Theft attempt /aka/************!!!!!!
#46
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Hey Z-
When you manually lock or unlock your doors (by pushing down the buttons), do your LED's go on and off? If I'm sitting in the car, and I press the electronic lock button on the console, my LED's start flashing, like the alarm has been activated.
When you manually lock or unlock your doors (by pushing down the buttons), do your LED's go on and off? If I'm sitting in the car, and I press the electronic lock button on the console, my LED's start flashing, like the alarm has been activated.
#51
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i dont think i was able to lock the doors with either the button or swithch with the door open. had to use the key.
a way to test it andy is to lock the doors with the window open. then open the door from the inside. if the alarm sounds, viola you are in luck.
a way to test it andy is to lock the doors with the window open. then open the door from the inside. if the alarm sounds, viola you are in luck.
#52
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No, I can't push the button down with the driver door open...it wont let you lock yourself out that way.
I am just trying to figure out how this alarm would prevent theft? With the doors locked, if someone climbs into a broken window, is the DME disabled, preventing starting completely, unless the door is un-locked via a key??
Leave it to Porsche!?
I am just trying to figure out how this alarm would prevent theft? With the doors locked, if someone climbs into a broken window, is the DME disabled, preventing starting completely, unless the door is un-locked via a key??
Leave it to Porsche!?
#53
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Here is how it worked in my mazda
if the alarm is activated the ignition is killed. the car wont start with the key. the only way to deactivate the alarm is by turning the key in the drivers door. now the fun part. the alarms on of switch was activated by the passenger door lock which was a slave to the drivers door. unlike the porsche where opening one door opens both.
here is how the python in the camaro works.
unless i lock the door with a remote clicker there is no ignition kill. if i lock the door with the key out of the ignition using the remote the anti theft is activated. the motor will not start with the key unless the remote unlocks the doors with the key out of the ignition.
I triggered the porsche's alarm like Z once by opening the trunk with the key. i think you have to wait a short time between locking the door and unlocking the trunk.
if the alarm is activated the ignition is killed. the car wont start with the key. the only way to deactivate the alarm is by turning the key in the drivers door. now the fun part. the alarms on of switch was activated by the passenger door lock which was a slave to the drivers door. unlike the porsche where opening one door opens both.
here is how the python in the camaro works.
unless i lock the door with a remote clicker there is no ignition kill. if i lock the door with the key out of the ignition using the remote the anti theft is activated. the motor will not start with the key unless the remote unlocks the doors with the key out of the ignition.
I triggered the porsche's alarm like Z once by opening the trunk with the key. i think you have to wait a short time between locking the door and unlocking the trunk.
#54
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It would be MUCH easier with a remote. Alarm goes off, push the remote button, all is cool again!
The factory alarm is FREE. Otherwise, I would go spend the money and get a keyless entry/remote alarm installed. Still, I would rather not have some shop run a bunch of wires all over the place, tapping into the battery.
The factory alarm is FREE. Otherwise, I would go spend the money and get a keyless entry/remote alarm installed. Still, I would rather not have some shop run a bunch of wires all over the place, tapping into the battery.
#55
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Lots of questions about the factory alarm. Let me see if I can help -
1. When the alarm is activated and triggered, it cuts ground to the DME relay until it is reset.
2. There are contact switches in the doors, one for the hood, and yes, one in the hatch. There should be a ground wire going to the passenger hatch strut. When it is 3/4 of the way extended, the piston in the strut will begin to contact the housing, causing a ground path. This should trigger the alarm.
3. You cannot lock the drivers door while it is open. It is to prevent you from locking the keys in the car.
4. Early alarms are activated with a key on the quarter panel, late ones activated with micro switches in the handle.
5. A common failure point is the alarm relay box (black 2 plug box by the DME). Open it up and check solder connections and copper tracers.
