No tach bounce problem.
08-01-2016, 02:44 PM
#34
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Yeah the DME relay is a super common problem but it might be too inexpensive a repair for them to suggest. Of maybe they just do not know anything about 944s.
I say get a new Stribel DME relay replacement and run it. You can keep this one in the car as a spare but I would not trust it, re-flow the solder joints if you want to feel like you might have fixed it. It's too risky to run a questionable one, you could poop out in the left lane in a traffic jam and then what?
I say get a new Stribel DME relay replacement and run it. You can keep this one in the car as a spare but I would not trust it, re-flow the solder joints if you want to feel like you might have fixed it. It's too risky to run a questionable one, you could poop out in the left lane in a traffic jam and then what?
08-01-2016, 03:05 PM
#35
Rennlist Member
I'd sure like to hear about what he saw on that o-scope to justify replacing them. And at about $80 each (retail) for new Bosch sensors, $915 is a hefty bill if that's all he did, though I suppose they get much more expensive if they come in a PCNA box... The cheapest replacement relay at Pelican is $14.50. At that price, you might get two or three and keep the extras in the glove box...
08-01-2016, 03:12 PM
#36
Three Wheelin'
You drive a Porsche right ? Get the one that says Porsche, unless you want to continue down the path of 'fix it again frustration'.
For all the disturbing complaints I have read or heard of concerning 'uro' branded parts, I am amazed this company is still making and selling parts. I said something negative on their website once, and within minutes got a reply from the head guy in America wholesaling this stuff into our country for these cars. I got the definite 'read' I was no longer welcome. So be it.
Most all their parts are made in China, Turkey, or some other high quality control country which supports imitating and merchandising product that employs under age and under paid workers. The whole system of abusive employer/ employee relations exist for one reason: profiting at the expense of quality. Quality of life, Quality of Product.
I don't buy any of it. Get the real deal and be done.
JM2C
08-01-2016, 08:53 PM
#38
Rennlist Member
08-02-2016, 10:32 AM
#40
Track Day
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So I drove it home no problem and in the morning there was a lot of dew on the car. it started up, the rear hatch opened up and about 10 seconds later the car died. did the paper clip trick and it drives fine.
2 questions
1) A new DME Relay is on the way but what is the negative of using the paperclip?
2) Any idea on why the hatch is opening a few seconds before it dies? that has happened twice.
2 questions
1) A new DME Relay is on the way but what is the negative of using the paperclip?
2) Any idea on why the hatch is opening a few seconds before it dies? that has happened twice.
08-02-2016, 11:38 AM
#41
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
A paper clip is pretty small, it might get hot. Also you probably noticed that the fuel pump runs all the time and thus the battery runs down if you try to park that way. It can also cause a big fire in a crash or if there is a small fire it might get REALLY large because you can't key off the car and shut down the fuel pump.
No idea why your hatch opened, did it open electrically or just pop open due to alignment or latch issues?
No idea why your hatch opened, did it open electrically or just pop open due to alignment or latch issues?
08-02-2016, 06:01 PM
#44
Three Wheelin'
The rear hatch opening MAY have something to do with a bad switch at the left hand side of the front footwell. ( possibly wet ? Shorting out ? )
I had this issue ( hatch opening voluntarily, but not causing a shutting down of the engine ) when the car was but a month old, the summer of 1984. Turned out it was traced to a pinched wire where the switch plugged thru the carpeting and a bare wire was rubbing into the the metal under the carpet. It was assembled at the factory this way and the chafing of the wire became bad enough within the first month of ownership, it shorted thru the wire coating, burned a little hole in the insulation, and would open the hatch randomnly...... especially over a jarring bump on the street.
Altho , in your case I believe you have more going on than this symptom. It is relative but I doubt it is the cause of the car shutting off. See the posting directly above mine as to the relational issues of grounding.
I would look up the chart on Clark's Garage ( google that bad boy and book mark it for future reference, as it IS that good ) for the postions of all your grounds. Then take some emery cloth, a file, a dental pick, steel wool, sand paper, ANYTHING abrasive..... clean each and every one of them, with special attention to the large acorn nut ground under your dash ( this is where a series one DME is also located for those others who are reading this ) and clean them all to GLEEMING. So bright you will need shades. Do them all, paying like attention to your negative battery cable and grounding, protecting them at the same time from future wet conditions. Look over that DME box on your Series 2 location.... (you DID say on your first post it was an '85.2, correct ?) and if it shows it has been wet and has any corrosion on it, replace it AFTER you have dried out the leaks.
Best Wishes with finding and resolving your electrical issues
I had this issue ( hatch opening voluntarily, but not causing a shutting down of the engine ) when the car was but a month old, the summer of 1984. Turned out it was traced to a pinched wire where the switch plugged thru the carpeting and a bare wire was rubbing into the the metal under the carpet. It was assembled at the factory this way and the chafing of the wire became bad enough within the first month of ownership, it shorted thru the wire coating, burned a little hole in the insulation, and would open the hatch randomnly...... especially over a jarring bump on the street.
Altho , in your case I believe you have more going on than this symptom. It is relative but I doubt it is the cause of the car shutting off. See the posting directly above mine as to the relational issues of grounding.
I would look up the chart on Clark's Garage ( google that bad boy and book mark it for future reference, as it IS that good ) for the postions of all your grounds. Then take some emery cloth, a file, a dental pick, steel wool, sand paper, ANYTHING abrasive..... clean each and every one of them, with special attention to the large acorn nut ground under your dash ( this is where a series one DME is also located for those others who are reading this ) and clean them all to GLEEMING. So bright you will need shades. Do them all, paying like attention to your negative battery cable and grounding, protecting them at the same time from future wet conditions. Look over that DME box on your Series 2 location.... (you DID say on your first post it was an '85.2, correct ?) and if it shows it has been wet and has any corrosion on it, replace it AFTER you have dried out the leaks.
Best Wishes with finding and resolving your electrical issues
08-03-2016, 12:33 PM
#45
Track Day
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well I've cleaned the rust off the DME relay and it'll still fails in the morning when the car has dew on it but once it gets going with a paperclip it runs and starts just fine the rest of the day without the paperclip. New DME relay is on the way.
I was very disappointed in the lack of power when I first bought the car but now that the DME is fixed... I must have been driving around with only 80-90 hp.
I was very disappointed in the lack of power when I first bought the car but now that the DME is fixed... I must have been driving around with only 80-90 hp.
Last edited by nelso419; 08-03-2016 at 01:16 PM.