Otto Mechanic

Hello All -

I'm having clearance problems re-installing the clutch bell housing on a 1989 944 S2. While the housing was off I replaced the engine mounts with Asher Racing "Super Mounts" and I'd like to know if anyone else has seen this problem?

Looks like the engine might be just a little bit higher than it used to be, now I can't get clearance between the firewall and the clutch (which of course is also a new Spec Stage 4+).

I'm thinking about putting a jack under the engine, loosening the crossmember bolts to lower it about a half inch, re-installing the clutch housing and then raising the crossmember back up. It would be a real pain in the butt if I had to do this every time I needed to get at the clutch so before I do it I figured I'd ask if there was something simple I missed?

Anyone else using these mounts?

Arominus

Don't those have extra spacers you can remove? Dropping the crossmember should do the trick.

Otto Mechanic

The "Super Mounts" don't have spacers, they're in a single piece. I expect you're thinking of the "Ultra Mounts", which are a different outfit.

I imagine I'll just drop the crossmember unless I hear otherwise before getting back on it in the morning. It can't be off by more than a half inch. Maybe they compress after use...

Otto Mechanic

I should also mention I'm a bit worried about re-connecting the drive shaft and torque tube to a crankshaft that could be a bit higher than it used to be ...

Otto Mechanic

Then again, I'm also using the Asher Racing transmission mounts so with any luck the drive shaft alignment will be correct.

And since I'm naming names on the drive train rebuild, I replaced the "split" S2 torque tube with a salvaged solid 944 Turbo tube, then installed the heavy duty "Super Bearings" from Constantine at Black Sea R&D. I'm really hoping this is going to be a very smooth drive train so I'm paying careful attention to alignments. Maybe a little **** about it...

Tiger03447

Sounds like it might be time to give the Asher folks a call..and then consider a 3 piece crossmember, if you are into the clutch a lot..That might help some...to give more clearance if you have to raise and lower the engine often.

Otto Mechanic

Which do you recommend? Now would be the best time for me to do it and I know I'm going to be back there to refresh my crank bearings and put in oil scrapers and pan baffles.

If you have some experience with the 3 points I'd appreciate hearing about them?

Otto Mechanic

Never mind. I found what I was looking for at Lindsey.

Thanks for reminding me. I had planned on a 3 part crossmember when I started this and forgot about it completely until you mentioned it. Great solution.

Thanks again.

Otto Mechanic

So, just to close the loop, dropping the cross member and lowering the engine about 3/4 of an inch did the trick, the bell housing is back on.

I'm still going to call Asher and ask them about this since now I'm worried I'm going to have trouble with the torque tube and drive shaft, though I am using their trans. mount so maybe that compensates for the geometry change. I'll report on that later.

Otto Mechanic

Turns out that's much easier suggested than done

I can't find contact information for Asher on the web. I bought the mounts through Pelican so I've sent the question to them. Maybe they no how to contact Asher. We'll see...

Otto Mechanic

I was able to locate Asher's telephone number by searching this list, it turns out they're just down the road from my shop, same area code. Who would have thought?

They returned my call this morning and confirmed the new mounts do return the engine geometry to factory specs (the vertical dimension is identical to the original hydraulic mounts used by Porsche). No special attention is needed to otherwise adjust the cross member height and the mounts will settle very slightly over time.

So the drive train goes in today.