Possibly to remove shock towers with normal tools?
10-13-2003, 10:53 PM
#1
Three Wheelin'
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Possibly to remove shock towers with normal tools?
Im going to remove the engine from the bottom later this week. I have decided to drop the front suspension in one piece by disconnecting the shock towers at the camber plate. Can I use normal tools to remove them or do I need some special ones that I don't have?
Thanks
Christian
Thanks
Christian
10-13-2003, 11:36 PM
#2
Three Wheelin'
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I think you are good w/ normal tools, just make sure you mark the srews on the shocks so you can get them back in straight, that way you wont need an alginment, but still it wouldn't be a bad idea
10-13-2003, 11:57 PM
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Since you insist on dropping the engine out the bottom disconnect the a-arms from the strut at the ball joint. Just take out the cross bolt and give the a-arm a few wacks with a rubber mallet. Leave the a-arm on the cross member. Leave the struts on the car unless you have plans to change the shocks or springs.
Take note where the caster adjustment is on the rear a-arm bushings. A sketch or a picture is good enough. Leave the a-arms on the cross member until you get the x-member out from under the car. Then you can take them off to replace the engine mounts.
Also take the tie rods off at the spindle arms.
This way the only setting you have a chance of scewing up is the caster adjustment then not by much.
Yes you have to take the sway bar off first.
Yes you have to disconnect the steering link at the steering box. And the power steering hoses.
Take note where the caster adjustment is on the rear a-arm bushings. A sketch or a picture is good enough. Leave the a-arms on the cross member until you get the x-member out from under the car. Then you can take them off to replace the engine mounts.
Also take the tie rods off at the spindle arms.
This way the only setting you have a chance of scewing up is the caster adjustment then not by much.
Yes you have to take the sway bar off first.
Yes you have to disconnect the steering link at the steering box. And the power steering hoses.
10-14-2003, 12:16 AM
#4
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
SoCal, well I figure that I'll have to lower the X member to remove the engine from the top. PLus the tight space required to remove the bellhousing bolts, its all not to appealing to me. I figure I can remove the front suspension as a unit. Unbolt the struts from the strut towers, remove the brake lines, unbolt the steering U joint, PS lines from pump and cooler, motor mount fom motor, caster block from body, then the 4 bolts for the crossmember to body. Then drop everything.
Christian
Christian
10-14-2003, 12:27 AM
#5
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Another route it to leave the a-arms connected to the strut assy and just disconnect them from the crossmember. It's two bolts and took me about five minutes per side. You'll also have to disconnect the tie rod ends. Much easier then a realignment and brake bleed. I also pulled the bellhousing with the motor which was only the four bolts on the TT, two bolts for the clutch slave, and two bolts for the starter.
10-14-2003, 12:45 AM
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You don't have to remove the cross member to remove the engine from the top. I took off the sway bar and dropped the cross member down to hang on the suspension -- four large bolts. I did have to take the steering link off at the rack.
Did not disconnect the a-arms.
Did not disconnect the tie rods.
Did not disconnect the brake lines.
Did not disconnect the speedo cable.
This way I could bolt the cross member back on the car and roll the chassis around. And I didn't have to use a half ton of cinder blocks to support the car.
Leaving the bell housing on adds several inches to the forward clearence and may require the removal of the radiator and the headlight cross over linkage.
I found that I could lower the engine with the cross member an inch or so and get to the top back bolt on the bell housing. I agree that the four bolts on the torq tube would be quicker and may just try this the next time I have to take the engine out -- in about 10 years. Maybe by then I will have a lift and a 14 foot ceiling.
Did not disconnect the a-arms.
Did not disconnect the tie rods.
Did not disconnect the brake lines.
Did not disconnect the speedo cable.
This way I could bolt the cross member back on the car and roll the chassis around. And I didn't have to use a half ton of cinder blocks to support the car.
Leaving the bell housing on adds several inches to the forward clearence and may require the removal of the radiator and the headlight cross over linkage.
I found that I could lower the engine with the cross member an inch or so and get to the top back bolt on the bell housing. I agree that the four bolts on the torq tube would be quicker and may just try this the next time I have to take the engine out -- in about 10 years. Maybe by then I will have a lift and a 14 foot ceiling.
