hp NA engine is going to pick up 25hp from a chip. Back in the day, these chips only claimed 7hp or so.

cheers,
c

 

Drive it for a long time before trying to improve performance. Based on where you started, you will naturally run into more issues. The more you modify it, you add potential for additional problems and you add more confounding variables to your troubleshooting process.

A 944 NA is not and will never be a stoplight to stoplight warrior. You don't need the additional power to do what these cars are great at.

 

Go to YouTube and check out edredas comparison of a performance chip in his '88 924. He does an honest end-user review with/without chip and explains the 24 pin 28 pin.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=td8PLwHdvew