Calmchaos

Hello,

A few years ago I the rear rubber suspension bushings in my car with machined plastic parts. I don't remember where from, but ever since then the rear of my car has made truly awful squeaks and creaks. It is not the worst on the street but I live on a dirt road and the washboarded roads make a tremendous noise.

I am looking for suggestions on what to do. I have ruled out the hatch glass because it still happens when it is completely removed.

The original rubber bushings are very expensive. Does anyone think I could make my own rubber bushings out of RTV? I have access to a 3D printer that can make polycarbonate parts for me to mold them.

I tried WD40 and it kind of works for 10-20 minutes but then back to creaks. I have the original rubber transmission mount and no rubber sound dampening carpet bits in the back.

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated, and please ask me for any more information you may need to help me out.

Thanks!

tempest411

Elephant Racing has them if you don't want to spring for the Porsche ones. I purchased the trailing arm pivot ones from them. They were a pain to install...I won't know how well they'll work for quite a while though.

thomasmryan

2nd the motion on Chucks spring plate bushings. I used the street hardness version


It is best practice to torque the fasteners with the suspension loaded.

Dave W.

I'd also recommend using Prothane grease when you replace the bushings. It's available at many auto parts stores and online.

Calmchaos

I am almost certain I did not torque all the fasteners with the suspension loaded.
Could this cause noises?

Thanks for the part suggestions. I think what I have in there now (it's been a while) is something along these lines.
http://www.paragon-products.com/Welt...elt_pb-021.htm

Lindsey racing looks to have stock rubber.
Would I need a press for this guy? http://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Pors...501-069-A.html
Or does it divide in half somewhere?

How much rubber is in the elephant racing trailing arm bushings? It doesn't look like much.

thomasmryan

the powerflex bushings came with copper neversieze. i dont think mine made any noise but they where short lived and frequently removed/lubbed.

those are the carrier bushings in your post that isolates the torque tube from the body. they can be installed with a c-clamp or vise. 'they say' you can lower each side without removing the exhaust but it never works that way for me. it takes a little room to get around the safety tabs and rotate the carrier plate out. (be prepared with a new exhaust donut and hardware. a sack of copper split lock type nuts are cheap at mccaster-carr.)

the spring plate bushings are part of the spring plate. elephant racing has the rubber and poly bronze version replacement bushings. if yours are original, the spring plate may be rubbing on the carrier due to creep and age.
removing the old rubber isn't fun but try to keep the plating intact. the rubber ones are fine for me.

i regretted not changing the inner trailing arm bushings while it was apart...that job is on the horizon.

ramps work to get 95ft#s on the shock nut with the wheels loaded.

Calmchaos

I would think the copper never seize would be bad for aluminum parts. Not the worst tho.