Broken exhaust stud
#1
Nordschleife Master
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OK, what am I in for?
It broke while on the car, I've never touched this bolt nor has any mechanic in the 2+ years I've had the car. It broke due to shear based on looking at the bolt break. To clarify, I'm talking about the stud coming right off the head...
So How likely is it that I'll be able to get this out with an easy-out or something along those lines? What needs to come off for me to get to it? It's on the #2 cylinder (when counting from the front of the engine back). Does the crossover pipe need to come off or can I just remove the exhaust manifold?
TIA,
Adrial
P.S. Any problems with running the car like this on the track? Will the exhaust definetely leak? Or could it hold just because its been sitting there for so long and because of the design of the exhaust manifold?
It broke while on the car, I've never touched this bolt nor has any mechanic in the 2+ years I've had the car. It broke due to shear based on looking at the bolt break. To clarify, I'm talking about the stud coming right off the head...
So How likely is it that I'll be able to get this out with an easy-out or something along those lines? What needs to come off for me to get to it? It's on the #2 cylinder (when counting from the front of the engine back). Does the crossover pipe need to come off or can I just remove the exhaust manifold?
TIA,
Adrial
P.S. Any problems with running the car like this on the track? Will the exhaust definetely leak? Or could it hold just because its been sitting there for so long and because of the design of the exhaust manifold?
#2
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ouch bro, i feel for you. i've never done it on a car engine, however i have had to do it on a couple of airplane engines. you can get it out with an ez out more than likely. if not, the only other option is to drill the whole thing completely out and retap it, unless you are damn good with a welder.
#4
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You'll have to remove the exhaust manifolds. Just unbolt them from the collectors and head and remove. Get an ez out and drill bit, ONE size larger than recommended. This will cut down a bit on your leeway in drilling, but will help make certain you don't break the ez out off in the bolt- yikes! You have a couple options in drilling, get a dremel type tool or get a right angle set up for a standard drill (not too bad at the local hardware store, mine was like $15). Center punch the bolt, drill it ALL the way through. This relieves the radial pressure on the bolt to head. Squirt some type of penetrating lube into the back of the bolt, through the hole you've just drilled and onto the front of the broken stud. Allow it to soak a bit. Apply the ez out carefully. I've never had this fail for me on any bolts or studs. Just remember to get a larger size ez out and bit than the charts recommend and to drill all the way through the stud. Takes a bit of time, but isn't hard to do. I had to get out three when I got my car. It took about 1.5 hours to get all three done. I spent more time removing and reinstalling the headers.
#5
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Buy a left handed twist drill bit. (normal bits are right handed). at worst you will still drill through the bolt and remove the stud as dave951m has laid out. best case it just catches and comes out on its own.. You will need a reversable drill motor though and will run it in reverse..
#6
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Originally posted by Dave951M
I had to get out three when I got my car. It took about 1.5 hours to get all three done. I spent more time removing and reinstalling the headers.
I had to get out three when I got my car. It took about 1.5 hours to get all three done. I spent more time removing and reinstalling the headers.