My car has a tendency when first started to want to idle very low and die sometimes, but once it runs for about 10 seconds, it will never drop the idle that far again. After that and once warmed up, it does occasionally idle up to about 14-1500rpm, the "normal" being about 1000, which is about 50-100rpm too fast from what I've seen. I've been reading that this is the idle stabilizer valve sticking and that if you peck on it with a screwdriver that when the idle is running high that you can sometimes knock it loose (crud buildup over the years and just wearing out) and the idle will return to normal and that is the indication that it's the ISV. I plan on using my PCA $100 discount coupon next year to get me a new one and a bunch of assorted and various little parts that are now 20 years old in my car to replace.

 

you guys sound like you have some vacuum leaks. intermittent ones. not too horribly much to replace the system on the n/a, and the diagrams for both are under the hood. ISV problems generally make the car idle from 1500-2500 within a second or two.

-Michael-

 

when warm, i.e. hot, and running for a while,the idle goes from 1800 and lunges down to 400/500 and then to 1200 then continues to stray from exactly 1200 and drops like it wants to shut down or like the engine is turning slow and has a missfiring spark plug>>>but im guessing that its not a misfire because i figured it would never be able to get that high of rpm, and it would drop quicker. after it does this for a while it seems to come back to "normal" and slowly rev back up to 1800.

 

also i have the oil leaks and sometimes the antifreeze too. i read on a different site that this is typically the oil cooler seals. and the signs for this were brown foam in with coolant tank, and water in with the oil. i get the foam in the tank>>>>not a lot, just a little that sticks to the radiator cap. but i dont get the white chunks usually associated with water in the oil. is this still explaining what my problem is? i read at the same site that for the coolant leaks>>>>means that the water pump is going to go out. is this correct? my car has maybe 125000 miles on it and i do race on the street>>>tooooo many cocky honda boys around columbus! so i think theres oil slipping past the rings>>>>if the seals for the oil cooler(if thats my problem) are too expensive, or WAY too difficult of a task, then ill just get a new engine. is there any typical place where i would have a fuel leak? im not sure if its actually leaking but, im smelling gas lately. i cant seem to find any where that it is leaking. and does any one know a place to get a relatively cheap transmission? can a 968 six speed go in my car? ive read somewhere that the earlier cars had the trans made by borg warner, and its basically the same as in mustangs and camaros. I KNOW YOU CAN REALLY BANG ON THOSE! but can i fit one in my car? early 85

 

Kenny, you really need to do a structured testing plan on the car. There are things that you have to test and confirm before moving on to the next test point.

There is no short cut.

But you can do most of the testing with an ohm/volt meter and a test light.

Right now I can think of two things that may be causing the problems with the idle. One is that the large rubber J shaped duct is cracked at one of the vacuum hose connections or where the ends are attached to the air flow sensor and the throttle body. Could just be loose.

The other is the switch that is on the throttle butterfly. This switch closes just as the throttle does. It tells the electronic injection (DME) to shut off the injectors till the rpm's drop below about 1400-1600 rpms. If this switch is not working or is closing too soon, you much the problems you are recounting.

The temp sender to the DME can cause this problem too.

There is a booklet from Porsche just for testing the different DME's. The early 944's, the later 944's, the 951's and the 944S models. Call a local dealer and see if they can get you the one for your car.

With a little perseverance you can get this problem solved and have a decent running car.

 

Kenny, on second thought sell the car and get something that you can street race. The 944 is NOT that car.

 

well im building a svo mustang too>>>>>so when i get that running ill stop bangigng on the porsche>>>>>i know this car cant take the abuse like a mustang>>>>i already blew out third gear

 

Just stop street racing. Please.

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...hreadid=137540

Street racing is stupid. Take your car to the track. If you want to drag race, fine. Go to the track. If you want to road race, I'm sure there are plenty of DEs (driver education events) at Mid-Ohio. But don't street race.

Also, could you please not write one big long paragraph? Try using spaces or paragraphs where you are using ">>>>>" . It sure would make reading your posts easier.

 

FWIW...sounds like a bad vacuum line.

 

Dude, you're doing something wrong. Third gear just doesn't blow.

 

yeah... sell the car, buy a honda to 'beat' and 'street race'

-Michael-

 

Another parts car.

 

no..... the mustang can be beat on and take it, thats what ill drive hard. ive heard of third blowing out before if you drive slow and hold it in third it will usually stay>>>>>>the gears are chipped off

 

please, do us all a favor and sell the car, buy something else to abuse. theres a difference between abuse and hard driving... i drive my 944 hard every time, no transmission problems to speak of. you abuse cars... hence the problems. please sell it, or donate it to someone who will love it.

-Michael-

 

ill check it out
how simple or hard are the cooler seals to replace? how can you prevent them from going bad again?