Kill Switches:
Here's specifically why I would not tap into the fuel pump circuit. Over time, switches will build corrosion and begin to wear out. The corrosion will increase the resistance going to the pump, and drop the voltage as well. If that voltage drops to 10v at the pump, you can reduce flow about 15%. Try blasting full boost down the front stretch of Mid Ohio and cut fuel 15%. Not good. Also, think of that same situation and accidentally bumping the switch. You'll have about 2 seconds of fuel until you suck the pressure out of the system. While that happens, you'll lean out enough to hurt parts. Most small switches are not ment to carry high current. This can pit the contacts and begin an intermittant cutout. Again, if that happens, you'll go lean.
Now.. for the 30 seconds of a thief cranking the car and trying to fill my oil pan with gas. Did you know the DME will shut off fuel after 3-4 seconds of cranking? Even if he cycled the punched out ignition a few times, it would not do much harm at all. Running too rich at 5900rpm is totally different than cranking the car at 300rpm with too much fuel.
Comments, concerns?
1. When the alarm is activated and triggered, it cuts ground to the DME relay until it is reset.
2. There are contact switches in the doors, one for the hood, and yes, one in the hatch. There should be a ground wire going to the passenger hatch strut. When it is 3/4 of the way extended, the piston in the strut will begin to contact the housing, causing a ground path. This should trigger the alarm.
3. You cannot lock the drivers door while it is open. It is to prevent you from locking the keys in the car.
4. Early alarms are activated with a key on the quarter panel, late ones activated with micro switches in the handle.
5. A common failure point is the alarm relay box (black 2 plug box by the DME). Open it up and check solder connections and copper tracers.
Kill Switches:
Here's specifically why I would not tap into the fuel pump circuit. Over time, switches will build corrosion and begin to wear out. The corrosion will increase the resistance going to the pump, and drop the voltage as well. If that voltage drops to 10v at the pump, you can reduce flow about 15%. Try blasting full boost down the front stretch of Mid Ohio and cut fuel 15%. Not good. Also, think of that same situation and accidentally bumping the switch. You'll have about 2 seconds of fuel until you suck the pressure out of the system. While that happens, you'll lean out enough to hurt parts. Most small switches are not ment to carry high current. This can pit the contacts and begin an intermittant cutout. Again, if that happens, you'll go lean.
Now.. for the 30 seconds of a thief cranking the car and trying to fill my oil pan with gas. Did you know the DME will shut off fuel after 3-4 seconds of cranking? Even if he cycled the punched out ignition a few times, it would not do much harm at all. Running too rich at 5900rpm is totally different than cranking the car at 300rpm with too much fuel.
Comments, concerns?
Last edited by Perry 951; 10-14-2003 at 02:30 PM.
#56
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Is the coil ground wire at the DME box the thickest of the SOLID GREEN wires?
Also, will a 30 Amp relay be robust enough to carry the current that runs through the starter exciter wire (the red one leading from the white connector by the brake booster)? If so, I'm thinking about hooking my keyless entry unit's starter kill to this wire.
Also, will a 30 Amp relay be robust enough to carry the current that runs through the starter exciter wire (the red one leading from the white connector by the brake booster)? If so, I'm thinking about hooking my keyless entry unit's starter kill to this wire.
#58
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Originally posted by Perry 951
Yes... 30amps will be fine. Although.... it does not prevent them from pop starting it.![Frown](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Yes... 30amps will be fine. Although.... it does not prevent them from pop starting it.
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Originally posted by Perry 951
Coil ground is pin 1 on the DME. (thick green)
Coil ground is pin 1 on the DME. (thick green)
#59
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Splice it in an area that is hard to find. If someone knows a little about these cars, and wants to steal it, they'll check wires by the DME. If an obvious splice is right there in the open, they can trace the wires rather quickly, or cut and tie them together.
Make it look stock.
Make it look stock.
#60
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Hey, what happened to the removing the steering wheel idea? Someone shoudl be able to rig a quick disconnect setup to the stock wheel... I'd love to see someone get away without a wheel!