Manual window conversion...
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Manual window conversion...
Any of you good folks done this? I'm trying to gather a parts list, but need to be sure I have everything.
Basically, we are using the 924 manual window parts, and this should work for all 924/944/968:
left lifter
right lifter
guide rail (may not be needed)
window crank
window crank base
window crank base gasket
Anything else? I'm assuming all of this will fit behind the standard door panels, and that all we need to do is punch a hole.
FWIW, total cost of the parts listed above will be just over $250. Any interest?
I'll have to see what's already available as inner door skins, but we may look for RSA style replacements to be manufactured to make better use of the kit. 924 skins may fit, but they are heavy and this is likely a racer mod only.
Thanks!
Basically, we are using the 924 manual window parts, and this should work for all 924/944/968:
left lifter
right lifter
guide rail (may not be needed)
window crank
window crank base
window crank base gasket
Anything else? I'm assuming all of this will fit behind the standard door panels, and that all we need to do is punch a hole.
FWIW, total cost of the parts listed above will be just over $250. Any interest?
I'll have to see what's already available as inner door skins, but we may look for RSA style replacements to be manufactured to make better use of the kit. 924 skins may fit, but they are heavy and this is likely a racer mod only.
Thanks!
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So, you've already installed the driver's side? Did you have to replace the guide rail? It looks like a match for most models, but the late (87+) cars use a different part#. What about nuts, bolts, washers, etc? Doesn't look like we need any, but I can't be sure.
#4
How much weight will you save by doing this?
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#5
You mean the little guide rail for the regulator that is held to the inner door skin with machine screws? I think you should just use what is aready in the car. Why replace it? If that is the part you are talking about I know there are at least two different lengths, just slightly different.
#6
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Dang Skippy! You work FAST...
$250 for a compelete set (minus door panels) sounds good to me. $250 per side is a little steep. I would not care about the door panels in my 944 -spec car. I would just cut the existing ones. I do like the manual windows however. Mostly since I need to keep the windows to keep the crap out of the car and manual would probably save weight and complexity. The guys that would want the door panels are the street/track guys who want to save some weight, but still keep the car looking good. Heck these could be the start of 944, 951 Club Sport conversion.
$250 for a compelete set (minus door panels) sounds good to me. $250 per side is a little steep. I would not care about the door panels in my 944 -spec car. I would just cut the existing ones. I do like the manual windows however. Mostly since I need to keep the windows to keep the crap out of the car and manual would probably save weight and complexity. The guys that would want the door panels are the street/track guys who want to save some weight, but still keep the car looking good. Heck these could be the start of 944, 951 Club Sport conversion.
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That price is for both, complete - I can't imagine anyone would want only one side. Here's the breakdown:
left lifter $109
right lifter $132
guide rail (may not be needed) $7.25 x2
window crank $2 x2
window crank base $1.25 x2
window crank base gasket $.75 x2
From what I can tell, the guide rail *may* only be needed on 87+ 944/951/S/S2/968. If the bolts are all okay, as it seems they may be, then that's the total cost> $249 or $263.50 w/guide rails.
Since the dash and door panels are formed differently from 924 to 944 85.5+, the 924 door panels may not work out well for later models. I think the best cost-effective approach would be to find a manufacturer to make RSA-like door panels. CF or F panels would probably cost too much and not have a real target audience (are door panels required by 944-spec or ITS?).
left lifter $109
right lifter $132
guide rail (may not be needed) $7.25 x2
window crank $2 x2
window crank base $1.25 x2
window crank base gasket $.75 x2
From what I can tell, the guide rail *may* only be needed on 87+ 944/951/S/S2/968. If the bolts are all okay, as it seems they may be, then that's the total cost> $249 or $263.50 w/guide rails.
Since the dash and door panels are formed differently from 924 to 944 85.5+, the 924 door panels may not work out well for later models. I think the best cost-effective approach would be to find a manufacturer to make RSA-like door panels. CF or F panels would probably cost too much and not have a real target audience (are door panels required by 944-spec or ITS?).
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dang,now this is what i really need and what great timing!my window switches just went and i am tired of trying to fix it(i also ruined my window tint...dont ask)the window motors are pretty heavy,and this would save some electricity!
#13
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Not sure about ITS. I do know that ITS does allow door gutting for nascar style cages.
944-spec allows door gutting period. All you need to comply is the outside door skin.
I recomend to everyone that if they leave there door glass in the car that they also leve the door panels in place. My fear is during a side impact the glass can break and got flying into the driver's legs. I feel safer know that those glass fragments would at least need to punch through cardboard panel.
If I were building a street legal track car similar to a 968 CS or an interpreation of a 944 Turbo Cup or even teh 924 Carrera GTS that started this then some nice light weight simple door panels would be really cool. Most guys can do the rear carpet this type of look, but the door panels can be tougher.
Ideal 951 track car
No Radio, no A/C, Keep heat, No Sunroof or manual, Manual steering, Manual windows, light weight door panels. Remove sound proofing under carpet, ditch rear seats. In stall light weight carpet over metal interior to give it a clean finished look, Two light weight racing buckets with roll bar.
944-spec allows door gutting period. All you need to comply is the outside door skin.
I recomend to everyone that if they leave there door glass in the car that they also leve the door panels in place. My fear is during a side impact the glass can break and got flying into the driver's legs. I feel safer know that those glass fragments would at least need to punch through cardboard panel.
If I were building a street legal track car similar to a 968 CS or an interpreation of a 944 Turbo Cup or even teh 924 Carrera GTS that started this then some nice light weight simple door panels would be really cool. Most guys can do the rear carpet this type of look, but the door panels can be tougher.
Ideal 951 track car
No Radio, no A/C, Keep heat, No Sunroof or manual, Manual steering, Manual windows, light weight door panels. Remove sound proofing under carpet, ditch rear seats. In stall light weight carpet over metal interior to give it a clean finished look, Two light weight racing buckets with roll bar.
#14
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Napoleon
BTW Racer-roni types. Taking out the underhood heater valve lets the car run way cooler. Just a suggestion. I'd suggest blocking the drivers side vent though.
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Originally posted by SidViscous
So skip, hows about a manual Suroof conversion.
So skip, hows about a manual Suroof conversion.
What reason would folks have to do this? Removing the motor and gutting the roof is normally all the racers will do. I suppose it would cut down on plastic gear replacment!