Definitive Rotor Guide (hopefully with your help)
09-16-2016, 05:39 PM
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I've been late to posting my latest experience, and its only a partial. I haven't had enough seat time to really say one way or another, but I ran Centric (rock auto's cheapies) and Hawk HP+ at a recent track day. I felt that the car stopped sufficiently - was able to go pretty deep into turns, but I don't have a point of reference on the car yet. Unfortunately my day ended prematurely as my motor blew, so i only got about 45-50 min actual track time. I would say that overall, i noticed some very slight fade, but after letting the car cool down, the brakes were fine again. I suppose if I am able to rebuild the motor, i'll slap on some higher end rotors for comparison.
09-16-2016, 05:46 PM
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I use Sebro solid rotors. I usually get 2-3 seasons out of them in the front. And many, many seasons out of the rear.
To the OP, I think you're over thinking it for an NA car. The Sebro rotors for $45~ish are fantastic bang-for-the-buck. Could you argue that slotted, dimpled, cross-drilled, plated, etc. have some marginally beneficial attributes? Sure... but are they worth the additional cost? I don't think so.
To the OP, I think you're over thinking it for an NA car. The Sebro rotors for $45~ish are fantastic bang-for-the-buck. Could you argue that slotted, dimpled, cross-drilled, plated, etc. have some marginally beneficial attributes? Sure... but are they worth the additional cost? I don't think so.
part two here is whether there is a tradeoff on longevity vs. stopping power - which i think it seems obvious, but sometimes things are not as they seem.
