944 1985.1 Break Down Help - Track Ready
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944 1985.1 Break Down Help - Track Ready
Now that the 944 is back on the road we're getting ready to head into the garage for stripping to lose the extras and weight! While we are at their are a few items we'de like gone foremost.
A: Power Steering Assembly.
B: HVAC (Heat & AC) systems
C: we're removing interior for the cage as we proceed.
I have the diagrams of the assemblies. Would removing any of the components lead to an immediate failure or problem within the DMA/start sequence or operating sequence without prior precaution?
We'll start with the Cruise Control. I am assuming just removing this would be fine.
-Remove the Cruise Control Computer unit.
-Disconnect the cable #12 and remove the drive link assembly #5.
-Remove associated bracket #16 and do I need to remove the reverse lever #13? and associated bushing #23? Do I plug this? Where does point #24 lead off from, should that be plugged or otherwise routed as well?
Thank for your help, Ill still reading up and understanding the HVAC for removal so that will be next. Hope this helpful for the next guy in my shoes.
A: Power Steering Assembly.
B: HVAC (Heat & AC) systems
C: we're removing interior for the cage as we proceed.
I have the diagrams of the assemblies. Would removing any of the components lead to an immediate failure or problem within the DMA/start sequence or operating sequence without prior precaution?
We'll start with the Cruise Control. I am assuming just removing this would be fine.
-Remove the Cruise Control Computer unit.
-Disconnect the cable #12 and remove the drive link assembly #5.
-Remove associated bracket #16 and do I need to remove the reverse lever #13? and associated bushing #23? Do I plug this? Where does point #24 lead off from, should that be plugged or otherwise routed as well?
Thank for your help, Ill still reading up and understanding the HVAC for removal so that will be next. Hope this helpful for the next guy in my shoes.
#2
You can rip most everything out of the chassis and still have the engine run. Mainly you need to worry about keeping the wiring for the DME Relay unless you wire the fuel pump on its own, wiring to the square 12 pin connector behind the brake booster on the firewall, and the signal wire to the starter solenoid for starting.
I have also found that there is a wire going to the back of the alternator that provides 12V power allowing the alternator to excite and produce power. This circuit is wired to a light bulb on the dash that goes out once the alternator produces power. If you delete this wire, then you need to rev the engine past something like 2k RPM for the alternator to self excite and produce power.
The only caveat is if you have an alarm system with some theft deterrent built in. I have heard of that system causing some issues when removing wiring for a track car.
I have also found that there is a wire going to the back of the alternator that provides 12V power allowing the alternator to excite and produce power. This circuit is wired to a light bulb on the dash that goes out once the alternator produces power. If you delete this wire, then you need to rev the engine past something like 2k RPM for the alternator to self excite and produce power.
The only caveat is if you have an alarm system with some theft deterrent built in. I have heard of that system causing some issues when removing wiring for a track car.
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Thanks for the heads up on the 12V piggy backs.
We'll begin remove the cruise control today.
Here's a shot of her now in the shop, AutoMachen is our team name if wondering
and heres the rear seats and coverings removed. Ill be going over with a scrape and solution to remove the buildup adhesive as well.
We'll begin remove the cruise control today.
Here's a shot of her now in the shop, AutoMachen is our team name if wondering
and heres the rear seats and coverings removed. Ill be going over with a scrape and solution to remove the buildup adhesive as well.
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This 944 is being built within the Midwest Council of Sports Car Clubs -GCR Ver.B for Production E Class. All safety requirements are being outfitted above and beyond to the GT-Spec 2 class for interior/roll specifications. I have the GCR in hand and in the shop several places to make sure everything techs out.
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Lot done yesterday! We pulled the cruise control drive, CC computer and link cable.
Removed both seats, inspected wiring and pulled all the carpet except under the ac/radio dash figured when the bar goes through they can pull it or I will but I have to find a new dash array and mounts for centre.
Hoping to pull the HVAC this over the rest of the weekend any suggestions or tips to watch for while removing?
Removed both seats, inspected wiring and pulled all the carpet except under the ac/radio dash figured when the bar goes through they can pull it or I will but I have to find a new dash array and mounts for centre.
Hoping to pull the HVAC this over the rest of the weekend any suggestions or tips to watch for while removing?
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SO yesterday we attacked the chassis again using a low solvent acid and removed the adhesive and extra carpeting. We are still checking with the MCSCC GRC for guidelines on chassis paint of some approved texturized spray/coat paint.
Cruise Control is removed, well be pulling the rear hatch motor and redoing the tail and buss wiring harnesses.
Tuesday we'll begin with the HVAC, just thought Id ask once again are their any details or caveats to be aware of when removing the HVAC system? input would be much appreciated.
Cruise Control is removed, well be pulling the rear hatch motor and redoing the tail and buss wiring harnesses.
Tuesday we'll begin with the HVAC, just thought Id ask once again are their any details or caveats to be aware of when removing the HVAC system? input would be much appreciated.