S2/Turbo Fog Lamp Bulb?
10-09-2003 | 09:54 AM
#2
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 5,159
Likes: 1
From: Minneapolis, USA
It is very easy to replace. If it is the fog bulb what you want is a 55 watt H3 bulb. Some guys use a 100 watt bulb but then the light doesn't work very well as a fog. 100 watts is so bright that it really lights up the fog water dropplets and the light backscatters into your eyes and ruins night vision. So go 55 watt.
Just remember not to touch the bulb glass with your bare finger. The finger oil will create a hot spot and crack the glass.
Just remember not to touch the bulb glass with your bare finger. The finger oil will create a hot spot and crack the glass.
10-09-2003 | 10:34 AM
#3
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 2,020
Likes: 1
HI Michael,
ok, IceShark is right however.
let me tell you a little story of how it took me 3 hours to replace the side light bulb, which is in the same unit.....
The quick way is:
1> remove the 2 screws holding the clear plastic covers
2> remove the 4 screws holding the light unit
3> separate the unit and replace bulb
HOWEVER, the screws tend to get corroded, they tend to be rounded off and as it goes into plastic, there is no way to get WD40/PLUSGAS onto the threads, we ended up, drilling the screws out and fitting differnt fitting.
IF you have an easy job make sure you coat the heads and threads with lithium greese and DO NOT OVER tighten them. also a good way to protect them is to fit the plastic clear Lens covers to them, to deflect the salt road spray
good luck !
ok, IceShark is right however.
let me tell you a little story of how it took me 3 hours to replace the side light bulb, which is in the same unit.....
The quick way is:
1> remove the 2 screws holding the clear plastic covers
2> remove the 4 screws holding the light unit
3> separate the unit and replace bulb
HOWEVER, the screws tend to get corroded, they tend to be rounded off and as it goes into plastic, there is no way to get WD40/PLUSGAS onto the threads, we ended up, drilling the screws out and fitting differnt fitting.
IF you have an easy job make sure you coat the heads and threads with lithium greese and DO NOT OVER tighten them. also a good way to protect them is to fit the plastic clear Lens covers to them, to deflect the salt road spray
good luck !
10-09-2003 | 10:56 AM
#4
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 5,159
Likes: 1
From: Minneapolis, USA
Yeah, Adrian is right about problems with the 4 screws that hold the lens to the housing. If you haven't taken them out before or coated with grease/anti-seize you may have a problem.
Make sure the phillips head screw driver you use has a clean and crisp point, not an old abused point. Take it easy pulling these out. There are brass or steel bosses cast into the plastic/fiberglass rear housing. the last thing you want to do is break those out. And the boxes cost a small fortune to replace, $100's each, so you will be facing lots of rehab efforts to save your old boxes if you foul up the screw removal.
Make sure the phillips head screw driver you use has a clean and crisp point, not an old abused point. Take it easy pulling these out. There are brass or steel bosses cast into the plastic/fiberglass rear housing. the last thing you want to do is break those out. And the boxes cost a small fortune to replace, $100's each, so you will be facing lots of rehab efforts to save your old boxes if you foul up the screw removal.
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10-09-2003 | 01:12 PM
#8
Pro
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 725
Likes: 0
From: A2, MI
Is it possible to replace the housings without dropping the lower part of the bumper?... My turn signals were rusted out, and hence I need to replace those housings, along with my fog light housing that isn't healthy as well. The nuts from the back sticking out into the socket are fine... it's just the electrical lines... is it possible to pull them and put new one's in without removing the lower section?
Thanks,
Sach
Thanks,
Sach
